I have finally got to drive my car after its auto to manual change yesterday and i must say im not a fan of my z1 twin plate as its not as street-able as they say its fare from it. its turned my car into a whole another animal its so bittey and light weight it leaves you with no play its ether in or out so many times i stalled it trying to find the friction point, if you treat it like a normal clutch you are able to actually leave the set of lights with a loud rattle and squeak and you get a loud squeak at every gear change at any rpms of change and if you try release the clutch any quicker it brakes traction. if you are siting in a hi gear cruising 2000rpm or lower you put your foot down you get a big vibration thou the car and takes a sec maybe 1 and half seconds to go away. So what ive worked out, with a lot of practice is you can only take off over 1500rpm with a lot of rattle and the squeak slowly anything below you stall it and the tiniest bit more you got wheel spin. i have driven two other cars with twin plates my uncles mr2 and my other uncles meteor which was straight cut which only had a whining noise no rattles squeaks and with a lot less difficulty
Two things. Let it bed in more. One days worth of driving isn't going to give it much time to find itself. And also, you say there is hardly any free play. Is the pedal adjusted correctly. Fiddle with the adjustment to allow for a little more free play. It does take a little time to get yourself aquainted with a twin plate, but eventually it'll get there. Our Subaru has a twin plate and like yourself without a little extra rpm it shutters a bit. But it's a learning experience. Drive it for a week or two than let us know some more.
the z1 clutch is designed to only have 4 inches of travel with a stop mounted to floor under pedal. more for motorsports for quick shifts
I haven't heard a twinplate yet that isn't rattly. As the others had said, let it bed in some more. Twinplates are often very grabby, but normally pretty light under foot. I'll give you $500 for it
lol i wont be throwing in the towel just yet im gonna give it abit of time to get use to it and work it in abit but thats the lest of my worry's at the moment i have a small leak thru my cometic head gasket 4000km after re-build so it'll be in my garage a wail before i sort something out and you know who don't want to fix it for free... even thou he supplied it and fitted it 4k ago. sorry for repeating my self. so it might be sit around a wail before i can drive it again it would be perfect for track use not for the street.
Ok so i just read up on what z1 mention about the pedal stopper. It's rather easy to follow in the PDF they supply, but possible to stuff up and not have adjusted correctly. It mentions you should have 3/8 of pedal free play before you even feel the clutch. Then one engagement is found only a 1/4 worth more pedal movement is allowed and that's where the lock up needs to be adjusted too. Providing this has been done correctly there should be little cause for issue. As chrispy said there are hardly any twin plates out there that won't rattle a bit, it's something you learn to deal with. I'd personally let it bed in some more and allow yourself some time to become acquainted with it. But please to revisit your review. Keen to know what your final thoughts are.
I will follow up after more use thanks for the info ill refer that back to my mechanic it dosen't have the pedal stopper installed he said you didn't need it.
I run a twin plate, tilton on my Vg30, and whilst it is very quick to bit, I never experienced the shuddering you talk about. You should only experience the rattle when disengaged, any other rattling suggests issues. You will get squeaks and squeals until the surface bed in as other suggest. However don't be tempted to ride the clutch to bed it in quicker, just a lot of start stop traffic will do it. Also, a twin plate does not help with quicker gear changes, it helps with power transfer, and reduced rotating inertia of the engine. As you have found it stalls a lot easier, as it does not have the rotating inertia of a large single plate. The limit with gear changes in a sychro gear boxes is the synchro cones, forcing gear changes too quickly with a sychro box will result in worn cones and a gear box rebuild eventually. Also ensure the stop is installed as disengaging a twin-plate too far can result in damage to the fingers.
Can I go out on a limb and suggest that you are still learning to drive the manual transmission in this car? That's my input. My clutch is a real grabby UAS one ('heavy duty' apparently) and squeaks at every engagement and shudders on disengagement. It's the price you pay I guess... short of spending megabucks on something exotic.
My tripple plate is as rattly as hell. Its just in the design. I cant take off any lower than 2000rpm without stallng it. First time driving it it was horrible. After a while of driving it dont worry, it remains just as horrible. Im planning to ditch the light flywheel, go back to the stock weight fwheel and get a good fullface clutch.
Since my conversion a week ago I've been driving around with the f1 motorsport stage 3 and it's quite good. 6-puck single plate. It needs a little oomph to get off the line but it's quite light under foot and really not bad. Especially for the price. I'm running the NA pedal too, so no booster.
Disconnect the Clutch vacuum assist (if fitted) ... I had similar issues with the HKS Triple Plate I have, disabled the Vacuum assist and it's like driving a different car ... you actually get some "feel" back, don't get me wrong, you still have to pay attention but the clutch is now liveable.
Its sounding more like "not completely installed correctly "... If you follow instructions you will use the stop which his mechanic said wasn't required ..so just wondering what they did By the way slotcar runs this and recommends it for a street car ..not noisy and smooth. might be cheap in price doesn't mean its not good quality
Ha and how many street kms has John put on the Slot Car to qualify this reccomendation Cheap does not mean poor quality but I wouldn't expect a $1200 twinplate clutch to have the same drivebility as a carbotics twinplate which retail between $2k and $3k depending on brand and features, or a Nismo Coppermix which sells for around $2k.
I'm with black beast. It specifically says In the instructions that the stopper must be installed else damage will occur from over peddling. The only way in which your mechanic could have got around not using the stopper is to take a lot of adjustment out of the pedal. Meaning the pedal would sit a lot closer to the floor than the other pedals. Which isn't ideal. Pending that, it's possible the mechanic has no idea. Z1 specifically mention the correct way in which to set it all up. Failing this will result In damage. Get it sorted before you waste your 1k
Two points to note..... Firstly..... yes, multiplate clutches rattle.... but ONLY when they're disengaged If you can hear a "tin full of marbles" when the clutch is engaged, there is something not right Secondly..... the Z1 looks like solid plate clutches, so it's not going to be "driver friendly". My OS Giken has a sprung centre that drives the two plates making it much more forgiving.
