Did a couple of relocates to begin the process of tidying up my engine bay and also did a coolant reservoir relocate to keep a better eye on its operation (I have had problems with it blocking up) and it also allows gravity to work in its favour and allows more airflow past the intercooler: Remove PTU Disconnect temp sensors and remove PTU loom Strip back as shown and retape loom as required Reposition relays and route wires as shown Use a bolt of appropriate length to remount PTU. The temp sensor wires can be run just behind the timing belt cover. It should look a little nicer and makes the PTU easier to access. Coolant reservoir relocate. Reusing the stock bottle only works if you have a smaller battery but much cheaper than an aftermarket bottle ($0 . Remove hoses and reservoir Find space for reservoir in front of battery. Reconnect hose. You will need a slightly longer hose. Be careful it follows a smooth path with no kinks. You can cut down the plastic probe to the appropriate length and reuse the cap too. I keep a plastic funnel next to the bottle too.
Throttle cable reroute: Pretty straight forward. Just make sure the bends are large radius etc. Should look a little nicer now with the cover back on.
PTU has enough loom length to go under the nose panel with ease - why not put it there? Wouldn't call moving the overflow to the battery tray "cleaning up the bay". if you've had problems with it blocking up, do a coolant flush and replace/blast out the overflow hose. If you want to move the air flow out of the way of the intercooler, one of these will fit inside the passenger fender. The new hose will need to be run alongside the loom at the top of the fenderwell (like the washer lines on the driver's side) but it will operate the same as the original. What's the go with your pipework? Are you running a TT naturally aspirated?
I wanted the PTU as easy as possible to access. Every now and then I get a recurring misfire gremlin. It only happens during moderate to heavy throttle so I'm guessing its spark related? My PTU has already been resoldered so I'm guessing it could be that. Yeah unfortunately I'm on a strict budget and the 300ZX is the only car I have. I've been daily driving it for years. Turbos have been shot since I bought it so I just drilled and tapped a bolt through them and rerouted the intake. They'll have to wait until I can save up some more pennies... I still get 50% duty cycles from the injectors so I'm guessing around 150hp? Not too bad but the exhaust is waaay noisier without the turbos
Check your Injector plugs mate. If they have never been replaced or looked at in years they are bond to have this green corrosion all over the points! It even runs up the wire a bit, so usually new injector plugs w/pigtails are a good idea. Also if they have been removed at some stage, check to see if someone has done the lazy on you and didn't replace the little bit of wire that holds the plug on the injector (if they are OEM). If that wire is missing from the plug there is a fair chance your misfire is from the plug coming off and on the injector. I had this exact issue when I had the OEM plugs and one was missing that wire from the plug. It constantly came off and on every now and then.
Thanks man. Definitely all the plugs are quite corroded and I've battled with them in the past. But now they're sorted, I think... I'm not sure what you mean by this wire. Is there a picture of it? The advice I have been given is that its likely spark related due to the nature of it working on light throttle but not heavy throttle. Unfortunately it's been very difficult to diagnose precisely due to the intermittent / unpredictable nature of it. Might visit someone with the Blitz tool soon I think.
Sorry that was confusing, They looks like this> The wrap around the plug to hold it onto the Injectors. Did you buy new plugs or just tried to clean em up? Is your PTU S2 or S1?
Can't see that image sorry. I actually just bent the pins sideways a bit so that the female side would have a better grip and thus better contact. It seems to have done the trick. Definitely new connectors are in the pipeline. I have a series 1 PTU which has been resoldered on one of the points.
Oh I know what you mean now. Yeah I'll have to check... Thanks. It reminds me of the fact that, at one point, I had a very strategically placed bolt between the balance pipe and the injector just to hold the damn thing down tight enough. Haha
Alright....all you need to do is S2 PTU & new Injector connectors. Get the Connectors of off my mate Ol' Baz > http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=310076 I spent hours cleaning my Injector Pins, THEY WERE BAD! I used a mix of a blade to scrape off the corrosion, Electrical spray,and a soft bristle wire brush (you can get pack from supercheap, they look like tooth brushes)....I went through all my plugs and pins throughout the bay. Its a good cheap job to do that should boost reliability.
It's the low fluid sensor for the hicas. Usually the culprit of the hicas warning lamp coming on. Hence why most people say to check the fluid level in the " hicas light is on" threads
