Great work and excellant write up mate very impressed . Maybe u can come down to helP with my engine pull too lol
Another tip for cracking the injector cap screws is to use a proper size screwdriver with a full length tang. It's not as brutal as a full impact driver, but does the job just as well. -load rail in vice or secure appropriately -install screwdriver -apply torque in the 'undo' direction ('lefty-loosie' for the newbs out there) -give screwdriver a sharp tap at the same time. This shocks the fastener, applies pressure into the phillips head groove and undoes it also. I always do this for the most stubborn of screws.
Update: My god thats dirty Well after getting the plenum off the reality is an absolute mess. Grease and crap everywhere from a previous can cover leak. Problem was how to clean down with the lower plenum exposed. After a little bit of thinking, We used to use a can placed over the old Carbies to clean the motor down. So what was needed is a cover over the lower plenum. The new gasket would make the perfect template to make a cover. Marked out on a piece of sheet alluminium. Cutting out alluminium can be dangerous. Evidence of a bit of claret, and not the wine variety Next was to put a "gasket" material on the underside of the cover. I used a leftover piece of vinyl. Quick spray of "quick grip" on both surfaces. Put them together on a flat suface. Wait till dry and cut around the template with a sharp knife. Open the bolt holes up, and your all done Bolt the cover down by hand pressure. Do not use a spanner, or over tighten Tighten the bolts as per a head bolt (centre and outwards) The bolts from the Coil packs are ideal size for this. Seeing as I had my injectors out I had to wrap the little bits of rag with gladwrap to stop the wick effect dripping water into the cylinder From there it was full steam ahead. Up her with the degreaser. Drowning the Cat Ran out of light to get a clean pic of the engine bay.
Thanks Arvin. I'll get the old injectors to you after ZedFest Thats the reason why I do these to help others Hahah . love to Andrew. Will get enough practice next weekend. Have to help a mate pull one motor, and transplant another (2x removal and 1 fit) Hahahh. I have a full sized sledge too if the bitch doen't do as its told
Was that, or cover the lower plenum with gladwrap Just didn't want to take the chance. It'll come in handy as well at a later date.
Nice idea on the plenum blanking plate. I was a bit lazy and used a few layers of 50mm wide masking tape. Wait till you get to the fun bit of cleaning the stuck gasket & goo off the heads when you remove the cam covers. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Dean, really looking forward to all that. Thinking of removing the EGR valve, while i'm there. Have learned heaps about these cars since meeting you at Goulburn. Not bad for 12 months.
The plate is a pretty good idea ill say that the hosing down of engine, yeha i wouldnt say thats on my things to do list :/ seen too many connectors get filled with water and fry shit
My biggest concern would be oil/grease/etc washing into relays and connectors. Clean water shouldn't do any harm if it dries out ok...
Thanks. If the detail i put in helps someone else then its all good. Battery not connected and the build will take awhile so the stuff gets a chance to dry out. Regarding hosing down, I was told if you water it enough it'll grow an extra 2 cylinders That won't be a problem and all connectors will be checked and cleaned during assembly. Compressor + visual inspestion.
Update: Throttle linkage Disassembly. I sourced this from (93daytona) on http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=135419&highlight=linkage This applies to the bling build I am doing. Thanks for the info 93daytona. :zlove: I had to disassemble the linkage to paint the front part white to match the plenum. In this How-To, I'll describe how to disassemble the center linkage assembly. Tools Needed: (2) 12mm wrenches or (2) 12mm sockets w/ ratchets or a combination of both Heavy Pliers A center punch appropriately sized to punch out the roll-pin T15 (iirc) Torx driver Needle Nose pliers Drill and Drill Bits Step 1 - Remove end nuts and cams Using a pair of 12mm wrenches (easiest) or a wrench and ratchet, remove the two 12mm nuts from the shaft ends, as well as the cams which they hold on. Place one wrench (or ratchet) on one nut, and loosen the other. To loosen the second nut, use a heavy set of pliers to hold the cam on the other end while you break the nut loose. DO NOT try to grip the cams in the center of the linkage to prevent rotation, as they bend fairly easily. Likewise, do not use the throttle stop to prevent rotation while braking the second nut loose, as the tab will again bend. Step 2 - Unhook Springs There are two springs in the linkage, each of them having one end hooked around a cam, and the other end hooked around a post. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers (or and ice pick), unhook the spring from around the cam, then unhook it from the post. The post that the second end of the springs are hooked to has a plastic spacer and a c-clip. Remove the clip with needle-nose pliers, then remove the spacer. Step 3 - Remove roll pin This is the trickiest part, and will be greatly aided by having a punch of the correct diameter to drive the pin out. If the pin is stubborn like they sometimes can be, you can drill off one end, push it through, and replace it. Take note of each end of the pin. Typically one end is flared more than the other, so this will tell you which way to drive the pin to remove it. Once the pin is removed, the cam assembly is free to spin on the shaft. Step 4 - Drive out bearing retainer. The last part holding the assembly together is the retainer shown below. Behind the retainer is a bearing which has a very tight friction fit with the shaft. It will not slide on the shaft without significant force and/or heat. On the other end of the linkage bracket, the shaft passes through a bushing that has pretty close tolerances, but slides freely on the shaft. By pushing out the bearing retainer, the bearing and shaft can slide out of the bracket, and the cam assembly will slide off at the same time. The retainer has a pretty tight friction fit, but removes quite easily. Take one of the 12mm nuts your removed in step 1 and thread it back onto the end of the rod opposite the bearing. Stand the assembly up in a vice, with the jaws opened just enough so the retainer will not contact them when driven out. Place a 12mm Deep socket over the nut, and give the socket a few firm hits. The retainer should push out of it's recess, allowing the shaft and bearing to be removed. Remove the shaft and the cam assembly, and the linkage is disassembled. Step 5 (optional) - Remove the Bushing Bracket The last step is optional. If you have a need to remove the bushing end of the bracket, it is only held in with 2 T15 (?) Torx bolts. Remove them, and the bracket comes off. More to come after the painting.
Update: Water bypass Well after pulling the plenum off the engine I got a shock at what I saw. That swelling of the water pipe is not the nipple on the end of the pipe. This is a disaster waiting to happen. I had already replaced one of the pipes I could get at, just after I had purched the car. It was split and I notices a rusty water mark on the drivers side cam cover Took an hr and a half to get the old pipe off and the new one on. Very hard to do while the plenum is on the car. Take note of the rusry/rotton pipe on the right hand side. After removing one of the pipes this is the crudd that came out of the pipe. There must be some crap settled in the block of the motor. These are 20+ year old cars guys. For those that have not done a water bypass think very seriously about it. One of those small pipes burst and is all over rover. It either becomes very expensive to repair or your a proud owner of a "Parts Car"
Great work graham, love the attention to detail and well thought out processes! Oh and...Flush that block!!
Update: Water bypass Part 2 These are the rear hard pipes that feed the heater. As they are after we removed them from the motor. Only 4x 10mm bolts to get off, but what a pain to get at. Kitty swallowed a socket and small extention while removing these pipes. It got stuck on the top of the gearbox, we had to jack the car up to get it out. Bit of a light hit on the wire brush and they clean up quite well. Kitty only being an NA, the bypass is easy. Either cap or cut-n-braze the small off take pipes. Different on a turbo as the small pipes deliver water to the turbos. After a coat of paint. What a difference a bit of time and effort make. Fitted back in place. A whole lot more room to move after the EGR delete. These hard pipes are old and quite rusted out so they will have to be replaced at a later date. But for now they will safly do the job.
That engine flush is so going to be done. I will probably get it done professionally as they have better gear than me.
