I have just up graded to a series 2 ptu from the series 1. When the car had the series 1 ptu it would start fine and run well while driving but when at idle every so often it would have a missing beat. Vvvvvvvvv pop,pop vvvvvvvvvvvv pop,pop etc.. When I would drive, it would be fine, only when I stop at the traffic lights or at idle it would do the popping and the car would shake. I did notice last drive it had irredic idle, vroom vroom vroom when pulling up the driveway. Then I went out and bought a new temp sensor and series 2 ptu. Once all was swapped over I started the car and it didn't have that 'pop pop' every so often anymore but it sounded like it was missing a full cylinder? Running rough as guts and shaking every where. I did notice I need a new plug for the temp sensor, maybe it was a faulty series 2 ptu? The wirers on the wirer loom were hard and hard to solder together? What have people experienced if they have before? Any ideas what it could be? Please zed help!
Do a power balance test by pulling a coil pack connector one by one. This will identify if one of the cylinders is not getting spark (ie idle won't change when the bad cyl is pulled). Chances are the PTU wiring has a bad connection somewhere, and spark is a bit dicky to one of the cylinders. Double check that all connections are secure on the plug (push wires in from behind). A bad or intermittant connection may be causing this. Did you solder it yourself?--> If YES, double check the solder joints, and the wiring to ensure the firing order is maintained. Did you use an adapter harness?--> if YES, check connector joints on the PTU itself, and the connectors on the old PTU harness.
yes check the connections and also check the black wires it is very easy to get them mixed. one goes to the copil pack and one goes to earth, make sure the one that goes direct to earth is the one you have loope3d to the other side of the new PTU, thats if you have not used an adapter harness.
The wirers were hard to solder as when I cut the old wirers they looked black and were hard not nimble. This weekend I will cut open the loom more and find apart of the wirer here it's more nible. Thanks for the advice guys I'll keep posted after the weekend
What do you mean by backed out? Ok I cut the wirers to where they were kore flexible and not as ridged. I redo defer and all good clean joins. When I started the car it was the same as before but I noticed the irregular beat had gone from the old s1 ptu, so it's not the ptu but the car was shaking. Thanks to Mitch I done the power balance test by lifting the plugs and I noticed both back cylinders, closest to firer wall, didn't change the idal when unplugged. So has anyone had this problem before? Thinking about it the problem it might be that I soldered the wrong wires to wirers with ptu, I found it strange both back cylinders wernt firing. Could someone show a photo of what colour goes to what so I can make sure I done it correctly? Or could it be the spark plugs but they havnt done over 5000km's. Coilpacks? Or plugs? What have people experienced?
When you plug the connectors together, the male pin pushed the female plug out the back end of the female connector. Hence no electrical connector. Sort of like you trying to throw the leg over, and having the missus shuffle to the other side of the bed. Don't ask me how I know
