High Coolant Temps - Can't Explain Why

Discussion in 'Technical' started by OZ-300, Oct 19, 2008.

  1. OZ-300

    OZ-300 Godfather

    Looking for some help - My Godfather TT has high coolant temps and I am running out of options:

    In terms of mods, I have a pod filter and front mount.

    It has the UAS top radiator guide and the stock bottom guide is also fitted.

    I measured temps today using datascan. Ambient temp was about 30 degrees.

    Once up to temp it averaged 85-92 degrees, and increased going up hills. I can't work out why it is so high. If I turn on the AC is further increases about 3-4 degrees. If I remove the centre panel it reduces about 3-4 degrees.

    While driving uphill today with climate control on, centre panel on, it registered 99 degres. Max it got to was 105 degrees 15 mins after having switched the motor off.

    I have a new thermostat (tested before fitting - all good), new water pump, new 56 mm PWR radiator, new thermo clutch, all new coolant hoses including under plenum, new radiator cap. (I also have new heater core and new heater hoses, and just about all electrical connectors have been replaced - including to the CTS connector.)

    Coolant system maintains pressure for at least 15 mins after turning engine off. Also, after turning off, coolant temp will increase up to 7 degrees over the next 15 mins or so.

    I will replace the CTS but really don't think this is reporting incorrectly.

    What else could it be ??


    Cheers,

    Peter
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2008
  2. ZEDZY

    ZEDZY Active Member

    Do you have all your shrouds in place?
     
  3. OZ-300

    OZ-300 Godfather

    Yep, radiator and bottom radiator shrouds are fitted.

    Cheers,

    Peter

     
  4. AndyMac

    AndyMac Better than you

    You running an UD pulley peter? You may not be pushing enough water if everything else is in tip top condition.

     
  5. ZYTRAM

    ZYTRAM Formerly known as martini_Z

    Are you noticing any coolant loss at all from the overflow? Could be a small leak from where the hoses join, just enough to lose pressure and cause the temps to rise...
     
  6. K-zed

    K-zed Secret Squirrel

    Not too high

    Those temps are pretty normal although a few degrees less across the range is what my Zed has always run at. The FMIC will be increasing your temps.
     
  7. OZ-300

    OZ-300 Godfather

    I am running a standard pulley, although an option might be an overdrive pulley.

    I haven't noticed any leaks, but haven't done a lot of k's since replacing the hoses etc. I'll take it for a long drive this evening and check levels afterwards.

    Cheers,

    Peter


     
  8. OZ-300

    OZ-300 Godfather

    I added the 56mm radiator to compensate for the FMIC and would have liked/expected a bit more headroom
    than what I have. I don't like it that the TWD comes on during normal driving.

    Cheers,

    Peter


     
  9. zx299

    zx299 Well-Known Member

    Heat soak....

    it is normal for temps to increase after the motor is stopped. Oil also cools the engine and once the motor stops running the oil cooling ceases, allowing all the heat in the engine block & heads to transfer to the coolant.

    Have you only recently fitted the FMIC ? Reduced air flow HAS to make a difference.
     
  10. IB

    IB ?????

  11. OZ-300

    OZ-300 Godfather

    Yes Ian, I fitted this before taking it for a run on the weekend.

    Cheers,

    Peter

     
  12. nemz

    nemz nemz cam: active

    those temps dont sound that out of place? ideal running temp is about 86 degree's afaik so with a bit of throttle you would easially see 90's upto 100, if your car is constantly running over 100 then i would start to worry ^_^ imho
     
  13. brisz

    brisz Well-Known Member

    I think the 3 -4 degree drop with centre panel removed is the clue, reduced air flow with the FMIC is the cause, and I would take a guess particularly at lower city speeds.

    If you subtract 3-4 degrees from your readings there fairly normal, just means you have a little less head room for cooling system degredation and higher ambiant temperatures.

    Maybe a well vented cetre panel and a TWD (IMHO all Z32 TT should have).

    I have being playing with the idea of a centre panel fully cut out with like a open weave shade cloth material covering :p
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2008
  14. brisz

    brisz Well-Known Member


    http://www.polynet.com.au/index96e7.html?page_id=121
     
  15. hpcoolahan

    hpcoolahan back to boost ...yay

    Totally agree
    Operating temp is about 83-84 stock i think.
    With a FMIC that would have to raise the temp because of a more restricted air flow , but plenty of guys run a FMIC without problems.
    Mabye when you Replaced the hoses and such you might still have an air-pocket in there ???
    Mine always sits between 83 - 89 going up and down with the thermostat.
    Might hit 95=98 after it sits for a while and heat soak takes effect on a hot day.Cools down as soon as you start it up and get moving again.
    Is your coolant always full the next morning when you pop the rad cap??

    Cheers and good luck
    Patrick
     
  16. OZ-300

    OZ-300 Godfather

    From memory, Geoff (ONI) had something similar. It was a centre panel that was almost just a frame, i.e. the middle cut out, with mesh and a Nissan logo. I think he used it for drags and track.

    Cheers,

    Peter

    with most of
     
  17. Drozzer

    Drozzer New Member

    Also agree

    Yes these temps do sound pretty normal, specially when you have a FMIC, mine also stays mid 80's without a FMIC.

     
  18. OZ-300

    OZ-300 Godfather

    Radiator stays full Patrick.

    I can't help but think that there's something else. Most things in the cooling system are near new and tested (as well as it can be). I have a much larger radiator than stock. The front bar has a much larger opening than stock. The engine is running very smoothly and producing good power. The only negative is the FMIC which I feel should be offset by the larger radiator and bigger front bar.:confused:

    [​IMG]
    Note: number plate is now mounted higher than in this pic and no longer obstructs (See my avatar).

    If I can't reduce the temps by about 5 degrees, and probably even if I can, I will fit an accurate temp gauge in addition to the TWD I already have.


    Cheers,

    Peter

     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2008
  19. hpcoolahan

    hpcoolahan back to boost ...yay

    One other thing , if you have modded your motor , has a tune been done , mabye its running a bit leaner and causing the higher temps,, just a thought??

    Cheers
    Patrick
     
  20. OZ-300

    OZ-300 Godfather

    The only modding I'm aware of is the exhaust - 3" through to tips including cats, FMIC and POD filter. Still running stock boost (ends up being ~9.5 lbs after these mods) and producing around 220 RWKW. So may have something else done. :confused:

    Cheers,

    Peter

     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2008

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