hey guys, i bought a davies graig 14" thermo fan short kit which has no wiring, now i was wondering what everyone thought of me using the wiring off the ac thermo fan considering i ditched my ac set up as i barely used it plus its not a daily, then letting the ecu/water temp sensor control it as i can adjust when the ac fan comes on in nistune. thoughts or am i a lost idiot lol
I did exactly that (davies craig 14", nistune, front mount the fan though) for the rad setup with my V8. Worked great. Not sure if I would like to do that with a TT though, generally the 16" thermo's aren't big enough to cool it. I would do as Rob said.
Does not that original Aux fan run according to engine coolant temp as well as in conjunction with the A/C? As above, the standard clutchfan/shroud and aux fan arrangement is unbeateable. But the question was about using the stock wiring. Well it would be the logical choice no? Its already there, its ready to go and talks to the ECU. IMHO, Id simply ditch the aftermarket fan and refit a stock aux fan. No fabrication and no re-wiring to do. No brainer M8 L8r E L8r E
I run the E fan set up on my TT ( custom shroud + 16 inch spal fan ,rated at 2050 CFM ) . IMO , even if you let the david crag 14 inch fan run constantly , it is still insufficiency to cool the VG30DETT engine . If you want to run E fan set up , better go with 16inch fan and a good custom shroud . and yes , you can use nistune to control the fan , but the David crag 14 inch e fan just not up to the task . My E fan set up work perfectly , even on the hot day like today in Melbourne ( 36*C ) . But the fan has to run flat out to keep engine temp at around 84*C , normal I see my temp around 80*C .
+ I just went back to my clutch fan. I was using a 16" davies craig with a triple pass twin core, the fan had to run quite a lot to keep her cool. I really deleted because the davies craig fan controller was ball's Also, the ac's thermo fan is set to come on at over 105' deg's, so DO NOT tap a thermo fan into that is going to be the only fan connected to your radiator. I suggest, if you really want to run a thermo fan set up, get a 16" spal fan, and spal electronic fan controller.
This thread may help if you really want to go the e-fan route. http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=190145&highlight=taurus+fan&page=4 The Taurus E-fan is plenty up to the task of providing adequate CFM's. It is a 2 speed sealed fan of Ford oem design/make so it's ruggedness and endurance abilities should work well for a long time. The Taurus e-fan can be purchased from RockAuto (in the USA) brand new for about $70.00. It comes with it's own shroud and that should can be cut/modified to seal a TT rad. The benefit of having a 2 speed fan is that you will use less power to operate it during normal cruising use and can be triggered to it's high speed during significant temperature demands and then triggered/cycled back down to low speed when the need is no longer present for the high speed. Of course this would entail the need for a 2 speed fan controller. I got one from a company that has been making them for years for hot rods and muscle cars and heavy duty trucks and 5th wheels. The link to that relay from Holister Road is also contained within that link. Although I haven't done my e-fan conversion as of yet, I've got all the necessary quality parts in place. The sensor(s) I'm using for the fan relay are also noted in that thread and cost ~ $9.00. I got two of them as I plan on welding two separate sensor bungs into my AMS rad. The sensors have a 2way sensor switching mechanism. They also have a very low temperature threshold (read turn on and and turn off points) to it. By having two separate sensors in two distinct locations I can switch the relay leads to either one to give me the best (optimal) cooling capabilities of the 2 speed fan. But only one sensor will be used at any one time and it's just a matter of switching the relay trigger feed lines/wires to the other if the thresholds are too high or too low (too hot or too cold). As an added measure, I also bought a professionally rebuilt oem alternator capable or 180 amps. This will be more than adequate to cover the current draw when/if the fan is on it's high speed mode as it draws ~ 30 amps continuously at that high speed mode. It will also easily cover any additional current demands from my new stereo system as well.
