J-spec '91 TT (converted to NA) Hey guys + girls i got a problem when i take off. when i try to take off my car sort of stalls. which i find weird cause its a auto. and i know that the a/c is suppose to take about 8hp for the engine but it especially likes to cut out when its turned on, however i dont use the a/c often anyway. and also i dont know if this is related but i had been going through some old post and i was just curious about the fuel consumption. i think ive got about a 50 -60L tank and im lucky if i get 250km out of it. sometimes i notice a strong smell of fuel when i park and could this be from a leak in the fuel line or from running too rich. any help appreciated cheers matt
Can't help on the "stall" but the fuel economy issue may not be related to fuel smell.. First point of call is to check the ECU for error codes. Assuming no codes, your 02s may be out, which would explain horrendous fuel economy - to find out, get a member with Datascan to help you out. Fuel smell could be a bad fuel filler cap / ring thing.. -Kirill
yeah mate thanks i had the codes checked and all there was was the knock sensor and tps codes. knock sensor was cause of shit fuel quality in aus and they reset the code for the tps
You cant just reset the codes without first fixing the problem.. Knock sensor code comes up when there is a fault in the knock sensor electrical circuit, not because of bad fuel.
Knock sensor code you say? This could be your first step of rectifying your fuel economy. Knock sensor code doesn't actually mean the car is knocking / pinging. It means the knock sensor circuit is malfunctioning, and fuel won't fix this problem. When this happens, your car will run on RICHENED fuel maps - thus eating more fuel (also reduces boost in twin turbos). The knock sensor error needs to be resolved as your car is running rich right now because of it. In regards to the TPS, that could be why your auto is sluggish - I know dodgy TPS can play havoc with the auto's shifting points - could be the same for take offs? -Kirill
when i first got my car na auto it had a stalling problem which came down to an electrical fault cant remember where or what it was now, but i suggest you get it looked at asap, mine once stalled going around a corner into oncoming traffic steering locked up not very much fun!
actually on that note on the O2's I was wondering what voltages are they meant to read? Because in my car the left one stays at 0.33v and the right hand one moves up and down with throttle.
agreed with above.. cant just reset the ECU and "done, problem solved" TPS you will need to readjust yourself then check with consult or multimeter (tech search). DET sensor. Well once again refer to a bypass (temporary or perminant depending on your bank account). and o2's... check them and MAFS (mass air flow sensor).. also get under car and do a quick check for any eXhaust leaks (small ones as that would make the car feel poor also).. now a small thing that came to mind.. check your throttle .. maybe there is give in the throttle causing a mild lag and not being able to get full throttle. Clean Throttle bodies too if ur bored.. cant hurt. *unless you dont put something in right or let something fall into the plenum*.
am i the first here to note he's driving a TT CONVERTED TO NA? I highly doubt the diff was changed to a TT diff, so it will be higher geared with less power, and it's an auto. Also, your fuel issue could have been caused by the above mentioned reasons, which means you're running richer and retarded timing...so not making a whole bunch of power at all. if the car is actually stalling then the auto box may be on the way out (not too experienced with autos so someone else can probably help). How are you trying to take off? Just put foot down while in drive i gather?
You have a much bigger fuel consumption problem than you think(your car has a 72 ltr fuel tank, NOT 50-60 ltr). Get it checked out asap, excess fuel in the engine can wash the oil off the cylinder walls and cause extreme wear, resulting in a costly rebuild.
Agreed, its using far too much fuel for a 72L tank. I get average bout 500-610k's out of a tank depending on the type of driving.... Get it checked out coz if the fuel is disappearing, you need to find out where its going... I havent heard of a NA stalling on take off....maybe this could be related to the high consumption of fuel? Not flowing thru freely, maybe a blockage somewhere, so when the blocked part is loose/free again the fuel just shoots thru instead of the easy flow therefore causing too much going thru at once....???
i Think you'll find that it's a culmination of problems. CODE 34 (det sensor) is throwing you into knock map which is extremely rich, coupled with a cold start overfuelling and I'm no surprised it wants to stall on takeoff. shot O2 sensors will also destroy low rpm economy, and if you've got any vacuum leaks hunt them down as this will throw out your economy as well.
So you have converted from a TT, to NA correct? Was the ECU also swapped over??? How does the car idle, what rpm, and does it idle nicely, or low and rough? How does the engine respond when you are in park, and give the throttle a quick stab?
Didn't even see that bit. Do you still have the stock TT ecu in there? Because it's tuned for larger injectors...not enough of a difference there to stop you running, but enough to bog you down big time.
yeah mate your right. switched exhaust manifolds and removed turbos. and i also switched over the ECU to a non turbo one.
Yeah the ecu was also switched. at first the car idled funny like it was hunting for the right revs when in park. but now nissan rest something and had a play around and it sits at about 900rpm. as for the response if you put your foot down, and not to rough i might add, it dips and almost stalls. if i give it a quick stab it will go to move but stall and cut out and sometimes it will recover but thats only if i take my foot of the pedal
as andy said, it's an accumulation of problems. Code 34, maybe shot o2's, TT engine is lower compression so without forced induction it will be a dog, and it's an auto, and a TT diff.
