Just had leader gears installed in the Zed and bought a speedo healer from Jaycar. It correctly senses the speed input automatically but I'm not getting any output. I have intercepted the Yellow/Black wire which should be the right one as the auto is spitting out a speed sensor error code. I have 3 output options on the controller. Pull-up, pull-down and AC outputs. Which one would be suitable? I have tried all 3 but am not getting any output... It also allows you to change to output between 5V max or 8.2V max. Anyone used one of these in the Zed before? Although it says it's sensing the input correctly, it does allow you to change the imput type as well: - Pull-up resistor (low sensitivity @ 2.5V peak) - AC input (high sensitivity @ 0.7V peak) - Pull-down resistor (low sensitivity @ 2.5V peak) - No pull-up or pull-down resistor (low sensitivity @ 2.5V peak) Heeeelp?
Lol,told you they are a pain, put a correct value resistor in the R10 position on the speedo and be done with it.
The picture on Jaycar shows the unit with 4 screw terminals, I assume positive and negative power and the yellow-black wire is cut with VSS on the input and the output side to the speedo. The FSM (EL-69) specs the speed sensor test at 0.5V AC, from what I can see this signal is via the yellow-black wire to the speedo, its then converted into a DC voltage and routed over to the ECU for engine management purposes. Configure input to "AC input (high sensitivity @ 0.7V peak)" and output to AC 5V max, if that's the lowest setting. It wont necessarily put out 5V, it should mimic the input voltage. The flashing LED is just sensing an input, no necessarily a correct one. I don't want to assist you in frying your stuff (if you haven't already) so post up the instructions if you can be stuffed.
Here you go John, hope this helps: Was supposed to be riding to Tenterfield today, thus the early rise, but the weather would seem to be against me yet again
That's one of the ways I tried it yesterday. I'll try that this morning one once I think the neighbours have had enough sleep. Thanks
You're right about the 4 terminals. Power + GND, then Speed wire in and Speed wire out. Y/B wire goes to Input, then goes from the Output to the gauge cluster.
I use the ECUTalk as my speedo more than the dial. Plus, the ECU will be thinking we're going faster and the odometer will be ticking over quicker I suspect.
After reading the instruction I wouldn't try the 5V output. Remove the healer and twist Yellow-Black together again and see if speedo is still working all be it inaccurately, then manually select the AC input with an AC output.
I removed the corrector and put the 2 new wires together and confirmed the speedo worked so that bit is OK. From what I gleaned from the instructions, you select either 8.2V or 5V output with LK1 or 2 during the initial setup AND then LK3, 4 and 5 is used to select the output as well? They provide 2 jumpers so I assumed they want both output types selected together?
Here's the finished board from yesterday. You can see LK1-5 as 2 separate bits with a jumper each. I guess another option is I messed up the board construction but my multi is dead and I can't test it
EDIT Changed end bit, had it arse about face. Reading the instructions its using switch positions to initiate setup sequences in the controller, but this isn't plain to see and makes it hard to understand what your doing, so they have dumbed down the setup procedure to make it idiot proof from their perspective, but the lack of explanation makes it hard to follow, do exactly what it says. The second link doesn't go in till step 9. Moving from step 6 to 7, I would not turn the ignition off leave it powered up. Steps 7 and 8 are exiting the setup process. Step 9 is finding the right output probably go straight to link 5. (Link 2 still in place) Still with ignition on set percentage change, S2 - 1 / S1 - 0 this will give 10% decrease in speed reading, based on diff ratios of 4.083 divided by 3.692 = 1.106, which is a 10.6% change, I would set for 10% for safety as above until GPS or dyno fine tuning can be done. If speed reads high then do step 11 to change from 11% increase to an 11% decrease. If this dosnt work try it again and in step 9 pull link 2 before fitting link 5.
I'm stumped. I tried different lag settings and changing whether it calculates over 1 or 2 pulses just then, still nothing. The LED did go spastic at me once when I was trying step 9 but haven't replicated it since. I tried manually setting the input to AC but it couldn't detect an input (at least the LED wasn't flashing @ 1Hz so I didn't think it was working).
It says to connect to a switch ignition power, the point of this is that when you turn on the ignition power on as per the setup instructions the code will be starting in the known position for the instructions to work, with constant power it doesn't get this reference start up point and your efforts to initiate a process that you are blind to isn't happening. At least that's what I think. The 4 second delay is for the slow little processor to do what it has to do, give it 4 seconds to do what it needs to do, not try to complete it all in a 4 second window. It wont read what it did before it will just pass through the signal and you will get a speed increase because of the diff, but no speedo movement is obviously means its not working.
Hmmm, just to clarify, the signal from the speed sensor goes directly to the yellow/black wire behind the dash FIRST? Then to the ECU from the cluster via another wire?
EDIT My understanding is that its using 0.5V AC signal from the speed sensor via the Yellow-Black wire to the speedo, then the speedo changes the AC signal to a 4.5-5V DC value that goes off to the ECU on another wire. That 4.5-5V DC signal has nothing to do with what you are trying to do, so don't relate it the setup off the speed healer. Power it from a ignition switched power source, use the auto input setting, which sounds like it worked, follow the instruction and in step 9 set to"AC" with link 5.
Ok thanks I wanted to make sure I was intercepting the signal directly from the speed sensor without anything else interfering with it.
Haha I was googling for solutions and found a result that looked like the same problem I'm having. Turns out it was this thread Doh!
If your looking for a handy ignition switched power source, you can get it of the clock harness, there is also a constant 12V there as well ... if only your MM was working. Hope this right searched it up from another post. Blue/White is power from the Accessories circuit Black is the earth connection Green/Red is connection to illumination circuit to dim the display when the lights are switched on. Yellow is the permanent 12 volt battery connection
Just saw a speed corrector on TT.net that takes both wires from the speed sensor... http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=1742595&forum=general&dtSearch=18
