Trying to open my ptu (series 1), do you dremel along inside the line on the back, or do you dremel just inside of that indent on it's back? cause I'm going quite deep inside that ditch, but can't seem to get the back off.
I just pryed mine off with a small screwdriver along the inside section. Its full of sticky clear goo, not sure how you would go about getting it all off before repairing it...
I cut on the inside bit of the indent. DON'T GO TO DEEP! I just used a stanly knife with a fresh blade, worked well. All that silicone goo is a pain, I wouldn't remove it, looks like it's there to help with vibration and heat. You have to scrape it away to solder, I just sort of spread it out again once I was done.
OK got it off. I'm wondering, does my PCB look different due to being a different model? It's definitely series 1. Anyway, onto the the testing. That silicon is nasty.
I (my dad) resoldered my S1 PTU in my first zed twice but it didn't seem to hold. As Crispy says, we just moved the goo aside to solder and then respread it. Ended up getting a S2. It sounds like a couple of you at least had more success than me. I'm interested to know because my new zed still has a S1.
I just had a look at mine. All the joins look solid. So now I need another reason it was randomly stalling. There was some corrosion on the connections, so I'll clean them, move it and hope for the best tomorrow.
You have to use silver solder for some reason. Really hard to make it stick... My trouble was with the earth, which is in the bottom right hand corner.
Mine were all fine. Which annoyed me. I just resealed it, cleaner off the corrosion on the connections (was quite a bit) and now it seems ok. Of course, I'll give it a couple more days before being happy. It's kind of cable tied in at the moment, I'll be replacing it with a series 2 ASAP.
I had a burnt out track on the circuit board, I ended up bypassing it with a bit of wire. Dodgy connections always cause trouble with these, just go a S2 and be done with it.
IB and Zcar91 have had considerable experience in fixing these, and use Alusol Flux when soldering(due to the wires being an alloy).:zlove::zlove: P.S. Those pics look like the PTU casing is a molded black plastic(S1 PTU's are a silver/grey alloy finned casing).
The pic is of the back, Lloyd..... To access the internals you must enter through the back of the ptu, which is the black plastic panel you're describing. The alloy "heatsink fins" you refer to are on the front.
The only Series 1 PTU's that I have seen, are completely alloy casings(except for the rear flat centre panel). But you may be correct, as I have only ever seen two(off the car)mine had a Series 2 when I bought it.:zlove::zlove:
True that... Yes, amazing isn't it. that fine little earth wire that lifts off the terminal can stop the zed cold!!!
Oh well, just bought a new one. Car died again tonight, so I don't know what the problem is with the thing, and hopefully it is the problem. Seems likely, not much else will make only the engine die and then not let the car restart for a minute or two, except maybe some other electrics. Oh well, good to get it replaced regardless and hopefully will solve the problem.
