well as i posted before i thought that replacing the spigot bush fixed my prob with not being able to get into 4th from 3rd and 4th from 5th when the car had been put under alot of load. went out to the qld raceway and on the 5th lap was impossible to get it into 4th or 5th pull into the pits and goto reverse back having to really pull it into reverse get it in she stalls start the car lift my foot off the brake and clutch is still to the floor she starts going backwards mmm not good. now so far i have replaced the clutch master cyl the slave and spigot bush. can anyone think of why this is happening it gets worse the more load i put on the gearbox before trying to change. i have a lightened jwt flywheel now im wondering ifthis might be causing the problem with expansion of the alloy also wasnt machined when fitted could the friction surface wheich is a separate peice from the flywheel be too thick?? im starting to pull my hair out with this. before i had the engine rebuilt and gearbox out was fine no dramas only thing i changed was flywheel so any advice or theories would be appreciated.cheers aaron
Have you checked the Clutch Fork Pivot? That's the only thing I can think of, and it may have bent or broken. If so, the clutch could be "dragging" (not completely dis-engaging). The Pivot is prone to causing problems, which is why UAS has had some much stronger ones made recently.Cheers mate Lloyd :-Z
would it be easy to tell if it was bent >> from a quick look at it as mechanic replaced the spigot bush but not sure if he looked at the fork also the problem doesnt exisit till the car warms up and i put it under max load. thanks for the idea thou chili will look into that one.. any more ideas guys??
Clutch to floor still drives, Yo have a clutch fault this would also give change probs.Possibly increase length of slave push pin to compensate for machining or check manual for other clutch adjustments .Chris K
Sounds like the clutch not fully disengaging and when the engine gets hot the whole assembly expands and makes matters worse, Im not sure what adjustments you have on the slave cylinder but it is as Chilli says or you have too much freeplay between the slave cylinder actuating rod and the throwout bearing yoke. regards John
when i first start the car from cold >> i put my foot on the clutch and i can hear the clutch disengaging and is easy to change gears once the car has been driven for about 20mins when in the garage after i reverse in i goto put it in 1st put the foot on the clutch and i can still hear the movement in the clutch area. i would have thought that a prob with the clutch would be apparant when cold or hot. also i have adjusted the clutch at the pedal till the friction point was right at the start of the pedal and had the same problem thats when i replaced the master cyl and slave cyl and now spigot bush and the whole system has been bleed very well. is there a maximium thickness that a flywheel should be? or can anyone recomend a very good gearbox specialist in bris that i can talk to and maybe get them to look at it..
Pin length on slave , gives the same travel even if the master and pedal are altered. machining flywheel causes clutch and pressure plate to move forward . Increase the length of the slave pin by the amount taken of the flywheel and you will return to normal. I have got away with a washer in the slave under the pin in the past though not the best option.Chris.K
yes, I would agree with this option.... either that or reducing the slave cyl diameter to give more throw on the pin.
cbzx so you saying i should give >> having the flywheel machined?? and about using a washer behind the slave pin i dont see how you could put one there without welding it there. would putting a washer behind the slave pin give me an idea if i need to machine the flywheel??
Weld extension length to pin, Or fit washer in slave cyliner piston where the pin slides in. it wont fall out Chris K NB your lightened flywheel was probably faced as part of its machining.
