Hey Guys I have adjustable wastegate actuators on my Z1 GT2860R kit, thing is I'm not sure when they will start to open. I don't want a minimum boost (gate pressure) of 16psi or something like that. Would like to have it at around 12psi. Basically want to know if I should re-adjust the wastegate rods. Few pics below. Thanks Matt. This is the pressure require to completely open the wastegate on my new 2860R's This is the maximum the gate will open - is this sufficent to control boost and not have spikes? This is the pressure required to open a 20 yr old stock turbo/wastegate I have laying around.
I set mine to 15psi, and that was just enough movement in the wastegate to get the flaps to lift *just* enough to allow them to spin. At wastegate pressure I get a max boost of ~11psi.
Not having enough movement wouldn't that cause it to spike up and not release enough exhaust gases to keep the boost at a controlled level??
correct me if im wrong, but atmospheric pressure will be higher to open the wastegate. And the pressure to open the wastegates (under vacume) will be less?
I still need to do mine before the engine goes back in. Actual boost pressure is less than setup pressure due to exhaust back pressure also trying to open the waste gate flapper valve as Chrispy has indicated. The main thing is to synchronize both turbos, then use a boost controller to set the amount boost you want. From here.... http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300...ere-is-how-to-do-the-wastegate-actuators.html and one from MickW http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297896
Wastegate flaps dont actually have to open far at all. If the actuators have been badly setup reducing flap movement, then boost CREEP (pressure keeps rising slowly as revs build) is the result. Spiking pressure is often the result of poor wastegate/linkage setup/alignment or simple mechanical "stiction" in the flap pivot due to lack of use (boosting)!!! Do your setup as per Chrispy/ the above method but you really need a much higher resolution guage to get repeatable results. However, to eliminate any variations from dodgey guages, Id be tee'ing the 2 turbos together and making my adjustments together off the one pressure source/guage. THEN you'll know they are equal as you can get them even if you have some ambiguity in the actual blowoff pressure. E
That's what I meant to say, boost creep not spike. Will definitely check them with a T peice that they open simultaneously and equal.
The 600 kit actuators are not ideally set up. The passenger side actuator rod is nearly @90deg to the gate linkage which is good, because it allows ease of movement because of the 90deg angle. The driver side actuator rod is no where near 90deg at the gate linkage, and requires slight additional pressure to move the gate to open. So if both actuators are set to open at 14psi the P/s gate will open earlier. Ash wrote an article about this and described the appropriate action to take if synchronizing gate opening is the goal.
