Has anyone done a plenum water hose bypass for a NA 300zx? Or know of a guide for the NA one? Also I read somewhere you don't have to take the plenum off to do it unless you wanted to remove all pipes with it and I just wanted to know if I can just do the bypass? at this point in time I don't care to much about removing the extra bits of metal pipes, I just want to get her running with out spitting water all over the place. Reason I want to do it, is because the other day I park my car and it could hear something so I look under it and all this water was pissing out the back of the engine, driving her home she was starting to over heat every time I stop at a set of lights. I have already flush the radiator out and put new coolant in it, she doesn't seem to spit water until she has warm up/presser has built up.
You need to PRESSURE TEST the cooling system to determine where the leak is. There are hose to pipe connections at the rear of the engine, it's possible one of these hoses is defective or one of the pipes may have corroded. You may have to remove the plenum in order to access these components. DON'T drive the vehicle until you've fixed the leak, or you may be looking for a replacement engine.
This is the first Mod most owners do to their cars to prevent the water leak issues of old hoses. In an NA it is straight forward, a TT on the other hand is a little trickier as you have to reroute two hoses. At the back of the motor are two water hard pipes that supply water for the heater. Branching off of those hard pipes are a smaller hose, one per hard pipe. The smaller branch line has to be capped to do the bypass. Good luck on getting to those small hoses to cap them with the plenum on. Its way easier to remove the plenum and the cost of a $20 "caterpillar" gaskit (so called because of its shape) to access the pipes, clean the underside, and tighten the cam covers (oil leak prevention). Hope this helps.
Thanks for the help, I also found this little vid on it for NA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WnTkPpQ6aw and I think the person that own it before me has done it/try to do it, there is a hose at the back with a kink in it that seems to go to the same spots. so I'm guessing I'll be fixing what he had done to it. what size silicon hose is it? a 6mm?
Yeah it made it easy seeing a video of it. Can anyone tell me what this hose is for? The one with a kink in it, I also highlighted with white. It's been like that since I got it and the mechanics didn't say anything about it when they had a look at the car
heater core inlet and outlket pipes. so your heaters been bypassed and wont work. common. unfortunately for you, theyve done a pretty poor job with that kink in it. needs to be a smooth unkinked curve for water to flow through. put it on your list of things to fix.
yeah I try to find a pipe that size that wouldn't kink and couldn't find one. then I got home and then thought I could get a pipe the same size and get a bigger one to go over the top of that one to stop it from kinking, but if its for the heater I think I might want that working for when winter comes around if that is the only reason it isn't working. Thanks for letting me know what it is for
The reason it's kinked is it's too short! You'd better check the heater core BEFORE you reattach the hoses to it.
There isn't much room for a longer hose, but ill try it with a longer one. Ah yes, I'll do that thanks. For a update, I did the plenum water hose bypass on the side it was leaking with out taking the plenum off, so that will do for now till I move to a better place with more room to do stuff. Does anyone know a good site to get silicone hose's in green?
In my humble opinion, it doesnt matter if its kinked, it would be the same as having the water to the heater valve shut, as is the normal position in sunny Qld
I do still hear water running in that pipe, but I'm not sure. it has to be replace anyway, has a lot of shit in it, I've been trying to clean out not fun
