Zed Race Car Mods

Discussion in 'Technical' started by UNIQUE ZED, Oct 24, 2008.

  1. UNIQUE ZED

    UNIQUE ZED Zed Racing World

  2. ed300zx

    ed300zx Active Member

    nice mods

    just wondering. how long until a new car will be needed (ie; chassis and body) or will this one go for a while yet
     
  3. UNIQUE ZED

    UNIQUE ZED Zed Racing World

    No No

    Spent probably hundreds of hours on this Chassis, roll cage, weight reduction, cradle and roll centre mods, aero etc.
     
  4. ed300zx

    ed300zx Active Member

    ahh ok, just didnt know how long a chassis can go on racing and racing...thanks for the reply
     
  5. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member

    Nice :)
    If you have any trouble with the dirty old Nissan ball joints in the rear knuckles you could upgrade to the adjustable toe arms for the NA.

    This removes the risk of the joint failing and the wheel steering out of control as the new fitting results in a bolt passing through a bush in the knuckle so is fail safe (unless the bolt comes out LOL! )

    I did this to my TT cradle though I haven't allowed for as many adjustments as yourself as it is purely a toy not a weapon :cool:

    [​IMG]
     
  6. ZEDZY

    ZEDZY Active Member

    Your getting rather serious with the modifications now.
     
  7. MikeZ32

    MikeZ32 das Über member

    yup that looks superb as well. should match up with low ride heights perfectly.
     
  8. UNIQUE ZED

    UNIQUE ZED Zed Racing World

    Options

    Mungyz the pic of your car is on hoist on droop. Check it out at static height. Also we have an NA diff cradle, although very modified now. We had a NA type aftermarket rear toe arm like your car has, and we changed to this custom set up with rod end inner, but using OEM outer ball joint. These are actually best as no restriction as multi pivoting, and no play unlike the bush type. We also use R33 GT-T circlip rather than the heavy bolt and big washer used on zeds at the back of the ball joint. All other bushes in the car were replaced with male 0.001 tolerance German made metric Teflon rod ends, most of which have dust seals. The female ones like lower rear strut mount and others are from Biot in Japan.

    Big test is Wakefield tomorrow to see how it all goes, and will let you know.
     
  9. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member

    Yeah on axle stands in the photo, top arms sit flat when at normal ride height - the toe arms about 5 degrees below level and the lower arm about ten (using extremely accurate eyeometer :p ) not the best but for street use OK.

    Had some fairly bad body roll using the Kings springs and Koni shocks with stock NA sway bars (front bar is bigger than the TT 27mm TT, 29mm NA !? )
    So have just fitted a pair of Whiteline bars front being three way adjustable, rear could be modified for adjustment.

    Have a photo some place with the inside side of the car riding about 150mm higher than the outside while on the hairpin at Taupo :eek: never feels that bad in the car LOL!
    Sway bars are in now so should sort most of that out, also need to put a little more camber back into the front as at the last meet turn in was crap.

    I like the mods you have done on the front for roll centre adjustment, I'm thinking there could be a bracket made up for those of us less keen to modify the chassis.
    The pivot for the upper arm could be moved a little (though not heaps) just by fitting the new bracket, with the addition of a spacer and rod end etc at the bottom front roll centre adjustment could be a bolt on affair :)
    (may need after market lower arm I guess)
     
  10. Fleet

    Fleet Speed Racer

    heard from JP today, improved PB by over 1 second at Wakefield!!
     
  11. heavytrevy

    heavytrevy "Hammer time "

    Impressive :zlove: all the hard work is paying off :)

    Trev
     
  12. MikeZ32

    MikeZ32 das Über member

    Superb although hardly surprising when it looks this good @ static height. This is a far cry from your standard road going zed suspension.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2008
  13. ZEDZY

    ZEDZY Active Member

    I want some lol. How hard is it to do this kind of work.
     
  14. ports

    ports the pro

    I recieved the same text Pete, 1.04:65 is bloody quick around that tight track.:cool:
     
  15. Milo (SATX)

    Milo (SATX) Overseas Z nerd.

    Amazing.

    Seen your car around on a mag or two that I somehow find over here in the states. Love the weld in bracket for the front traction bar.

    If you don't mind, do you have any pics of the rest of it. This is the first time I think I have ever actually seen internet pics of it.

    Thanks in advance.

    Also, what weight reductions have you done?
     
  16. Time Bandit

    Time Bandit New Member

  17. UNIQUE ZED

    UNIQUE ZED Zed Racing World

    Big job.

    Wizard and I raised front upper pivot points a while back, and max total raise could get was only 10mm. We did this by welding up holes in bracket that bolts to chassis, and bolt holes for the inner bolt for control arm and redrilled. To go higher than this you have to cut and shut like we did and raised it 40mm, with option fo further 16mm higher.

    As FLeet mentioned it was better than I thought and best previous was 1 min 5.4 with rear roll centre raised and now with front also 1 min 4.65. Car felt awesome, very flat and sure and stable.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2008
  18. UNIQUE ZED

    UNIQUE ZED Zed Racing World

    No secrets

    Not many anyway, go to Motorsports section goes form page 1 through to 9 showing development.

    Apart from the obvious weight saving, some Titanium and alloy nuts and bolts, sound deadening removed, rewired the whole car, cut off all brackets and metal not needed, just took out electric window out of passenger side. Next is carbon Targa roofs and tail gate, which will drop estimated 50kg.

    Wayne I know you like your car sick low, and there are some fairly simple things you can do. One is drop the cradle and grind the cradle bushes flush, which raises everything around 15mm in rear. On Z32 best to only grind half the forward ones to improve squat angle of lower control arm, especially if big power, to improve traction. For the front mod the inner upper bracket as mentioned and do similar with lower inner, or taller outer ball joint and then have to space the steering pivot down or your will get serious bump steer issues.
     
  19. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member

    Sweet!
    Is always good when some work is done and it proves itself straight off the bat :D

    Yeah like you say, a big job for any real gains, did you notice any improvement with only 10mm shift in the front arms or was it a bit of a let down?
     
  20. UNIQUE ZED

    UNIQUE ZED Zed Racing World

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