Update time! Yay! Some good news, and some PITA news. We'll start with the happy stuff first. Spaced the drivers side mount and redid the pass side (it was wonky anyway). Now I have clearance for my new sump. It's nowhere near as much as it looks. Probably about 4mm at the centre, and tapers up to about 8mm. Engine sits nice and level now Got some rad hoses sorted for the EWP. I got a little too enthusiastic with the grider removing the stupid little brackets off the hardpipe in the picture. Ended up holing the pipe Don't have a spare so I'll go down to super cheap and see what hoses I can find As I'm too tight to spend $200 on anodised spanners for doing up AN fittings I improvised Lube the fitting up. The guy at the speedshop said to use ARP assembly lube. Get your nice hose Push it in with a lot of grunting and effort. I actually found the -10AN fittings easier to get in than the -8AN I'm confident that they will take 300PSI like they say they will. Don't know why Speedflow say not to use them for main oil systems, but Earls, Russel etc don't have a problem with it... I used this stuff on all the threaded joints as it looks nicer than thread tape. Oil system, or complicated shitfight as I like to call it, is all piped up now. I think it might run a little warm in traffic Biggest fan I can fit is a 14". May be able to fit 2 12" if I try real hard. The stupid metal reo bar sits real low too. Now we start with the PITA section... Tried to cut my exhaust gaskets. Transfered the shape from the flange, cut it out ok with some tin snips but couldn't cut the holes. I tried a ball pein hammer, drill press which wrapped the gasket around the drill, and a dremel with a tungsten carbide bit which ended in pain and blood. I've decided to ring up Nissan tomorrow... Now for a big PITA problem. Since I've raised the engine a tad on the pass side it's rotated and now the rocker cover touches the clutch master and is now bending it I thought I'd cut up my spare rocker cover to see if I could clearance it a touch. Really isn't enough room Cam caps get in the way. If I can't get a shorter master I can get a Willwood floor mount pedal with master cylinder and reservoir for about $100. Then I can pretend I have a race car Next PITA thing... I chucked on the old purple people eater bonnet that has the dirty great hole in it. The standard intake piping clashes with the main brace that runs down each side. It's the one part I REALLY don't want to cut. The standard pipe is full of ridges and what not, I will try and source a silicone one and see how that goes.
I know it's not ideal and you dont want to, but why not drop the crossmember about 10mm, shouldn't upset the chassis too much and will fix the issues you have now the engine is aligned properly.
Thought has crossed my mind... And it would solve a hell of a lot of problems in one hit. I'll look into it. One thing I don't want to have to mod is the steering shaft thing.
How much more room do you need, I think the steering uni will slide a good 5-10mm and still be ok. From the pics, that is about all you would need. The crossmember bolts should be good up to 10mm aswell, sway bar can stay where it is, at this stage it is probably a good option.
Exhaust gaskets sorted. Garrmax at Brendale had them on the shelf $36.95 for a full set of 8 They have 2 left now... Part number D6060 They also had head gaskets. If found a mob in the states that sell them but don't seem to ship overseas Actually more expensive too...
for those fittings on the oil coolers, do you really not need to have a clamp aswell?? just lube up the fitting and push it on and itll gold 300psi??
Didn't ask for a price. Are you pulling the heads off yours? Shop is about 20mins away. I'm sure they could post them to you if you want them.
Apparently... Once it's up to the second barb you CANNOT pull them apart. You have to cut them off. Some of the instructions for the pushlock fittings explicitly state that you MUST NOT use clamps. Weird, but hey, they make it.
Quick update. Tried lowering the crossmember 10mm or so. Still fouls on the clutch master, it would need to drop another 15mm or so to clear Stupid engine. I've got 3 choices at the moment. 1) Get a TT master if it is actually shorter, I'd prefer this option 2) Get a R33 Skyline GTS-T master. I know these are quite a lot shorter, but the bolts are in the wrong spot. 3) Get a Wilwood seperate pedal and master. There would be a bit of mucking about to get this to work, probably slightly more than making the R33 master work... Picked up my gaskets, look just like they said they would Also got a filter adapter for the AFM. It was a adapter for a '99 WRX of all thing. It tapers the diameter down a bit, I might just try and find a pod designed for the '99 WRX instead Got some more radiator hoses, just need a joiner then that is all sorted. One off a commodore and one off a I'm not sure car, no sticker on it and nothing on the label. About $20 each and have good length. Found a nice elbow at Autobarn that fits my throttle, a Turbosmart branded one. $120 though!! I didn't buy it surprisingly enough. Couldn't get one big enough at Supercrap either I must be the only person who wants silicone that big Off to ebay I go... I may keep the crossmember lowered 10mm, it gives the throttle inlet quite a lot more room. I'll make a final decision once I get some silicone to play with. If it saves me from cutting that support, it was worth doing. I can't see 10mm having a huge effect on the suspension geometry, I don't plan on dropping the Zed on it's balls either.
999automotive at Beaudesert road, cooper plains,behind goodyear, they will sort out your silicone hose issues. While your over there, drop into NPC, nicks performance clutches on boundary road Archerfeild, see if they can help with the master. And while your around the corner from the workshop, come and finish my car
Some good news Some of you might remember me moping around the Christmas party on Sat night due to some rumours that QLD transport have changed the rules and aren't going to allow engines with more cylinders than originally offered by the manufacturer to be registered. Well I rang QLD transport this morning, spoke to a person in Registrations and she hadn't heard of it. Spoke to a guy in QLD Transport's Safety and Modification section, he hadn't heard of it. Spoke to a Approved Persons mod plater guy and he hadn't heard of it either.... I also went through all the legislation I could find on the matter, nothing in there too. So we're in the clear so far The Mod Plate guy comes highly recommended on Boost Cruising and apparently has a reputation for not screwing you around. Said about $500 to inspect at my place, approve engine, gearbox, brakes and seats and put in the mod plate Doesn't have to be complete either, said he'd rather see it half done so it's easy to see clearances and how everything has been done. Kewl! The most interesting thing is the old Code of Practice is still in force and he doesn't expect the NCOP to come in until sometime next year. Was a nice guy and liked a chat, name is Paul from Mustang Sally Conversions 0405 192 640 and is based at Caboolture, but will travel from Sunny Coast to Gold Coast. That's a weight off my mind, now I can stop looking at turbo kits for the VG Oh and more interesting news, there is such a thing as a short Z32 clutch master cylinder. Pex has one in his Burgundy Bullet, just the right length
hi chrispy i dont know if this of any help but my clutch m/c off my TT has the outlet on the side of it, not at the bottom like yours not sure but it might be enough to get the room u need?
Have a look at an early '90's hi-Lux mc M8. Only about 800 in length with the pipes exiting upwards. Cheap and millions of them. Bolt spacing may be different but looking at most of the headfarks you have been battling with, I reckon youll easily get around that!!! L8r E
Ummm...no not that one. My M8 has a 93 2wd daycab 'lux petrol tradie ute thingo. My own older 'lux (87) had a similar one which is quite short and upward exiting lines. L8tr E
