Posting list of VH45 conversion parts and process for others future reference: Conversion Components VH45DE Engine Engine ecu & wiring harness {DECISION POINT} ... Gearbox (automatic Q45, manual Z32) Manual gearbox adapter plate and fly-wheel spacer Automatic gearbox controller, either OEM or Shift-At-Will kit with VH45 specific shift map. Custom engine sump {DECISION POINT} ... modified & lowered cross member or standard cross member Nissan R31 / Holden VL Commodore engine mounts for modified cross member. Custom engine mounts for non-modified cross member. Custom Tail shaft Exhaust system big Radiator Thermo-fans & mounting kit Electric power steering pump (MR2) Power steering hoses Power Steering cooler Gearbox oil cooler Engine oil cooler AC hoses Bonnet Pin kit Steering rack overhaul, rack bushes, chassis bushes Diff bushes Front springs Front coil overs Custom strut brace Custom under body mid brace Front Sway bar linkage kit Custom front sway bar mounts & brackets Custom front sway bar Custom air intake piping Air intake filter Custom master cylinder stopper RPM gauge re-calibrated Speedo correction kit Front brakes upgrade Front & rear disk pads Custom front undertray cover Nistune ecu
VH45 conversion process document is available for public download The 'Nissan 300zx VH45DE V8 Conversion Process' document (28 Nov 2009) is now available for public download from Megaupload ... I apologize the casion ad page that is opened when you click download. http://www.megaupload.com/?d=NM7TD8MJ Please provide any feedback with the number of the step that you have a comment about or believe needs correcting.
Only just found out you can use r31 engine mounts to do this project so i went out and got a pair, what i dont know is how exactly the cross member is being modified to fit them and how they bolt up to the engine itself cause the bolt holes dont line up? Any help would be appreciated, cheers Ash
Put on your thinking hat You have to extend the crossmember mounting points towards the front of the car. Not real nice IMO. Better off making custom mounts that use the VL rubber, or Z32 rubber. Q45 is a PITA as it uses a double bolt. Vl mount should bolt up to the VH ally mounts no worries, it's just a single bolt.
Did you read my conversion document Did you read my VH45 conversion document? http://www.megaupload.com/?d=NM7TD8MJ There are pictures of the cross-member mounting points in this document. PM me if you would like the most up-to-date version emailed to you. There are some advantages to lowering the cross-member instead of just sitting the engine on-top of the OEM cross-member. 1# During a car's live time you will go through multiple engine mounts rather than a single cross-member, hence using someone's OEM engine mounts is a easier and quicker long term maintenance solution. 2# the lowered cross-member allows the engine-oil sump capacity to remain around the factory level ( I believe ) of 5 litres compared to non-modified cross-member sump capacity of 3.0-3.5 litres. 3# the affect on the steering geometry handling is unnoticeable to nonexistent compared to OEM setup, even when the VH45 does not use an over-the-top front strut-brace. The non-affect on handling being due to the engine being positioned lower and further back in the chassis. 4# the lowered cross-member does not require custom steering arms or components... considering a road-car and not a track-day special. 5# the engine plenum fits under the line of the bonnet without any modifications which means you can use the OEM bonnet which helps resolve more stringent engineering requirements in some states. 6# the lowered cross-member solution will pass stringent engineering inspections and hence is 100% road legal... Custom engine mounts may not pass the yearly roadworthy inspection in some states. As a side comment the lowered cross-member solution used on my car was built by a professional chassis guy who as part of his business puts big engines into little cars for racing. So IMHO it is a good enough solution for me.
I wasn't talking about the lowered crossmember, but how you have to move the locating points for the engine mounts forward. I don't know how often you intend on flogging out your engine mounts, but most I've seen seem to last pretty well for 20 years or so Mine are just Z32 front lower control arm bushes and come to the pricely sum of $20. Dead easy to change. Spacing the crossmember will have no effect on sump capacity, either way you will have a relatively fixed height between the crossmember and the bottom of the block (just enough clearance for the oil pickup). Your sump capacity is slightly higher than mine as you have mounted the motor back further than me as I wanted to keep the standard shifter position, gearbox mount and driveshaft.
Any chance of upload this document somewhere else since Megaupload has closed its doors? Dropbox maybe? Thanks!
