Piston compress tool. What to use when changing brake pads?

Used old pad and screwdriver method. Worked well with bit patience. Took two hrs but better than $195 at shop. Thanks guys. Paid $155 for bendix ultimate. Did I pay too much?

 

lol ouch bendix ultimates are 80 to 92 bucks front or rear !!

 

No worries, glad to hear it worked!

 

I've been using the "Brake pad/G-clamp method" for the best part of 54yrs, and have NEVER seen(or heard of)anyone experiencing that problem.
By the time that you can claim a similar time period to support your theory, I WILL BE DEAD(54yrs beats 10yrs, hands down).
Methinks you worry too much.:rofl::br:

 

Yes, I'm another long time "brake pad-G clamp" user. I also never had seal issues lol.

But occasionally come across seized caliper pistons that need some TLC

 

Hah..Yer! Just wind the G clamp harder!! If it breaks, get a bigger one!!!!!!
NEVER fails!!!!!!!!

Also, what that old timer said a further post up!!!!!

E

 

From where? Over east? Repco quoted $180.
Bendix distributors quoted $155 RRP. Unless it is whole sale rate.
Rears are $80. But fronts are more expensive if I am correct.

 

Possible to screw up the seals well enough on the threaded hand brake rears some euros have by applying too might direct force.

 

Show me!!! Or, someone was using UNREASONABLE force and not square on!
A brake piston in a cylinder with a static seal and pushed back reasonably squarely, it is IMPOSSIBLE to damage the seal. End of story

Damage the piston and/or the cylinder by cocking the piston over due to brute force not applied squarely? That is another story.
E

 

I wouldn't get too hung up on using Bendix Ultimates. Horrible and expensive pad that is filthy dirty. I have NEVER seen a set of pads eat through a rotor as quick as Ultimates.

You would be better off buying a set of QFM HPX pads, Better, cheaper and cleaner. I would take the Bendix Ultimates back. They are the Ultimate FAIL..

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/QFM-HPX-...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565320255d

Use THESE.................

 

Agreed. They are dusty and chew up very quickly. Next time I will go with this one. Any idea if there is a reseller in WA?

Found it http://brakesdirect.com.au/aus/contacts/

 

All this g-clamp vs screw driver vs crowbar.

I have used screw driver between old pads on smaller motorcycle calipers so I would have assumed that something bigger like a crowbar would be ideal.

Decided to try the g-clamp centred over the old pad method (on the family Commodore) and it gets my vote. I loosened the brake fluid resorvoir and slowly compressed the brake pistons with the g-clamp to be safer

Can't imagine something better than a g-clamp for this job.

 

wish I had clicked Shane's link

PS. I can't believe it took 2 hours (like Kabir).
When I thought about it, I realised that the only multi piston brake calipers I had changed myself were motorbike and even then, I pulled the caliper off the disc and wedged and spread with some kind of standard tool.

Commodores and bikes = quick/easy

Looking at the Zed, I decided to leave the caliper on the disc and slide the pads out.
Standard G-clamp and a piece of wood wasn't going to fit for this job. I tried to buy a sliding G-clamp (tektrader's pic) but the auto shops, tool shops and hardware store scratched their heads. Found it online and was referred to a local shop, but they didn't have in stock. They tried to sell me the 'bolt through the metal plate' style that Supercheap sells. (probably works great for a Commodore).
Wish I had clicked Shane's link, I can see this work be exactly what I need, it would save hours.

I ended up using a crowbar (cracked the bleed nipple because the piston would not budge) and slotting the old pad sideways on the neighbouring piston and then slotting the new pad sideways while I depressed the next piston.

So annoyed at how tedious the job was that I CBF fitting the underbrace. So take that Zed.[TIS]
Next time, this

 

A g-clamp is the right way to go about it.

I've always been told using a lever can cause the piston to jam and score the bores as force is not being evenly applied.

That being said i always use a lever, but try and keep it as center as possible to avoid any damage.

If i ever had to do it for the Zed, G-clamp for sure.

 

No good for zed calipers though?

These are only good for sliding calipers. ie pistons on one side only.

 

I have seen these and agree with S
These are useless for Zed calipers (or brembo from what I have seen).
A single piston or one side with pistons style caliper, is what that bolt through the plate is designed for. Compare this to a g-clamp pulling the old brake pad in, also works for that style. Trying to use it on Zed calipers looked like it would only push on part of the edge of the pistons, which is the same as the lever/ crowbar.
There doesn't seem to be a good way to use on a Zed, but I might not have the knack for the bolt through the plate because Supercheap says that all the mechanics use it.