Oil Pump R&R

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Audiobuzz, Nov 10, 2008.

  1. Audiobuzz

    Audiobuzz The Ghost Of AB

    Hi all...long time no post!

    I have a dilemma that I need help on.

    I have just put the zed in to the mechanic to fix an oil leak and do a 100k service and they have narrowed the oil leak down to a leaking Oil pump gasket.

    Their suggestion is that it needs a whole engine Remove & Refit to get to the oil pump as the sump also needs to be dropped to get the pump out.

    Has anyone had to do something similar and are there any alternatives to R&R the engine?

    My Dilemma comes into play because to me if the NA has to come out...it ain't going back in.

    any and all thoughts welcome.

    AB
     
  2. beaver

    beaver southern zeds

    there right

    Id pull the engine, ask tek/graham, he did it engine in and said it was something he wouldn't do again. Put TT in it!
     
  3. K-zed

    K-zed Secret Squirrel

    See FSM, section LC - page 5.
     
  4. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member

    There are engine slings available that form a bridge between the guards and support the engine. You can then lift the car on a two post hoist and drop the sub frame out from under the engine and therefore the sump etc.

    If the garage doesn't have one of those or didn't think of using one I would think twice about letting them do the job.
    Should be an easy job for someone who knows what they are doing, I would guess at around seven hours work but allow for a day just in case.
     
  5. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    I wouldnt pull the engine. Its a bastard job but doable. Took me 2 1/2 days to remove and fit a new oil pump.

    You have to suspend the engine on an engine slinger. Remove lower cross member, remove steering rack, remove timing belt, crank pulley, remove air con compressor and mounting bracket from side of engine, remove alternator, remove oil filter, loosen and remove transmission stiffening brackets and lower sandwich plate, remove lower timing belt crank gear, undo and remove sump, undo and remove sump oil feed tube, remove oil pump complete.

    Replace front and rear rubber crank half seals, ($35 for both from Nissan) reassemble in reverse.

    This is a very big job. But engine pull is worse.

    If I was to do it for a customer I would charge $1400+ plus parts. get the oil pump from the ebay seller. Search oil pump 300zx on ebay,

    When the xchange rate was good it cost $220 delivered. Would be more now.

    Enjoy :eek:
     
  6. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby


    Your guess would be way wrong LMAO
     
  7. Audiobuzz

    Audiobuzz The Ghost Of AB

    They quoted about $1000 to do the job by pulling the engine, with the comment that it would be about the same work/difficulty to do it by dropping the crossmember.
     
  8. beaver

    beaver southern zeds

    you can

    expect their price to go up at some stage, possibly when the engine is out!
     
  9. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    LOL good luck with that. If they pull the engine they will discover a heap of other shit that needs doing as well. All the connectors with be screwed, Oil leaks that should be done with the engine out, etc etc etc.

    BTW I wouldnt remove and refit an engine for $1000. Its usually about $600-$700 each way and you still have to do the work on the pump.

    I would expect a bill around $1800-2K for this if i was you.

    Tell me, when they say a seal is leaking. What seal? If it is the front seal then you can do that without pulling the pump out
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2008
  10. Audiobuzz

    Audiobuzz The Ghost Of AB

    Connectors have all be replaced over the last few years and yes I'm sure I might decide to do other stuff while it's out but I'm not including that in the R&R cost.

    It's the paper gasket that is behind the oil pump. it looks like a half circle strip about 1cm in width.

    I just wanted to get a feel for whether there was a way to fix it without R&R or dropping the cross member as it seems they are at least close in cost...If I'm spending the money...it'll be a TT conversion as thats ultimately what I've wanted for ages...this just gives me the motivaton.

    I'm conflicted between a conversion, or trade in for TT as it's only recently had a full respray.

    AB
     
  11. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    I would try to just tighten the bolts up. There is no pressure behind the seal so it may just work.

    When i put the new one on I silconed the sh!t out of it. Wont leak ever.

    Nissan tended not to use any seal other than the paper one. The issue is probably the juntion between the sump and the block. There is a ridge where they come together that is probably where it is leaking from.
     
  12. 300zx lover

    300zx lover THE F@%KEN ARAB

    i would be tempted to put the car on a truck and bring it down to graham johnson performance and racing (G.J.P.R) there workmanship is great and managment is really up to scratch. give him a call and see what you can work out. cheers
     
  13. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    pigs arse :bash:
     
  14. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member

    That is what it took me last time I did it so the only guess part is on the skill of the noddy doing the job this time.

    What would be your opinion on the time required then?

    EDIT: I just read your post with time, it is me laughing my arse off now :p
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2008
  15. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    Like all jobs, Its always easier and faster the second time isnt it. :p
     
  16. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member

    Damn straight! although then there are the disaster jobs that just go waaay wrong and Zeds are good at chucking those out there.

    Still I would rather have a bad day working on a Zed than most other cars, the reward at the end is worth it :zlove:
     

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