Peter .... TWD adjustment/recalibration to say, 100degrees, may be done by turning the trimpot a poofteenth anticlockwise. Run datascan during heat-soak/cool-down to compare values as you adjust the TWD's trimpot so LED comes ON at your preferred value. Refer TWD calibration table in Tech Section for more info or PM me for more assistance. NB: TWD's were calibrated @ 93 ~ 95 degrees. My TWD flickers ON during spirited driving: overtaking, air-con on, hill climbing etc. IMO, There is nothing abnormal with your cooling system. :zlove:
ONI TYPE CUT OUT NOSE PANEL: .... ... peter, it may be too far down the track but i have an ONI nose panel amongst my collection ... i could bring it to warwick for you to trial ... if that would serve any purpose ....
I had similar issues...... turned out to be the std cowl that I refitted after the larger radiator install. Did you cut the cowls depth back so that the fan blades wernt buried inside the cowl ? I cut it back to the first rib from the engine side, this greatly increased airflow through the radiator. Side note: That numberplate aint helpin the FMIC !!! ( or the radiator) Low and angled back to help airflow is the Gee Oh ! Kingy
yep .... has been posted somewhere in the past ... .. in tHREE possible places .. 1. the coonabaraban zedfest thread .... on ONI'S zed ... 2. pics of ONI'S zed from 2-3 years back ... 3. under threads of BLACK BAZ's "nose collection" ... good luck with your search(es) ...
if you cannot find it ... whip me your email address .. .. will see if i can find a pic in my mess .... .. BB yet to post a pic .... doh ....!!!!! EDIT ...EPIC FAIL ... LOOK AT MY SIG PIC ...!!!!!! ...
OMG are you joking me is that it in your sig DOH !!!! Can you post a BIG one up, a picture of the nose panel that is BIG ? Thanks Baz
Now you need to make up some panels to stop the air spilling into the wheel area. You can't run the guard liners with your wheels and flared guards, so you need something else to stop the air avoiding the radiator. A vertical panel from the edge of the radiator opening forward to the front bar opening would suffice. Start with some cardboard to work out the shape...
The OEM thermostat opening temp is 76.5 degrees. It is fully open at 81-82 degrees. Really, if you see temps significantly higher than that, then the heat exchange is insufficient, either because there is insufficient air flow or insufficient coolant flow. This is overly simplified, as there could be a dozen or more causes of these things. Obviously driving conditions will cause temporary spikes and dips etc etc. I think if you are getting into the 90s regularly during normal driving then something needs attention. If you get into the 90's during cruises and hill climbs on hot days with the air-con running, well that's to be expected as I mentioned earlier there will be insufficient heat exchange able to occur for that short period. Once you back off, the temps should fall back to the low 80s
Correction Greg: 85 - 95 degrees is ideal operating temp. :biggrin: Actual temp will depend on ambient air temp, speed, load etc.
Thanks, I'll have a look. See comment below the pic - numberplate is now mounted higher up, no longer blocking airflow to the top FMIC. Cheers, Peter
Thermostat is still fully open at 82 degs and I stand behind my comments that if you run in the 90s regularly during normal driving then there is an impairment in the cooling system. A gold coast hinterland cruise in Summer is not what I call "normal driving conditions" especially when the person up front knows the roads LOL
Correct... That is the minimum desired operating temp. Wrong buddy. What's that got to do with the subject?
I had been considering installing ducts from each side of the intercoolers to the radiator, but your suggestion is better. I had thought of putting ducts here: Straight, vertical guides from the edges of the open space in the front bar would be a simpler solution and more effective (perhaps starting behind the IFMIC itself). Cheers, Peter
Indeed I also agree pex is wrong here. It's largely dependent on the outside temperature... If it's cool outside (20c or less) the coolant temperature without AC usually sits around 80-85c. As soon as the airconditioning is turned on, this will jump up 87-90c even on a cool day. Without AC on a 30+ degree day you can expect 90c+ on regular driving even without AC. I've seen low 100's when driving all day in 30c+ heat and AC and there's no reason that should cause any issues unless you're running no glycol and the boiling point of your engine coolant is too low. My block has been fully reworked and all excess flashing removed, coolant jackets bored and additionally the 'mystery' coolant gallery has been opened up through the head gasket (as discovered by JP). I run a koyo radiator with a pretty much perfect cooling system with no front mount intercooler and a nose panel guide for the radiator.
32 degrees here yesterday. I enjoyed 82-83 degrees coolant temps all day long. Aircon will add some temperature to coolant for sure, normally 3-4 degrees. If you are getting 100 degree coolant temps with highway driving on a 35 degree day then "something" is not right. Everyone can think I am as wrong as they want. The worst I have seen on my Zed on the highway is a coolant temp of 87 degrees (driving from Ipswich to out to Dalby). Ambient temps 39 degrees and Air con running flat out. That was also with the standard bonnet. I think I hold the record as the forum member with the most dodgy cooling system when I joined. It is the most researched area of the car for me. Including extensive testing of my bonnet. One other thing I did is to replace the foam that is in between the radiator and the frame it surrounds. The original foam will either be degraded or completely gone reducing the seal between the radiator and the frame. This allows hot engine air to recirculate back to the front of the radiator and be drawn through again, thus elevating your coolant temps in low speed driving. Just one other small example of airflow that I mentioned earlier that I've not heard others talk about. Any one cooling system degradation may not make any noticeable difference, but over the years all the little things can accumulate and cause noticeable temperature increases. So, you can replace as many water pumps, clutch fans and thermostats as you like, de-fin galleries and water jackets, flush the block, etc etc it may not fix the problems. Look outside the square a little. This is a subject close to my heart, so sorry if I'm a little passionate about it.
