No, not really. An expensive and impracticable band aid to what has been proven to be an alternate issue.
How could they not help? You don't have a dirty big intercooler blocking the radiator. I'm not saying use them as an alternative to fix the issue, but if he wanted to increase cooling efficiency.
Have you considered why NISSAN put side mount IC's on these cars??? By mounting an IC in front of the radiator, you are feeding HOT air into the radiator and expecting it to cool the coolant/engine temp. Not going to happen on our hottest days, I'm afraid(unless you have extensive ducting). An "under engine" cover is going to help, but only to a point.:zlove:
I've just been through this with mine - I just removed my FMIC and refitted the stock sidemounts while waiting for a pair of Japteks to arrive. I had no issues at speed - but at slow speed/stationary on a hot day, with the AC on, I was struggling to keep coolant temps down - even with a 53mm Koyo rad and Nistune to keep the AC fan on at lower speeds/temps. AC off never had a problem. This was with a UAS front bar, some ducting, and full alloy undertray With the stock sidemounts now - don't see over 85 with the AC on. For me its more important to have good AC than a big frontmount as I'm a bit soft when it gets hot here
Lol yeah he does? GTR's come out factory with a FMIC. Mate of mine is running in excess of 350rwkw on all 4, still using the standard FMIC. Properly built by a GTR specific workshop too, although we know that this isn't always reputable, but his GTR has been going hard and strong for a long while now. Just a bit of info for the FMIC haters.
If you are going to run a fmic, you need a cooling system that is in good nick. Clean rad (stock size is fine), undertray and new hub is all you need.
IMO FMIC ..no A/C If I kept A/C I would be running ashpec massives SMIC. Asking for trouble with both A/C and FMIC.. adding too much stress to the cooling system.
That wasn't directed at Ditcham, was meaning that if Kawa got rid of his FMIC then he wouldn't have one blocking the radiator. We all know the myth about Z's and their overheating problems. I don't see the need to run a front mount other then wank factor.
Factory GTR intercoolers are tiny, average zed front mount is 300x600x75 (or thicker). Different engine bay layout, more space etc. Not the same thing dude....
**** where's that wonka meme when you need it. Tell me again how a 75mm obstruction and increased ambient air temperatures (intercoolers are not magic, heat from your intake air is transferred to the air that passes through your intercooler core and then through your...?) DOESN'T reduce radiator cooling efficiency?
Difference with a GTR - is it has a decent size Rad in it! The TT radiator in the Zed is narrow thanks to the boost pipes down either side of it - there just isn't enough surface area there - and a thicker rad can only help so much....
just to add to that - cooling system was running stock fan shroud (upper and lower) brand new fan clutch, fan blades and thermostat...
The most important part of it is fan shroud + new fan clutch. Admittedly I have removed AC, which makes a difference, but I do know of people (Attila, Procky) who use a FMIC, AC and stock radiator with no problems. there are more obviously but they're just two others i have spoken to about it in person.
Ahh my bad You're right, I was just stating something that might be of help to the topic. I'm not a FMIC fanboy, I'm happy to admit that the air provided to the Rad will be hotter than that of the air provided to the Rad without a FMIC, and that there are pros and cons to both FMIC and SMIC.
No the most important aspect is efficiency. Understand that temperature we see is "heat" that has been transferred to the coolant. The purpose of the radiator is to transfer this heat to the surrounding air. Heat will always move from an object to its surroundings until equilibrium is achieved (second law thermodynamics, thank you wiki). If you increase ambient air temperatures the radiator functions less efficiently due to reduced heat transfer. If you obstruct the radiator it functions less efficiently due to reduced air flow (keeping in mind that air is the cooling medium). If your fan or clutch are damaged and the volume of air being pulled through the radiator is reduced you lose efficiency. If air is flowing around rather than through the core you lose efficiency. If you run a thicker core radiator you increase the capacity of the cooling system to absorb heat from the motor but guess what? More hot water to cool and less air flow -reduced efficiency in terms if water to air heat transfer. Sure you can get away with various mods and compromises, but you'd be a fool to think you can continually reduce the cooling efficiency of the radiator without eventually paying a price in terms of engine cooling capacity. You would be equally foolish to ignore the fact that each component is part of a system and insist that there is a "right" or "wrong" way to modify the car.
Weird from vented nose to standard nose? I only got the vented nose due to UAS's promise it would help cooling, should have known better.
