Having had my overheating problem, and spending a lot of time reading others posts on the matter, i have a few questions that ive never seen answered or more importantly, asked. Question 1. Does anyone know the actual tolerance range of the VG30DETT? as in what temperature will the heads actually warp? Question 2. At what temperature are you most likely to cause head gasket failure? Question 3. When a head gasket has gone, can the heads be removed with the turbos still attached and the engine still in the car. Think that should give everyone something to discuss lol. look forward to seeing the replies if people know.
and i remember one long run to a Zedfest where Chrispy's then Zed managed to get to around 130 (?) degrees and continued on .... that was an adventure, indeed.
I've hit 130 degrees c while beating the engine to death in burnout comps a few years ago with no damage done, head gaskets were fine, no damage to bores etc. Stock gages are crap but if you stop the car as the gage is getting towards the top you should be OK so long as the motor was otherwise relatively healthy and with good oil. If you are driving along and only stop because you have noticed a lack of power = most likely killed it good and proper. You CAN pull the heads from a TT engine with it in the car BUT it is not the most professional approach to the task based on a number of factors, quality of job is reduced by trying to cut corners and leave the block in there, the job wont be any faster doing it this way but if space is limited (IE no room for a crane etc) then this option could be considered. If you have a super nice paint job I would just get the engine pulled and do it that way, all that work in the engine bay will only increase the risk of paint damage.
who knows, my Z warped heads, melted two pistons (no. 5 & 6) while my reliable aftermarket Temp gauge stayed on 90 Degrees! When I pulled the engine down there was still coolant in the radiator & engine block but eventually found a major, major blockage of scale & rust in the water galleries between No 5 & 6 cylinders which must have caused localised overheating, however my temp gauge didn't move the whole time.
Yep, it sure did get hot! Engine survived the rest of the trip (with the addition of more coolant and a bypassed heater) and the trip back and another few months of driving. I did a comp test before pulling out for the V8 and it was all good I'd imagine that the heads would have softened somewhat though.
Oh....... I dont know... A uniform increase of 30 deg.C over what is considered normal running temps, say up to 800deg.C combustion temp V's 100deg.C water temp have any effect on ally metalurgy.... nah, cant see it! So long as the coolant actually stays in there, its unlikely to make much difference at all (the running temp) in my view.
Agreed, if there is still a good percentage of coolant in the engine, head damage doesn't usually happen. When you have no coolant left, the combustion temps will rise quite alot. That is when damage is done to both pistons and heads.
