Wasn't their fault, I wasn't specific. In fact I was very vague on that bit and just said copy the old flange layout.
OK, due to the constant harassment from Simmo for piccies of the new sump, here they are All mild steel, capacity is around the 3.5L mark. I can't go bigger while still fitting my enormous 4-1 exhaust collectors in. I have the 2Qrt accusump, so total capacity is above standard. It fits perfectly It's a little deeper than the one I made so I will have to extend the pickup about 10mm, will try and do that tomorrow. The reason the sump looks WAAAAYYYY too shallow is due to the design of the block. Here is a VH45 mid rebuild (piccy stolen from Mettler) And here is one of a VG30 (stolen from EPR) You can see how the crank in the VH is recessed a lot more into the block than the VG. The Girdle on the VH is nearly below the height of the flange that the sump attaches too. That's why it looks a bit weird. I reckon it will make for a much stiffer block.
Yeah, it was Ausweld. $340, I supplied a standard sump that they cut up for the flange. They also made a (really big heavy) jig to hold it straight while welding. Phil (the owner) wants to scale things down, there workshop is up for sale at the moment.
That is a shame, they are brilliant at what they do, as yoy can see. And the pricewas pretty good too. I used to deal with Phil alot, they repaired chassis.oil tanks etc where I used to work, and what they did with my motox engine was amazing.
Yeah, price was a lot better than I was expecting. Dave, the boilermaker who did the sump showed me a main beam off a 10T Forklift that had been on the back of a truck that had been raised. It had hit a bridge at 100kph Nice big twist in it He reckoned he could fix it! Cluey bunch of guys that's for sure. Phil will remain in business, just not doing such heavy stuff apparently.
Coz everyone like piccies here are some more. Not really showing anything, but meh. Engine back in (for the 15th time I reckon, getting good at it now ) The radiator pipe work is sorted now, just need one more hose from Supercrap and some clamps then it will be done. I think that I will have to look into a swirl pot air seperator thing at some stage though. There are some high points. Due to switching to -10AN oil fittings from -8AN I have to lower the remote filter mount to fit them all in. Only problem is the filter would then be too low and would stick out past the radiator support and I really don't want to take it out on a speed bump. So off to Supercrap again and found a filter very similar, just a bit shorter. I had a look at the SR20 filter that Steven recommended (and looks about right compared to the original filter I removed off the first engine) but is too small IMO, so have gone with this one which is nearly twice the size. No idea what it's off but here is the number. Same thread and o-ring as the other Nissan ones (and the one off my 'rolla ) The one I had was put on by chr1s who sold me the engine. It's a Z145A off a Skyline/VL. New one next to the old Skyline one, nice and short. And the new filter on the adapter. Heaps of room to drop it down now Did some work on the exhaust. The extractors needed some love to point in the right direction, so I cut the old 3: flanges off that I had welded on and got a 3" to 2.5" reducer and a 3" 180deg to sort it. I can't finish it off until I pull the engine again. Extractors won't clear the studs with the engine in and I don't want to pull all the studs out to put in bolts as that is not a fun job at all. But my welding has improved quite a bit I also had to move the dipstick tube that was welded in by the fabricator, I specified the wrong spot to put it. Oh well, fresh non oil impregnated steel welds easy. I've reused the standard dipstick from the VH, just needs another cut and rebend to suit the new sump. So my list of stuff to do over the next week or so: Make new bracket for filter relocater to fit the -10AN lines. Move radiator about a inch to the pass side to allow for rad pipe from bottom of rad to suction of electric water pump. Make blanking plate for the old water pump flange. I think I'll cut up the disaster sump, least something of that exercise will be put to use Get a plug to suit the sump, the fabricator didn't tap the hole with the right pitch thread. I was even very careful to measure the thread on the old plug with a thread gauge and note it on the drawing. Oh well, least it fits. Mod drivers side extractor with the new bits Get the new sump bolted up for the last time and sort the dipstick That will probably do for now... Opps, forgot to add started on bleeding the clutch using a vacuum bleeder. Slowly getting there but I think I will have to finish it off the old fashioned way. I hope whoever designed the clutch system on the Zed got fired...
Me too, I just got to find somewhere to put it now. I got the 3 quart one and the sucker is LONG. Electronic valve is the way to go :thumbup: I think you shouild really try to use a Z9 oil filter Chrispy. If you are going to relocate use the biggest filter possible. I did an oil filter relocation too BTW Except mine is upside down right up the top so its easy to get to.
3qrt! I didn't even think about that one as it's too friggen huge no idea where you are going to stick that Meh, the filter I have is larger than standard, I'll see what I can do with the lines and fittings I have. I'm sick of buying AN fittings, expensive little suckers. And is your filter upside down as in it will make an enormous mess every time you undo it?
No, cause the oil drains back into the sump when the engines off. So little or none will leak out. Just put a RAG around the base and unscrew. Have seen it done on quite a few Skylines.
Nearly all the ones I looked at when I was at Supercrap had the anti drainback valve in them. I'd rather have it full of oil than empty everytime I go to start it, accusump or not. And while we're here a quick update! Sump fits well with the engine in position, but the shallow section of the sump is a little too thick and touches on the steering rack on the pass side (my mounts are a little wonky that's why there is clearance on the drivers side). I've spaced the mount on the drivers side to give a little more room and I will make a new mount for the pass side when I get around to it, probably this weekend. Dipstick tube fits between the runners on the pass side exhaust well and the stick is accessible, so that's a win-win Just have to modify a standard VG dip stick to suit the new sump. I've done some more chopping and welding on the extractors so I can make the rest of the exhaust soon. I'm really glad I've only gone for twin 2.5", 3" would be a real PITA to fit in. Also made a blanking plate for the water pump hole in the block. And because it's bad form to have a update with no piccies, here are some piccies! Cutting the ally sump up. Used a few cutting bladed because it was so thick. Pattern copied from the water pump to the ally Big bits chopped off with the drop saw. I wish I had a bandsaw Attacked it with the grinder to get the shape, drilled some holes to see if it fit. I got one in the wrong spot thanks to a not deep enough centre punch. Give it a clean up with a flap disc All nice and pretty on the motor
You need to buy a PLASMA cutter off Ebay. $400 would have saved you hours with all the cutting you have done. Cuts through alloy and steel up to 8mm like butter.
Fingers crossed! Doesn't need a whole lot more before a quick spin around the block is possible. When are you going to be over this side of the country I wouldn't get the use out of it. And my time and 3 cutting discs is a hell of a lot cheaper than $400
Maybe, But the job is cleaner more accurate and super quick AND you get to have another toy. I even have jigs I made so I can straight cut steel/alloy without a Guilotine. The best part is for making metal boxes/tanks etc You make the shape in cardboard so it all fits using scissors, then break the box apart and use it as a template to cut the steel. It all fits first go. I love my Plasma cutter.
