Maybe.... The Wideband won't fit anyway, too thick Ugly stickytaped gauge cup FTW! And lookeesee at this! My big box from the states rocked up Took like 5 days to get here I got: 2 Qrt Accusump with control valve, the fancy high flow one set to kick in if pressure drops below 25psi. Electric oil pressure gauge Heaps of -10AN fittings 1/8" NPT fittings so I can get the fuel pressure gauge sender plumbed up to the turbosmart regulator. Already had the cooler, thermostat and -8 fittings, but it makes the picture look better I got a AEM EUGO wideband. Off ebay for $250 or so, bargain! Came with gauge, bosch 5 wire sensor and lots of little plugs Nothing better than AN fittings -10AN from the oil filter adapter to the oil thermostat and back again. -8AN for the oil cooler and -10AN for the Accusump. I was going to go -8AN for all the oil lines, but some of the guys in the states have had trouble with oil pressure when running -8. Now I just have to find somewhere to mount the Accusump... Lucky I got the short one Might go where the battery is. I was thinking under the nose panel, but with the oil cooler and filter it's already getting a bit crowded. Where's yours going Tekky?
Ahhhhhhhh ...!finally a man with enough forward thinking to fit an oil temp thermostat in conjuction with a larger oil cooler! Very smart thinking my friend! Nice load of goodies there dude. I use precisely the same thing on my race car! L8tr E
A big plus for using a single flywheel spacer rather than two thinner ones. As for locating the Accusump, any space on the firewall? Have heard of people locating them inside the cabin with race cars but don't like that idea myself.
Haven't got much room on the firewall, having trouble finding room for the FPR I've also seen them mounted in the cabin, but that is a bit dodgy IMO. Can't see that passing road worthy If I can get the oil cooler into one of the side sections where the SMIC lives in a TT there should be plenty of room up front. The oil cooler is quite large and it might be quite squeezy fitting it nicely...
It's way too big to fit in the standard intercooler spot, tried that earlier today. It may fit up where the AIV's normally live, I'll give it a shot. To give an idea on the size of this thing it's about 110mm diameter and a good 500mm long with the control valve on.
They are a bitch to find a location for, oil line should be kept as short as possible and needs a suitable run, cylinder should be higher than the engine but thats not essential and its good to be able to read the gauge.
No, that's just the cheap gravity ones. The fancy Accusumps have a piston to seperate the oil and air. Or something like that, anyway it says I can mount it any way I want... I've decided to weld some brackets to the reo bar and mount it directly behind that. Perfect amount of room Well, assuming that I can fit the filter and lines in the engine bay rather than under the nose panel bolted to the chassis where it is now. Edit: I have a metal reo bar, that's how I can weld to it
Picked up the rest of my exhaust bits yesterday 3" mild steel mandrel bend for the extractors. 3" to 2.5" reducer. Few meters of 2.5" 304SS pipe (so shiny!), 4 180deg 2.5" mandrel bends in 304SS, assorted SS flanges, gaskets and O2 bungs. Got it all from Speedy Exhaust at Everton Hills. $500 for the lot. Gotta pinch my brother in laws welder as mine is too big for a mini spool of 316L wire A full spool of wire would have been $450
Nistune board installed! Here is the original Impul chip. Thankfully they didn't glue this down like they do with some of them. And the new board installed. Only had to solder 4 wires in, easy as pie! Wire one goes near the R/W marking on the board. This isn't anywhere in the nistune documentation as I believe I'm the first person besides Matt at Nistune to use a board in a Q45 ecu rather than the usual trick of using a emulator with the Nistune software.
It's starting to look like a car again Ebay GReddy copy bar. Fits better than I was expecting. The drivers side will need some attention, but the pass side is really quite good. You can see that the reo bar hangs real low, have other people noticed this with a UAS/GReddy front bar? I might just be special with my weird metal reo bar though. Also did all the wiring for the electric water pump, mounted the controller in the footwell next to the ECU. I've installed the LED indicator for the pump in the standard temp gauge. It's one of those small 2mm (or so) red LED's, I hope the on and off doesn't drive me nuts. Probably worth it to know it's working though. Now if I ever get this sump back there isn't much left to do.
Well the work is still going well mate ,,, but one problem,,, bar looks shit . Have to get rid of it to my place Gonna be a beautiful site and sound when finnished Chrispy. Keep it up. Cheers Patrick
Finally got the sump back today. Looks OK, reasonably light for being made from 6mm plate I gave the inside a cleanout, then tested for leaks. One little tiny one near the dip stick tube thing. No biggie. Chucked it on the spare motor to check clearance and it doesn't fit at all The holes line up, and the body of the sump is mostly correct but the flange is all over the shop. It's far too wide and covers some of the oil returns from the block, no room for the windage tray that bolts to the girdle, no room for the oil pickup as that part of the flange is very wide were they screwed up last time. Sigh Can only blame myself for not giving them a very accurate drawing of ALL dimensions required. I shouldn't have assumed that they will make the flange the exact same size as the stock one. In more light hearted news the Accusump is now installed. Just have to get some hose and wire it up to a switch in the cabin. Now what to do about the sump situation. I've got a few ideas going through my head: Try and save my old mild steel sump. Crank the welder up to 11 and try to fill the little bastard pinholes that plague it. Try and save the new ally sump, this will require a lot of work and I don't want to go back to that shop, it'll probably take another 11 weeks Will have to pinch my brother in law's welder than takes minispools or go and visit Gav and use his TIG. Abandon a normal sump design and go a dry sump. Shouldn't be too hard to chop and change the new ally sump to a flat bottom with a gulley and weld in two AN bungs. A lot of rooting around with pumps, lines, tanks and pulleys though. Big $$ too.
