Respray Tips/Pointers

Discussion in 'Non Technical' started by 300zex, Oct 1, 2008.

  1. 300zex

    300zex Member

    Hi all. Attempting my first Respray soon. My dad is helping me and he has a little experience but i would still like to know some things. The respray isnt going to try and get a great one.. just one that looks mostly even and shiny. (unlike the paintjob now with peeling paintwork and scratches)

    So yeah, just wondering if anyone has some adivce or tips or tricks?
    Ill be using an acrylic, and a spray gun. And ofcourse ill be rubbing back (only all the way on the roof) and undercoating/painting/clear coating in all the correct amount of layers etc.
     
  2. FLEMING

    FLEMING Dave

  3. rollin

    rollin First 9

    My advice, dont even attempt a metallic. Id use 2pack materials, and solid colour with no need for clearcoat.
     
  4. AndyMac

    AndyMac Better than you

    You'd suggest a first timer to try 2pack? I would think acrylic as it's easier to work with.
     
  5. rollin

    rollin First 9

    Not if your doing the whole car. acrylic is only easier for blending and quicker drying times.

    I wouldnt paint anything other than my fridge in acrylic. petrol lifts it off with ease.
     
  6. 300zex

    300zex Member

    Then hopefully,

    I won't be putting petrol all over my car:p

    Um yeah i was told the 2pack is dangerous and although it creates a better finish, its harder to work with expeciall for a first timer.

    Im not sure about how much of the car we will do, roof bonet and fenders are top priority, but we are aware the colour will be different from the colour still on car so chances are we are going to lightly rub back the whole car and only apply a top coat over the good surfaces.

    Probably using the wrong terminology, but we have a pretty good idea of whats gonna happen and how to do it, just wanted some tips etc.

    Thanks for all responses so far.

     
  7. psycodelik

    psycodelik psyco led's

    you cant go past a good quality spray gun,

    if you've gone el cheapo it'll end up with dots and flecks in it from uneven spray, so your far better off spending the extra dosh at the beginning and buying a good quality gun
     
  8. heavytrevy

    heavytrevy "Hammer time "

    Acrylic is very forgiving for beginners :) u can sand out all ur mistakes :zlove:
    As for the 2 pac don't spray it without the proper saftey gear and a booth,
    Also its illegal to spray outside of a booth with this stuff. :eek:

    With a bit of work acrylic can look heaps better than 2 pac ever will just sand sand and more sanding :D

    Trev
     
  9. mrkarter77

    mrkarter77 No Really, They do!!!

    also get a decent regulator with water filter etc
     
  10. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    I'm doing this myself and will be going with acrylic. 2pac is highly toxic even if you use an air filter, to spray it your meant to use a full face mask with external air source and cover as much of your body as well. By running the face mask at a higher pressure than the outside it stops the vapors getting in. But yer it's highly toxic, a friend of mine who did some spray work for me and has been a painter for the last 20 or so years (before people realized this shit was bad for you) ended up getting lung cancer so I cannot stress enough the safety precautions.

    I bought two Devilbiss Finishline3 guns (2 tips in each kit + 1L cup HVLP), Devillbiss 2 Stage filtering system + Devilbiss wall mount regulator. The guns also have their own regulator and I'll probably chuck in another inline filter just to be 100% sure its all clean. Also went with new hoses and the biggest air compressor I could run on single phase power.

    If your serious about doing it right i'd go get some durablock or kblock sanding blocks. The flexible ones have been a dream, I've been doing practice work on some spare bits before I go at it and these have made matching the contour of the panel 100x better and if you get a nice big wide one you can really hammer through it.

    What everyone here has said is right though, prep prep prep. I'm not going back to bare metal but will be sanding it back a fair bit then cleaning up any rust with some rust converter. After that prime it up with a self etching primer (and maybe a combined sealer, not 100% on this yet). Once all those patches are cleaned up i'll attack all the chips dings and dents with body filler, i'm probably going to use one of the Rage brand (if I've remembered the name right) and make all that's right. Usually you want to do two goes just to make sure its right and of course sand back over it. Then i'm looking at using a high build primer (spray putty) to go over it all and then even it by blocking it heaps. Then it'd be priming and painting.

    I hope I have got that all right, feel free to tell me my plans are wrong.

    Recap
    * Clean off all grime (Important as you don't want to rub shit into your existing paint and make more of a mess)
    * Sand back paint
    * Fix rust + prime (self etching + sealer)
    * Prime any other bare metal areas
    * Fix dents/dings/dints with body filler
    * Spray putty or high build primer then sand back smooth (I've seen people use some spray paint or colour your using to lightly spray over to find all the high and low spots as they will show up when you block sand it)
    * Prime all over (light sanding inbetween??)
    * Colour (again do people light sand the colour inbetween??)
    * Clear (sand the clear??)
    * Buff + polish

    With that said i've got some books on order to read over yet.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2008

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