well i just changed the water pump and timing belt on my zed and have encountered a few probs. firstly after everything is back together i have a small miss at idle... its like a popping noise coming out of the driver side exhaust only. Once its under any sort of load it goes away. i know this could be a million different things but thought i would ask anyway. secondly. when i was putting it back together i installed a greddy profec b spec II boost controller. now in the cabin i think im ok, and the only part that im questioning is running the lines that go to the actuators into parallel before i connected it to the solenoid. i think the line running to the solenoid is the one that comes off the bottom of the outside intake pipe? If so i really dont know where i went wrong and ill take it to a pro but if this is wrong could i grab some advice. The car runs fine and the boost controller reads when i drive it, like the peak boost comes up and everything. One last request, could someone post the settings for running the car at 14psi as the controller runs at a % of the wastegates maximum limit and i dont know wat that is... so yeah if someone uses one, could they please help me out? thanks guys and sorry for the list of problems
Some answers... If you've just done the water pump and timing belt, your popping noise that's just coming from the right hand side only sounds like it could be a backfire or massive vacuum leak. (if you haven't touched the exhaust at all). Maybe try doing a boost/vacuum leak test (write up in tech section), and also even put a timing light on your crank pulley to check it isn't a tooth out. If that comes back ok, then check all electrical connections in the engine bay. ie, injector, coilpack, ptu, cas, afm, etc... regarding your EBC setup. I'm having a little trouble understanding exactly what you have setup there currently, but all you need to make sure is that the actuator lines are roughly equal length and join into a "T" piece, then from there the hose goes to the "COM" nipple on your EBC solenoid. Then the other nipple goes to any pressurised vacuum source. ie, intake charge pipe, plenum, balance pipe, etc... regarding setting up the EBC on YOUR car for 14psi, there's no fixed actual setting that will give you exactly 14psi. The gains will vary from car to car and depends on how strong your actuator springs are and how much maximum boost your turbos will hold. It may be more or less than the next zed up the road, so you will have to experiment a little with the settings to get it to suit your individual car. The manual for the GReddy profec B, Spec 2 has pretty detailed instructions on how to setup this in the back few pages. Do you have the manual? if not here's a LINK to the PDF manual. Other than this, i know member MagicMike is a bit of a guru at setting up these EBC's (he helped me set my gains up). Try PM'ing him if you still have trouble getting the settings right. There's a start for you.
thanks benny c, very helpful. Prettys ure the teeth are right but i will do another boost/vacuum leak test just to be sure. yeah with the boost controller, i know the settings can be different, but i just wanna know wat roughly is the max output of stock turbos. Cos at the moment i have read the manual and it says "100% will boost upto wastegates/turbochargers limit" im sorry but i have no clue wat that is and im kinda worried if i set the % too high i might damage the engine. so does anyone know a rough number for the max of our turbos so i can start setting percentages?
Start low (maybe 40%) and work your way up to desired boost pressure. It does take a bit of playing around to get them right. Just keep your spike boost pressure at a safe range like 15psi so if you don't accidently push the gain too high, the set spike level will pull you back down again if it goes over 15psi that way.
Careful with the timing belt. I've seen a few engines lately that snap the intake sprocket locater pin. So although you have the belt lined up correctly according to the pulleys it is actually off. If you remove the intake cam sprocket bolts you should be able to look down the key way and see the locating pin. If you can't it's broken...
ok... so the the original popping noise is now combined with the disappearance of water... the radiator slightly bubbling... oh and lets not forget the lovely smell of fuel in the radiator. So yeah the conclusion by most would be a blown head gasket... Now i have to decide whether to change it... or drive it into a canyon... Seeing as there arent many canyons in sydney... i guess ill just change it. My old man is a mechanic and hes coming round to the idea of doing it... but it would make it easier to convince him if there was any step by step guides that anyone knows of. I have searched though the tech section and found some helpful stuff but wondering if anyone can help with this? Also can anyone suggest in sydney someone to call about getting the heads done and purchasing some kits. "With Simons help I was able to get all my necessary gaskets as well as some replacement PCV hoses for a much better price. All up the whole job including machining cost $520. Not too bad." this was found in the help section and i was wondering how to find this simon? if he is in syd? and if he can help out? any response is greatly appreciated
Simon runs a online Zed parts store, but is horribly unreliable. I'd be getting the parts from Coz or Z1 in the states. Changing the headgaskets is the same as any other motor really. Pull the engine out, pull the thing down. Deck the heads, make sure the block is straight and everythign else is OK. Make sure you use new headbolts as they are the TTY and are not reusable. The workshop manual is quite good and details everything quite well.
