Fellow Zeders, My Z doesn't seems to go in reverse so much, everytime i put in reverse car seems to stall, very frustrated, anyone experience similar things?? Cheers
...or your neutral switch could have a bad connection or break in the wire to the ecu, that is supposed to tell the ecu that it's in gear (have load on the engine) and advance the timing/idle 10 degrees like it should. Maybe check into this aswell. A quick check would be to run Datascan and watch the timing jump from 15 to 25 when you put it in and out of gear. (as well as the neutral switch light on the bottom of the display turning on and off too)
I do experience a similar thing, and I know for a fact that my neutral switch is missing/broken/not connected/on holidays. In my case I ride the clutch ocassionally and apply a little throttle. I'm fine with it because I know how to drive it this way - but my girlfriend complains weekly about stalling the car (as she drives it daily at the moment). I might get this fixed..
95% of manuals that have neutral switches that arent working or not hooked up especially if they have had auto to manual conversions... only makes a difference with conzult and timing... stalling shouldnt occur ever .
Eek, i was assuming it was an Auto actually. My bad. If it's a manual it this switch will have no bearing. Just have to ride the clutch more with higher revs.
oh.. haha thats weird. is it only in reverse???? get conzult on yoru z see if your pulling any error codes. poor grounds can play havok with the auto controller ecu..... take it from there. 1k is slightly high unless your running big cams and a worked engine... have u had a look at the plugs on the idle unit
Setting idle can be tricky as many I've seen have had the TPS adusted too high and base idle screw too low and some have had the little grub screws on the throttle body linkages payed with (this is a big no-no and can lead to left and right throttles opening out of sequence). Must set the TPS 1st to 0.44-0.46V, then reset TPS <>ECU connection by disconnecting 3 pin TPS plug for about 10seconds. Then adjust base idle screw with AAC valve disconnected to ~ 750RPM. Put car in gear and load up the alternator by switching high beams on and recheck idle, some older cars need a few more RPMs to stay 'happy'. I know this doesn't have anything to do directly with stalling in reverse but until you know your idle is set correctly, you dont have a baseline from which to troubleshoot. I'm not aware of any causes of stalling in reverse only. After idle check, I'd investigate the neutral switch path as Benny has suggested.
