Hey there everyone... sorry for being so quiet for a while but been very busy at work and the Zed has been off the road with a water leak ....(under the plenum) hence my following question. Setting the scene: Plenum is OFF. once removed we found the electrical connector (Pictured Below) was not connected ... it was just tucked under the plenum out of the way ... both parts are there so when putting together I can just push it back together .... my question though is what is it for. The location is Passenger side (RHD Vehicle) towards front of engine and it seems to lead to some sort of cannister with vacuum hoses on it.. could be wrong there though.. damn I thought with the plenum off I might finally get a glimpse of my Turbos... hehehehe but there is still no room to see heheheee . There seems to be similar on the drivers side but very hard to tell... Any help appreciated TAzZie
So what would the effect be So what would the effect be is the passenger side one was not connected... Car was running fine ....???? I'm thinking not having it conected would be a BAD thing????
do you have a boost controller or jets installed? If so you'll most likely find that both are disconnected. If only one is disconnected one side will boost lower than the other.
the effect would be with only on side connected,is if for some reason the ecu tried to put the engine into safty, only one soleniod would get the message. so one turbo is still boosting at 9psi, the other 7psi.
Actually the opposite would happen. When the safety boost solenoids are disconnected it bypasses the inline restrictor and the turbo will only boost to 7PSI so all this time one turbo has been working harder than the other.
dunno about that mate.. ive had mine disconnected for ages (when i did my plenum pull).. and my car boosted to 9psi all the time after that
Well if the car was in safty, both sides would be running 7psi, it wouldn't matter if one, or both soleniods were connected! the soleniods would be open bleeding off preasure. If there closed the preasure should be 9psi, not in safty! If you dissconect one solenion it wont open from that action, and is still running 9psi on that side, as far as i no!
I'll have to look for the schematic later but yes Beaver you are correct saying that in safety boost both solenoids would be off so both turbo's will be at 7PSI but when not in safety boost, the solenoid that is still connected will divert pressure to the restrictor and control the turbo at 9PSI. The solenoids are configured this way in the unlikely event should power not reach the solenoids and the ECU needs to activate safety boost, it will already be at the correct pressure. Basically it is a fail safe, power to solenoids 9PSI, no power 7 PSI. Minivan, not sure why you were still boosting to 9PSI with them disconnected but let me assure you that was not supposed to happen.
well to be honest.. that was using the stock boost guage.. i only ever checked the boost before i did it(unplugged em) with an after market boost guage.. but i doubt very much that i could have run a 13.77 quarter on 7psi.. and the stock boost guage was going to the same place as when i checked the boost with my AM guage... *shrugs* or maybe i did check afterwards.. oh i dunno they were still fully plumbed in, just not plugged in (i snipped the wires, heat shrinked the end of em and taped em back into the loom) no boost controller either i always figured that the solenoid was charged for safety boost and off for normal boost
My after market guage indicates 13.5psi and I never (Seem to) have had safety boost. Suppose I will just connect it when it all goes back tomorrow...
I've had my Zed for over a year and never had safety boost come on. Most common causes is a faulty detonation sensor or Water Temperature Sensor. A bad batch of fuel or too lower octane fuel causing a decent knock will also trigger safety boost. Remember too that safety boost not only lowers boost pressure but the ECU will also run a knock fuel and timing map which is really rich and retarded ignition timing. If you were running 13.5PSI boost before, I seriously doubt hooking them back up is going to prove anything. I am running an EBC now with GT28R turbos and do not intend on trying to create any safety boost system, but I will make a seriously detuned knock map when I tune my ECU so if a problem is detected by the ECU, the engine will run that sick I will know about it!
No your not gunna blow up! I suggest you unplug both sides,or better still get rid off both soleniods, and run the vac line directly to the actuator. When a TT is started first time for the day, the ecu opens the soleniods (safty) untill it reaches opperating tempture.
Unplug them both... & control the boost from your controller. When looking under the bonnet I found that one side was still plugged in, bit of a worry really. I don't like the idea of one bank working a lot harder than the other, it's unfair
