Hi All, finished all the final electrical and vacuum connections last night and tried to start the car today. She's cranking but not starting At one point it ran (very lumpy) for a few seconds after releasing the ignition before it stalled. has not done that again since. I checked the four front cylinders for spark, and all of them had strong spark from the plugs. the plugs were also very wet with fuel when i pulled them out. i've left it to dry out a couple of times but still nothing. I checked compression on a couple of cylinders which both showed 120 psi (guessing that its a bit low because it needs to be run in yet, also didn't depress throttle, will do that on next one), i'll go and check them all now. I have not yet put coolant in the engine, figured i'd see if it started first. Engine Oil is full. Gearbox needs oil still, as well as clutch fluid and P/S fluid needed. there is no Air con pump attached yet. Any ideas people? i took a short video if that might help... not sure how to upload it though.
Did you remove the injectors from the rail at any stage? Maybe damaged the o rings when you reinstalled them. Compression seems about right. Any error codes? What's the timing like while cranking? Should be about 16-17deg. Hard to check by yourself You'll need a friend.
didn't remove the injectors from the rail at all, and quite sure the insulators between the upper plenum and the injectors where not pinched or anything on instalation. Will check for error codes this arvo, and will check the timing when my brother gets home. Thanks chrisp!
Videos... got a video of the engine cranking and one of the error codes from the ECU. can someone confirm the codes for me? i don't think i got it... my interpretation is codes 12 and 34?? http://s904.photobucket.com/albums/ac242/OdinZ_2009/?action=view¤t=20102009001.flv http://s904.photobucket.com/albums/ac242/OdinZ_2009/?action=view¤t=20102009.flv Oh and btw... the exhaust and drive shaft is not yet connected either. exhaust is straight from dumps.
Looks like code 21, not 12. From memory it's your CAS, which if buggered, either the connector or unit, will not start. Give the connector some TLC, retention the connector, etc.
Yep, code 34 and 21. So you're det sensor is rooted or connected wrong. You may have connected it to the o2 sensor plug by accident. Code 21 is ignition. S1 PTU or S2? Edit: Andy, Code 11 is CAS.
Yep, sorry, I posted and then thought...is it? anyway...you will also get a code 21 if you haven't tightened your ecu connector bolt completely. Common mistake. Did you connect all your grounds on the plenum before attempting to start the motor...PTU's don't like this.
Check the wiring as Andy suggested. Though no earth wire on the plenum normally blows the arse out of the ground circuit in S1 PTU's, giving not even a hint of wanting to start (which yours does).
Cheers guys... ok, so i'm quite sure the det sensor is connected to the right plug as i labelled them, but one of the wires coming from the harness is exposed and almost broken behind the plug, so ill fix that. the det sensor and harness are brand new though. could this cause strating problems? code 21... so does this mean i might need to do the pTU upgrade? is there a short term fix for this or any other possible causes? I still have the series 1 as i never had any problems with it.
Det sensor won't cause starting issues. You may need to do the PTU upgrade, you may not. You need to work out if it's the PTU causing the issue. Double check the ecu plug, clean and tension the PTU connectors till they are bright and shiny, and test the PTU as per the service manual. And no, there's no short term fix for code 21, at all.
What do you mean by ECU connector bolt?? i had to unbolt the ecu from the firewall to do the codes check, does that mean it looses it's earth or something??
by checking the ECU plug, do you mean the main connector/plug into the side of the ECU? and where in the manual is the test for the PTU? Cheers
Yep, main ECU plug with a 10mm bolt holding it on. Make sure it's not overtightened or too loose. EF&EC 179 for the PTU test.
So... i checked the ecu connector, all good. checked the PTU connectors and cleaned (the 7 pin connector had corrosion) tried to do the PTU test but not too sure about the results on that or if i was doing it right. Might be time to get a series 2 PTU... where is the cheapest place to order one from? Now... did a full compression test and there was a big outstander... Cyl 1 - 155! Cyl 2 - 128 Cyl 3 - 128 Cyl 4 - 138 Cyl 5 - 130 Cyl 6 - 135psi the block and heads were professionally machined etc by a well known workshop and used 29 thou oversized ACL race pistons. got a timing light and went to check that only to find there is no possible way of viewing the mark on the pulley and belt cover without removing almost everything from the front of the engine... ie radiator, fan, water pipes etc. Or is there??
Ah yes good question, can anyone confirm this? I have been cranking it all day with the fuel flowing (pump on).
