Very nice beaver Must be excited hey? P.S. where is the mandatory shot of u or someone sitting in the engine bay
Yes Excited in a way, but now that I?ve seen what 13 years of built up crap looks like, I feel slightly less excited. I can also see any number of photo opportunities in the weeks to come.
What brand engine stand is that and how much was it? I don't like mine as it was recommended for weights greater than the VG but it doesn't look as rigid as yours and mine sags.
Got the engine stand (2000kg)from a guy on ebay. Cost $119, pick up. http://myworld.ebay.com.au/warehousing_pro
Finally some progress on my rebuild. Dontex @ trade place vermont owned by warren taylor, has the motor as of today, joe imbesi works there, he will be doing the build. Hopefully it will be ready before years end. I'll have some pics of the progress for view later.
Slight change off plan! Well this build started off as a stock rebuild, but things have changed a little. I was talking to Joe imbesi after he stripped down the engine, and his comment was, after seeing the bottom end, that I wouldn't have to rebuild it because it was still in top condition, and only the heads needed some attention, valve grind and guides ect. I thought about this, and it was tempting to leave it as it was, less expensive sounded good , and he assured me that a stock bottom end could handle 300kw at the wheels no problems. But seeing as this is the only time I want to have the engine out, in the foreseeable future, touch wood, I have decided to go forged rods and pistons, to go with the new Gt2560r's TTz side mounts extrude honed uas mannies and 555's and SS 2.5'' exhaust, 350rwk is now my goal.
id throw in a ARP main stud kit, they are reasonable priced. Get the crank crack tested and nitrided too. Sorry if im telling you stuff you already know
Thats cool Yes the crank is being tested, not sure about nitriding, I went for the nissan bolts, thought about the arp kit, but I was assured the nissan head bolts would do the job, no probs. As I said earlier the bottom end was in pretty good nick, and i was advised to leave it as it was, if I was really keen, he would replace the rings only and that?s all, but he was happy to do what ever I wanted. But when I said forged pistons and rods, he asked how much rwkw I wanted, I said somewhere round 300, he said straight out this engine will handle that no probs on stock internals, as will most good nick vg30 TT engines, and then said If I really wanted to put a new bottom end in go first over size 87.25 nissan pistons. Forged I his book was for the big hp boys, and racing. Besides where could I use 300rwk on a public road? This made sense, and I would save quite a bit off cash also, but I didn't listen, I started to see 350rwk and went forged eagle rods with 87.5 2nd OS wiseco pistons, If we don?t like the look off the pistons I may go Je, the whole thing will be balanced as a rotation mass as normal, the water galleries are being cleared off cast run, and I really hope I made the right decision going forged, time will tell.
yea ok mate. i meant the studs that hold the main bearing caps in place, Im sure the spec you have listed is more than capable of handling 350rwkw. Best of luck with your build, and its good to see someone else going down the same road as me.
part view Finally have the goodies to finish the build, took 72 hours from the states to oz, and 13 days after landing I have them Nothing more will be done untill the new year as far as the build goes.
Looking forward to seeing it all together... & to see what power it makes. She'll be one super-clean, mean machine :zlove:
can you let us know how you go fitting the turbos with the provided kit. ive heard that the LHD kits need clocking and new actuator brackets made up... are they the gt28r or the gt28rs?.. ps AWESOME WORK so far
