I can't seemed to find anything wrong at all. I looked under the fuse/relay box and found a wire from the fuse that's been blowing has been taped up, I couldn't see any short in it, but I'm unable to test it because I don't know where it goes.
The wire going from the fuse has a tape around it. I can't see any reason why, unless it was shorting and someone fixed it in the past. The car didn't have hids when I bought it.
Wouldn't know for sure, I swapped my ballast for a spare one, and it worked, then I swapped the whole set (just because the old ones looked kind of shitty anyway). It seems like one bulb is brighter than the other now Any recommendations on new ones to buy?
Drawing straws here. Technically the bulbs could also be different types - but I am assuming they are all the same respectively.Resistance can also occur in the wiring itself, particularly if it is not thick enough but you have indicated since that this is fine. Given this: Your light being dimmer than the other is directly associated to resistance and / or the bulk of the power being shunted to another area (power will travel the easiest path like water). So one light bulb being brighter than the other can also be as a result of a short or a bad earth due to resistance. (Based on what you have said: any short / open circuit issue is likely to be on the left passenger side or if its an earth problem is likely to be on the right based on the dimming). It can be more technical than that if you get into the resistance of your earth leads and there placement/s and the resistance of the steel body itself, the negative ion being the flow (earthing) etc etc but in simple terms the above applies in general and common to troubleshooting in auto electrics. The location certainly could be the ballast, along with bulb holders, light switch etc, so if the ballast was the short/ open circuit, then that is great, put in a fuse and off you go, however if it blows another fuse that's a different story and your back to potential short/ open circuit elsewhere and you need to check the respective wiring. What you really need here - is to be able to read the electrical diagram and follow the wires with a multimeter, there is no way around this. You need to get someone who can test resistance/ current and follow the wires. Why don't you try to organise a weekend tech weekend and see if you can get someone that can check the wiring, you don't need an auto electrician, as all it takes, is someone who can use a multimeter and read a Z electrics diagram (which is in the tech section). Its very difficult to tell you where the short circuit actually is in precise location, without testing wires in your Z, given this is not a recall where a problem exists. I trust that you understand that you have to follow the wiring and test resistance/ current - it is the only way you can solve this. JC
Well I haven't blown any more fuses yet. I'll see how it goes for now, I do believe the HIDs that I put in there now might be fairly old. (it actually looked kind of blown).
You probably know this, but just in case remember if you have been playing with bulbs, not to contact bulbs with hands as any dirt / grime or grease from you hands can leave a fingerprint and this can crack the thin glass when it heats up to 100c+ and quickly destroy any life of a good bulb. Use "metho" and a clean cloth to remove any particles. The wires in bulbs do thin over time due to the constant melting and thus there is less filament/ more resistance and yes this can cause the bulb to be dimmer, but generally bulbs will age the same, if they are the same type, providing they are clean. Goodluck :br:
