rotary engine...?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by MrSmizzy, Jun 18, 2004.

  1. MrSmizzy

    MrSmizzy New Member

    With my engine possibly rooted i'm toying with the idea of dropping in a 13b or 20b rotar. Does anyone know if this has been done? Anyone know of a weight figure for the 300 TT engine, a 20b is 350kg.I think I should be able to do this without spending all that much more than with rebuilding my 300 engine.Unsure about the gearbox issues though....
     
  2. WYKKED

    WYKKED <b><font color=red>2 Much Trouble</font></b>

    I think by the time....>>

    You add up the cost of purchasing a rotary and all accessories, then all the bits to get it to fit, and all the Zed bits to fit to it, then work out how the ecu is going to work (or you could just scrap it), then add the cost of the conversion for the gearbox not to mention the cost of getting it engineered I think it would be cheaper to rebuild the TT motor. Personally I've never been a rotor fan so it wouldn't be my first choice.
     
  3. entrancify

    entrancify New Member

    A rotary in a Z? That's sacrilege

    %(
     
  4. RedZedMikey

    RedZedMikey RZM should now be DZM

    What about a 5.7 litre LS1 Corvette >>>

    motor into a Z32?? Got the article at home in the latest issue of SportZ magazine.[image]http://www.sportzmagazine.com/images/Summer2004/cover_black_big.jpg[/image]
     
  5. peterj

    peterj Guest

    :|

    How does it fit into the tiny engine bay?!
     
  6. JediRuss

    JediRuss New Member

    I AM a rotary fan. But expensive if possible

    I would certainly agree that it would be cheaper to rebuild the TT-Zed engine.However....A 13B turbo conversion would probably not be worthwhile. They make less power and less torque than the TT-Zed. About 50kw less to start with. It is also a very different engine to drive than the TT-Zed-V6. There is no power or torque down low. If you want to get away quickly from a red light then you're going to need 3-4000rpm on board before the clutch is released. If not then you're going to bog down and be left behind.Now a 20B is different altogether. It is very un-rotary in the way it makes it's power. There is a wall of torque as soon as the turbo starts to boost. It is on a constant mission to headbutt the horizon. And the sound! Like a jet engine winding up. Glorious =) Unfortunately, if you don't have close to $6000 you probably can't afford to even buy the engine. Then you'll need a gearbox. They never came with a manual. So you can deal with the auto or use a Series 6-8 RX-7 box. The later ones are 6 speed. But they should all bolt on fairly easily. Engine mounts will need to be fabricated. The cooling system is an absolute priority with any rotary. So you'll need a good one.I don't think you could get out of the project without spending...$12,000? $15,000? Even $20,000 to get it done properly? I don't know...but a 20B twin sequential turbo in a 300ZX sounds like a bloody good thing to me =)
     
  7. red32

    red32 You talkin' to me?

    What about the effect on handling

    if you remove all that weight from the front end of the Zed? Really bad understeer springs to mind, and loss of grip under brakes may occur. If you want to "up-the-ante" for a Z32 by re-engineering it, consider putting a VQ35XXXX from the 350Z into it
     
  8. JT

    JT Track Addict

    If you remove weight from the front

    there will be less understeer, not more. If the 20B is really 350kg though it is at least as heavy as a VG30DETT anyway.
     
  9. DSZX

    DSZX New Member

    it fits and is actually lighter than VG30 ->

    Cuz its an alloy block. Also sits a bit lower ...i remember reading about some guy in america who had done it to his NA.
    I think it was actually posted on the forum ages back.
     
  10. panda

    panda New Member

    Seen pics of a 350 chev. Turboed in a Z

    Single turbo, huge, doubt there is much lag those V8 chev motors go hard. Weird what people put into there cars.
     

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