Was referring to an earlier post and with a "LOL" at the end I think everyone's TWD gets a workout on said cruises :biggrin::zlove:
What foam to you use PEX, just ordinary adhesive back strip from clark rubber ? (about 1cm wide ?) What cooling system specs PEX ? Radiator/shroud/hard pipe etc ? Isnt it funny we spend the big money on our cars and neglect things like cheap foam, I'm not saying its the answer but Nissan engineers keep proving that they have an idea, if its there its for a reason. Could various opinons be because of engine condition and humidity although ambiant temps have an effect we tend to get higher humidity in Queensland, wouldnt higher humidity assist cooling ? I hope I get the results Pex does, hes one cool cucumber that car should be cucumber green.
It was from Supercheap and was in a retail blister back and was sticky on one side only about 1 inch wide. Basic Specs - Koyo Rad from zx2nv GB, all shrouds and underbody trays, Veilside C1 bar with vented nose panel and FMIC. Auto trans cooler in radiator not used, and aftermarket cooler installed and then moved to drivers side SMIC location. Sealed all stray paths that air might normall escape (AKA foam), Srtainless Radiator air guide (Full length). Surprisingly, bonnet made noo real difference to coolant temps, but it did drastically lower air temps underbonnet. This made a big difference to city driving for me (Trans cooler relocation). Most people just whack a trans cooler in front of the A/C condenser, but preheat your radiator airflow and it can't cool your coolant as well . With regard to the humidity, I am no expert on this subject, but I would assume that humidity would only have a bearing with regard to temperature variations in lines with evaporation rates, ie. high humidity = lower evaporation rates, thus feels hotter because of less evaporative cooling. . Since the cooling system is closed, I don't think it matters. Maybe if there is a difference, it would not be a lot. I'm more than happy to stand corrected on that one though
Humidity shouldn't have a bearing on the cooling capacity as it's closed as Pexypoo said. I'd be checking the radiator and cooler for things like plastic bags and newspaper... I'd also be pulling the thermostat out for a lookee see. I don't trust them.
Thanks Pex, The thought on humidity was that it was denser and there fore had more mass to absorb heat giving better cooling in similar ambiant temperatures. I have gone with the koyo also, as I have larger SMIC my tranny cooler will be going in the usual spot dont think it will be a problem with out a FMIC, thanks for the lead on the foam. I have also ordered from coz a lower shroud, my order should be leaving within a week Apparently there a template floating around for a full length radiator guide, any one got a template i can borrow ? If I get the results you have i will be stoked.
Nearly forgot, I have one of my WPOP's, but I have a UDP also. so I should have roughly OEM spec circulation per RPM
Im sticking with my stock balancer for now, maybe a ross UAS one latter slightly underdriven and lighter. No lower radiator hard pipe ?
My cooling spec is almost identical to Pex and I experienced a max of 87 today with A/C on in the middle of the day with mainly city driving. Much warmer in Townsville than Brisbane too. I've also done the block deflashing as mentioned by ltd (except the mystery galley) but the engine runs no better or worse than before the rebuild.
How much of a difference would a lack of front splashguard make? As I havent got one at the moment and am having troulbe finding my cause of overheating. Also is the radiator meant to have a lower and upper fan shroud or jsut an upper one? Does the lower one if it exists also make much difference?
Both make a difference. Without the lower fan shroud you are limiting the effect the fan will have pulling air through the radiator. This will have more effect in my experience, but I believe the friont splashguard also makes a difference - although I didn't really notice much when I fitted it. Cheers, Peter
