Having some troubles getting a decent alignment. I've still got the hicas rear end and currently have the fuse pulled out so it's locked while driving. Do I need some kind of locking pin while it gets aligned or is it ok do with out? I'm not looking to delete the hicas just need it to steer straight before I can put the fuse back in. Also my boss kit is tak welded on to the colum. Is there any reason why it needs to be or is that bolt enough to hold it on tight?
You will have to get it aligned with a HICAS lock out bar anyway - so my opinion is that you should get the lockout bar first then align it. Whilst you can do an alignment if you are sure there is no air in the system my opinion is to do it properly and don't waste time and money only to do it again (alignment) later when you lock it - so just lock it out from the beginning if you can. I don't know why your boss is tack welded, it does not need to be - the bolt is not tack welded on anyone elses and holds fine. Hope that is helpful JC
As the Twin Turbo's are four wheel steer with the HICAS system, the rear alignment is adjustable, which generally is not the case with a conventional vehicle. Therefore, it would make sense to get a four wheel alignment done.
Where have you had the work done previously? What can't they adjust or set properly? What are the specifications they have set it to? What do you believe are the correct specifications for your model? Is your suspension stock or modified?
Bob janes. Biggest things are camber and caster on the front. So I bought new adjustable caster arms and they still can't get em even or within specs. The specs are the ones they said are factory for my car. Off the top of my head the caster is meant to be 09.50'? Suspention wise I have tein shocks and I have 20 inch rims but would love to **** em off for some 18s
If they cannot get it aligned after three places then chances are they cannot do it regardless of where you go given limitations of components. You have left out some variables here that are relevant so its difficult to say anything, I will have to assume it is lowered coils and so if you cannot achieve the camber beyond the adjustable length of the arm, then you may have to shim them or change rims. You don't say what the specifications are and how much out they are, so its difficult to say what you should do, some of the adjustable castor arms leave a lot to be desired in the length available, so you should compare them against the original in length to see what adjustable length you had to start with. You may also need to check suspension component lengths just to make sure there is no damage and compare the body points (in the manual) just to make sure there has been no front end accident previously or collapse of the camber arm causing damage. Front Castor is 8'55 -10'30 unladen to unladen*1 20 inch rims make it slightly more difficult - you must be close to the guards. Bit of a guessing game without alignment specs and more details on suspension. JC
With 20 inch wheels, you are limited to how far you can adjust the castor till the wheels start rubbing on the bumper and also makes it difficult to adjust the cambers because to get to the camber arms(if you have one) they have to reach between the tyres and the guard and that maybe a tight fit depending on the room available. Also keep in mind the lower the car the more camber it has, so if your camber arms are maxed out, you can either shim it or raise the car abit to get camber out. Factory settings are usually not the optimal setting for the car because they are set on the basis that everything is stock. if you want someone to do a good job on aligning it, i would suggest Fulcrum suspension they work on alot of sport cars and drift cars and even supply coilovers. Bob jane and co really only do toe and go and only set to factory settings. But as mentioned above there are alot of variables.
How do you know? It isn't aligned correctly if you don't know what the specified values are, or the current settings? The guess of the 09.50' caster setting is realistic, however specifications for a 1993 model are as follows: Caster: 08.55' - 10.25'. Camber: -1.35' - 0.05'. Toe: 0 - 2.0mm.
Totally agree - FULCRUM is the best! Incidentally - There also the authorised repairers for TEIN in oz.
Your '92 has the same specifications as the '93. The rear wheel alignment settings are: Camber: -1.36' to -0.36'. Toe in: 0.4mm to 4.4mm.
