Just some shots and musings from plenum pull. All up it's not a hugely difficult task, but it certainly is time consuming. At least moderate knoweldge of what various things in a Z engine bay are is probably required. I'd also recommend replacing the plenum gasket as it doesn't always come off in one piece, and likewise throttle body and IAC gaskets if you are removing these items (depends what you're doing with it off). I would also recommend getting new PCV tubes as these go hard and may have to be cut off. Also, do yourself a favour and bypass the under plenum water lines.... what an unnecessary mess!Haha! Half way there! [image]http://yoyo.its.monash.edu.au/~blipman/trash/plenum1.jpg[/image]Check out these big ugly lips where the lower plenum meets the heads..... very average work Nissan, and I'd heard so many good things about the intake flow of Japanese cars [image]http://yoyo.its.monash.edu.au/~blipman/trash/plenum2.jpg[/image] Note the purple Nismo 555 injectors, and typical build up of green crap therein.Soooo many hours of my life wasted on this thing [image]http://yoyo.its.monash.edu.au/~blipman/trash/plenum3.jpg[/image]The boys considering (a bit too seriously for my liking!) just how well a VG30DETT will fit into a VG30E engine bay. [image]http://yoyo.its.monash.edu.au/~blipman/trash/plenum4.jpg[/image]Job went without too many hitches other than the PTU dying on me as mentioned earlier, and the water heater core hoses also started leaking shortly afterwards (they were real bad.... I see more more water hose related surprises in my future).A warning. Do NOT buy the CRAP silicone hoses from Repco they sell coiled up in a pack of 3 different sizes. They are rubbish: [image]http://yoyo.its.monash.edu.au/~blipman/trash/vachose.jpg[/image] I mean, FFS, all a vacuum hose has to be able to do is withstand some VACUUM! Is that really such a big ask.... to adequately perform its sole intended purpose?! Still fuming, and they cost a fricking mint to.... going to be a fun argument with the Repco dude behind the counter tomorrow. Paul, check yours man, they're probably doing the same.And finally a question: Can someone confirm that I've got it the right way around? This, as I understand it, is 1 degree RETARDED. Correct? [image]http://yoyo.its.monash.edu.au/~blipman/trash/camgear.jpg[/image]Ben
looks like 1 degree advanced to me the gear is 1 degree clockwise past it's original spot so it's advanced.
No... with the gear in place the TEETH will be 1 degree anti-clockwise to where they otherwise would have been [image]http://yoyo.its.monash.edu.au/~blipman/trash/camgear.jpg[/image]See why I asked? It's tricky.Ben
A question for you..... what is that shiny thing (last pic in your post). It looks like the front of the CAS, but not. I dont remember mine looking like that?
ben You should definitely do a write up for tech Ben, Please. That would be great and would help many (well mainly me, but anyway). Come on, you know you want to.
Actually I know I don't want to! I thought about it but was pressed for time and didn't take many photos. There is also a fairly good tech for plenum removal elsewhere on the net.Ben
You could be right Ben It depends on your perspective, for the sake of sanity think of the teeth on the belt as immovable. 'Nother question, is that one degree (either way) at the camshaft or crank? You are so right about the plenum exercise. Mine came off to rectify a blown coolant hose and an oil leak, in February. That was before the motor came out! Definately doing the bypass routine, subtract EGR routine, find the AIV's as well. Very fidley and time consuming. Henry
Finished the exact same job On saturday, exchanged the plenum for one i polished earlier, also eliminated all the unecessary coolant hoses under there, plumbing the coolant direct to the turbos, fitted a new coolant temp sensor and plug to same,replaced some old boost lines ( found one broken one) match ported the plenum and the inlet manifold, cleaned as many electrical contacts as i could find, result= definately boosting better and pulling a lot harder. Hey Ben that sure is some corrosion you've got on those injector plugs, got to work better when thats cleaned.:YD
The port missmatch as bad between plenum and manifold as it is between manifold and head Wiz? With the coolant bypass, did you bypass the FICD as well? Henry
Match porting You can see in the second pic where you can see down two of the ports the over lap of the face of the inlet port to the head. It is the thin shiny bit seen at the bottom of the port. This is the case with all zeds I have been checking out lately. For slightly smoother air flow and thus power this can only be match ported with heads of the car otherwise alloy filings will go into the motor. You can match the valley to plenum though with gasket. Yes you will need to change the valley to plenum gasket which is paper and only about $20 or so. Try not to think about this slight restriction Ben or others or you will get frustrated knowing it is there hey?
Even worse Henry Had to remove quite a bit of metal to get them to match up, should have taken some pics but as usual in to much of a hurry to get the job done.:YD
1 degree reatrded... to answer your question. Im 99% sure of this. I dont know which adjustable cam gears you got but I got the JUN ones and Im sure they had written on them which was which, or maybe it was in the instructions.
I think you have it backwards ---> If you look at what you have done to the cam you have rotated it ACW in relation to the cam belt.Maybe this photo might clear it up of a HKS Nissan Cam? (A=Advance (left) and R=Retard (right))Click Here
I still reckon it's advanced plus>> it would be 2 degrees advanced cause remember that 1 degree advanced at the cam means 2 degrees at the crank since the cams do 720 degress for every 360 degrees the crank does.Try looking at it this way. The teeth are kept stationary so that the timing dot on the cam teeth line up with the timing mark on the back plate behind the cam gears. Now you have turned the center of the cam gear physically 1 degree clockwise which has also turned the cam 1 degree clockwise. This means the exhaust valves will be opening earlier and hence advanced timing.Now if it was a honda engine then it would be retard cause the engines in them rotate anti-clockwise.
If the engine spins anticlockwise (looking from the front, then it is 1 cam deg retarded. If it spins clockwise it will be advanced.
OK, now I'm crosseyed... the cam belt/gear is attached to the shiney bit, yes? The bolts and the not so shiney bit are attached to the cam? The rotatory direction is clockwise.. If little mark lined up with big mark = status quo (no change) As example, little mark get to original position one position after big mark = retarded. Now, Hondas have a big mark and if it is not in the right position it might be going the right way, like us. Would they then have five reverse gears? This is starting to get crazy..
Don't pack away your tools I'm bring mine around for you to do Seriously, what tool did you use to grind away the metal and match the ports?
