Car is back on the road done a 100k run in her. At what revs would you expect the turbo's to kick in on an auto? What should the turbo guage do if you feed her some revs showing that they are working correctly. Have done the TB, EGR, AIV and Turbo coolant line bypasses. Does anyone have a diagram of the vacuum lines after these bypasses as I have 2 lines that come from a switch block near the brake MC area and only one line from it connected up to the balance tube and 2 doing nothing. Car idles smooth and runs up through the revs fine but stumbles a bit under medium load.
Factory auto turbos? They spool up **** near instantly, can't remember the RPM off the top of my head though.
You will not get anything on your boost gauge while car is stationary. If you have only done 100klms, now is not the right time to check boost. I would expect Auto turbos (with Car in drive) to start to give boost at around 2800 to 3000rpm. Tell us how you have your turbos piped up. Have you got EBC, manual boost control or relying on stock control?
I think that little 'black switch' near your brake master cylinder might be your factory boost control solenoid? Might be your problem.
That's a boost sensor -all it does is convert pressure to an electrical signal for the factory boost gauge.
If your turbos are working and wastegates are closed, Standard wastegate actuators open with a 7psi air pressure, so if turbos/wastegates are operating then the minimum boost you will get is 7psi even if you have all the pressure/vacuum lines mixed up. The standard turbo solenoid is normally energised and de-energises when a fault is detected, directing the turbo outlet pressure straight to wastegate actuators. As I said earlier, you have to have engine under load, ie, on road or dyno, to get boost. reving the engine when out of gear is no good as you dont have the volume of exhaust gas passing through exhaust turbine to create pressure on compressor side
So the solenoid by the brake booster is not required? What about the hose that connects to the Balance tube and the others venting to air? The Turbo guage basically sits in the middle and doesn't move much. Also just found that the timing was retarded by about 10 degrees. I found that the auto was hunting at about 100k + no mater where the auto switch was positioned. e.g. Hold etc. Would the timing being out cause the gearbox to hunt?
The solenoids near the master cylinder are for the emissions systems, they can generally be removed as per http://z32.wikispaces.com/Vacuum+Diagrams The turbo solenoids are supposed to be mounted on the little brackets that bridge from the head to the plenum above the turbo on each side (I think, been a little while since I took them off) A problem with the auto will actually cause the timing to move because an auto gearbox in drive tells the ECU to advance the timing, if you have consult or similar check if the ECU timing readout matches what you're reading off the crank. Also, do you have stock pulleys or underdrive? some underdrive pulleys have been reported to have timing marks in the wrong place. Edit: Oh and if you boost gauge isn't reading vacuum either then it probably isn't connected properly somewhere, little black box with a single vac port either 2mm or 4mm I think, just needs to connect to anywhere on the plenum or balance tube.
Going by the modified diagram it appears that you can bypass all the solenoids? It still has the solenoids on the plenum brackets. 10% underdrive pulley is fitted. Unfortunately don't have consult. The vacuum guage goes to the middle position when key turned on and basically stays there.
You can indeed bypass all the solenoids, if you remove the boost solenoids you will only get low/safety boost but the other can be removed, preferably with the appropriate deletion of other emissions components then just plug any unused vacuum ports with vacuum caps and a little gasket/pipe sealant so they don't blow off under boost. For a factory auto you'll also have the cruise control here, don't remove the thing with the throttle cable coming out of it. Check the pulley's timing mark against piston one's tdc before changing stuff, I'm guessing you know how to do this from other cars you've played with? You also need to figure out what the ECU is doing before setting timing as per the factory specs, if there are any errors (like the gearbox signal not getting to the ECU), the idle is too high/low, there are vacuum leaks or if there is a power chip or other aftermarket tune in your ECU the ignition timing at idle may not 15 degrees and you can end up way off. Personally I left setting the timing up to my tuner so you'll want someone else's advice on how to make it accurate. Vacuum gauge in the middle (reading 0) at idle simply means its not plugged in somewhere, if you had no vacuum it would not idle Edit: http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.483 It should be on the driver's side beside the brake booster, these photos are from a LHD Z
Getting a handle on this now. So if I remove all the solenoids and wind up with low/safety boost? Does that mean it won't boost up to factory specs? Yes aware of the CC mounting etc. All deletes have been done. Without the Consult can I use a DTI to static set up the CASS. TPS & degrees on Crank pulley for a good base line?
Yes, as Martin said, if you remove the boost solenoid and have an unbroken vacuum line from the intercooler to the wastegate you will get 7psi, the car is intended to run with a peak of 9 to 10psi, this is acheived by opening the boost solenoid (they are springloaded to close, opening means the solenoid is in the on state and receiving current) and bleeding some of the pressure from the wastegate back into the intake pipes before the turbo, with the solenoids powered the pressure in the wastegate actuator is lower than manifold pressure so you get about 10psi manifold before your wastegate pressue reaches 7psi and the wastegate opens. The boost solenoids should be connectected to a T-piece in the vac line that runs between the wastegate and the pipe leading to the throttle body from the intercooler, there should be a restrictor in the lines running to or from (can't remember which, same effect) the boost solenoid. You can see a bit of a lump inside the vacuum line, if you don't have the restrictor in there you will bleed too much pressure and will probably run 16psi which is about when the standard gates blow open from pressure in the turbine housing. These cars are a bit wierd to get your head around so hopefully I explained enough of why its set up like that. I'm not very familiar diagnostic tools or consult so you'll need somenone else to chime in for that.
I disagree with this statement, I never said the boost solenoids were orb should be removed. What I said if your turbos and wastegates are working no matter if they are wired/piped up correctly the minimum boost you will see is 7psi. There is no restrictor, why would there be, this only slows the reaction time for the wastegates opening, Nissan designed the system to protect the engine, not to give performance, no matter what!!! These cars are not weird!!! some people that operate them think they are, I WONDER WHY?? Darcy, if you would like me to come down to GC with my basic diagnostic tools, I am happy to do this. after the 19th Oct when I have the Ipswich Classic weekend behind me. I'm not trying to be smart, but if you dont understand the full system, dont try and grandstand. Martin
My sentence was far too long but I wasn't wrong, the boost solenoids are attached to a T-piece in the wastegate vacuum line, the restrictor is in this solenoid controlled vent line. Head over to the tech section tech.aus300zx.com and search for boost jets, there is an article by Thumper with pictures and stuff that should be a bit clearer. Edit: http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.491
