Hey guys, I have already tried a search, couldn't find anyone with the same problem.The problem is - it's only noticable in the wet, ie. wet roads, the rear end of the car seems to wander all over the place, all by itself. The only thing that I thought it could be is the HICAS, because if a suspension component was loose, it would do the exact same thing on a dry road, which I cannot feel it doing.The car actually moves so much at the back that I feel I have to slow the car down and correct it with steering alterations, for fear of spinning the car. It actually got so bad driving in the rain on the freeway one night (110km/h) that I had to pull over. Its scarey sometimes. I have pulled over a few times thinking I had a loose rear wheel, but everything felt solid.Its possible that my constant correction put it into some sort of resonant frequency. It has never happenned at speeds below 50km/h that I can notice.I am confident that its not simply the rear tyres loosing traction, as I am never applying enough power to break traction, often its whilst coasting.So if anyone has any ideas, I would love to hear them. I have not done a computer diagnostic yet, I suppose this is the place to start.thanks Ben
sounds dangerous... I cant imagine the hicas causing this. Again it should do the same in the dry. With symptoms like that though I would definately be taking it in to get the suspension, bearings etc thoroughly checked.
First thing I would check is the tyres >>> Have they been on the car a while? If so, is the wear pattern even or are the inside edges wearing more? I have found that with a fair amount of -ve camber causing the inside of the tyre to wear much quicker, the car darts about as variations in the road surface cause the tyres to shift their contact position with the road, which comes back either thru the wheel or through the bum as nervous or twitchy directional changes, and it is more noticeable in the wet. New tyres, problem gone.
Have you had a look at your tyres? It sounds like to me like you're starting to aquaplane. At 110kph on hotmix bitumen, most average tyres will really start to struggle to displace enough water for you to keep traction.If your tyres are low (ie near the limiters) I'd be looking at some new rubber.
Get wheel alignment done and get Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3. Top tyre in the wet, bar none. That would eliminate your nerves, just like I did. I can gun it in the wet as well as in the dry. Get some for the rear and if it doesn't do it, it has to be the suspension. I got Direzza at my front tyre and went into a patch of sand, the front skids but not the rear even thought Z is a rear wheel driver. Surely your problem would be tyres first, suspension second. And if you want to, you can take HICAS out. Weight saving of around 30-40kg :?) .Usually you would break traction in low speed condition in the wet easily. Losing it at high speed is unusual and dangerous, but like franz said, the tyre would likely be maxed out in the water drainage department.
if its not breaking traction its NOT your ty res unless they are slicks and your aqua-planing Get it checked asap. I can break traction in 3rd and 4th pretty easily in the rain on the freeway but you do feel the car kick out and definately feel the wheel spin, i also have 255 michelin piolets on the rear with heaps of tread, so im guessing something is wrong with your hicas??
Pilot sports 2 on your rears? Is it good? They reckon this tyre is the new king, finally trumping GS-D3?
they are pilot alpine the tread is pretty mu ch the same but i think they are softer. Awesome in the wet!!! Screech like hell in the dry though but they do grip better than the 265 potenzas i had on there before.
I would have to go with Mike here Get a wheel alignment. While they are doing that get them to check your shocks and Bushes. If you are running to much negative camber your rear end will start tram tracking (Having a mind of its own.) Making the car fee really unstableCheersAnthony
what price did you get them for? never heard of pilot alpine. But I guess if it's the same tread as PS2, then it's just rose by another name. Good to hear. How many Ks have you done on them?
$80 each from a place in tulla. Had about 90 % tread on them. Ive done about 6-7000k's on them with a fair bit of abuse when i first put them on and the tread is down to about 70-80%. I think u can get them new for around $250 each in that size.
My rear tyres are slicks (ie, bald) I had a big reply written, but computer must be playing up, it was never diplayed.Anyway, I never thought of aquaplaning, both insides of each rear tyre is bald, indicating a fair bit of negative camber. Is this adjustable??The LHS is worse than the RHS, I would have thought that the LSD would even this out??I think it must be more to do with an uneven road surface and negative camber, making the tyres follow the road contours, as it really darts around, its not the smooth sort of floating feeling of normal aquaplaning, which i have experienced when hitting a biiiggg puddle at high speed on the freeway. It just floated, happened a few times.Anyway, i have 235/45ZR17 on rear, and need new tyres, but i need more dry traction, so was thinking of a 255/45. Its only got 8" wide on the rear. I checked out the michelins, the pilot sport looks nice (pilot alpine wasn't listed), but they are about $600 retail, nice price!! My 16" race rubber only costs $350 each.will have to look into it.thanks for help Ben
please check my last post again, it used to be a (n/m), but I have edited it, and asked some questions. thanks Ben
Have a look at Dunlop fm902's should cost you around 300 a corner.CheersNegavive camber isnt adjustable unless you fix aftermaket rear suspention components.CheersAnthony.
