hopefully will fire up for the first time. I originally only wanted to change a head gasket because it boiled on the track ar QR. Could not get the heads off the block while the engine remained in the car. Took Chewy's advice and pulled the donk after 3 days! :wacko: Cylinder heads valves re-grind with inlet valves replaced (badly worn...too soft) cam followers replaced block and pistons...next to no wear so just a hone, re-ring, and new set of bearings. new cam timing solenoid...should make a difference at the top end. new O2 sensors ....should make a difference at the lower end new U/D pulley....should make a difference somewhere RH turbo was next to new so I washed the compressor on the L side checked it all out and put it back Over-hauled alternator. Replaced timing belts and rollers although it had been done not so long ago Engine is back inwith a few hours to go an :unsure: Cost about $3000 to do myself. Did I find what caused the boiling? :unsure: Yes I think so... I strongly suspect it was the lower radiator hose sucking flat at high rpm and stalling the water pump! Im replacing the hose with a stainless steel pipe.:embarrassed: Oh well live and learn.... regards John I will let you know if it actually goes :LOL:
good job John. and some good advice in there with the lower radiator hose. I'm glad i'm getting an alloy radiator hose installed now!
if you ever get a new radiator then get one that is a twin flow one so that the inlet and outlet are on the same side which reduces the length of that stupidly long bottom hose.
Bottom Radiator Hose problems. Sorry you had to find-out the hard way mate. The problem with that hose, has been kicked around for years on this forum. There have been countless GB's for metal pipe replacements, UAS (and others) have had them for sale for ages, and yet there are still Zeds out there that haven't been modified in this way (most of those not yet modded, will be sporting lots of "perfomance mods" and loads of "bling"), but "safety first" mods, "Nah! It won't happen to me." Well done, with the rebuild, hope everything will be fine for you from here on.:thumbsup::zlove:
On the subject I spent quite a bit of time on the phone today and faxing drawings etc to PWR who are doing a twin pass radiator for us. In and out same side with a partition in the middle, and out let not quite at the bottom, with an alloy tube so you can use existing hose with a join to connect at the bottom. For those racing less weight as less hose full of water, and it is better for cooling as the air gets two goes at it. You also don't need as thick a radiator to do the same job so can be lighter also. I have been using a 40mm thick PWR for a while now, not twin pass, with electric water pump and thermo fan and water temps are fine. At Eastern Creek on Thursday temps did not get over 80c. Come summer though would be more demand on the radiator so twin pass will help. Yes we will have option on thermo fan mounting bracket so can use this or also electric water pump which means less power draw on motor, which also means slightly less heat. Yes will organize a group buy on these.
Its not the radiator thats the problem but the hose however it would be worth keeping in mind if I did get a new one but that would only be if the old one stuffs up.:unsure: regards John
