I remember the days when I liked turning heads when driving , now its for the wrong reasons . The engine noise is crazy , Spent the last week going through the oil system , everything outside of the engine is fine , The only thing I have modified is the oil cooler shifted forward . Drilled out the OPS , still have only 2 bar max oil press . a faulty OPS may be possible but the point is , the engine knocks in the bottom end and chatters in the top , This is a brand new rebuild WTF. Have done 4 oil changes with different weights and still the same . What bothers me is when you look down the oil filler there is oil splattering everywhere , indicating adequate upper lube. Maybe I just have shit lifters and the wanker engineers put them back in . I am the first to admit my car needs professional help for the first time ever , (Toowoomba owners beware ,there are no good engineers here for a HP Jap engine ) Go to a Metro city who know what they are doing . I fear my big end is gone expaining the low Oil Pressure , which is the original problem 2.5 years ago when I unfortunatly decided to rebuild this juganaut of an engine . I am going to Warwick next weekend even if it turns my engine into a seized Fu#king molten toffee apple .
sounds like a nightmare, I decided if my rebuild wasn't 100% on first attempt I'd toss it and put in a V8.. I didn't need to fortunately. maybe try post about it on twinturbo.net if you have no luck here.
if i just paid them heaps to rebuild my motor and it was anything but spot on i would be around there telling the guys that built it, to sort it out, i let shoddy crap for a couple of hundred slide usually, but when it comes to thousands, it's a different kettle of fish, they built it, obviously not properly, make them fix it,
Already opened this can of worms Can you believe the first time they rebuilt the heads they left 3 bolts finger tight on the exhaust cam wheel . After running for a bit the pully came loose and banged around the pully case , long story short they refused responsability and after threatening them with court we agreed to meet half way , they even tried to tell me that they don't tighten things like that and it's up to the assembler to check this ( me ) Why were the other 3 wheels touqued correctly just arseholes . I asked them why I would have no oil pressure and they promply said OOH your big end is gone , not remembering it was they who did Block rebuild 5 months earlier. Because I put the heads on I don't have a leg to stand on .
hear you loud and clear blackheartedprofit, but i guess that's why it definitely pays to shop around and check out the workshops etc. Sometimes it may cost a lot more, but it definitely pays to do it once and do it right.
anyway sweetchuck, why melt it down?, man you just paid heaps to get it built, pull it out and apart and fix it, there can't be a great deal wrong with it, don't stuff up all that work and money, although i would be feeling the same way, common sense must prevail cheers
Cheers , There is only so many times you can do this and keep your sanity I feel like booking into the smashem up derby.
Dude, didnt you buy new lifters or dissasemble and clean out the old ones before they where put back in? The lifters will chatter if there is not enough oil pressure to fill em.
Sorry to hear Chuck, Unfortunatly I cant give you tech advise but I do understand your problem with the feeling your having. Apparetly Ive blown a turbo, or atleast its on the way out...... But either way, its blowing white smoke out of the exhusts as if its going out of fashion! Im goin for a compression test tomorrow to just confirm it aint my worst fear. Best of luck man, and just remember the good times your Z gives you and let that be your strength. My strength is that when I get married that I want my Z to be my wedding car I leave the reception in it.......
They were cleaned and checked by the engineers , I don't think I have lifter problems , but rather oil pressure . Borrowed an after market gauge last night and the stock gauge is close to accurate .
The original oil pump was stuffed so a second hand one was bought and checked for clearance etc . What worries me about this, is a knock in the bottom end , Maybe I cooked the bottom end when I had cooling issues although it would had to have been pretty tropical for that to happen and not warp the head !
You could drop the cross member and have a look at the bottom end bearings. Any knock doesnt sound like good news. If you leave it, it may throw a rod and then you will really be screwed.
I still don't fully understand how a spun main bearing drops oil pressure. and besides the noise the engine is running sweet , plenty of power .
Try Paramount Auto in Toowoomba Terry Seng has worked on my Zed a couple of times in the past 12 months and I was very pleased with his work and the price. He knows his stuff from old muscle cars to the latest Jap high tech machines. I boiled the Zed dry recently due to a burst hose, and ended up with low compression in cylinder 2. His attention to detail ended up saving me $1,200 as he took the time to run some extra diagnostics rather than jumping straight in and doing an engine pull. Give Terry a call.
I doubt the cooling issue caused the 'knock'. If you are indeed only hitting at best 2 bar of oil pressure..... the bearings are probably rooted... along with your valve train. At high rpm, oil pressure gets as high as 5 to 6 bar to keep bearings from contacting.
Then you'll be up for $6000 + to get it RE-FIXED !!! The other option is to pull it down and rebuild it again, savin both the motor you have and ya wallet. I picked up a zed motor off of ebay for under a grand and its my 'spare' should things go wrong, it may well pay for you to start looking for a spare motor if you intend to drive it with low oil pressure. At the moment it sounds as if the damage is done, cut ya losses and re do it before it costs you a motor replacement. Kingy
It's going to cost me a motor anyway , there is no way I am rebuilding this again , I will get a front cut before I would do this again , Easy Easy. I'll take it to a shop first , before I get carried away
If the motor is running OK "with plenty of power" (to quote your earlier comment) I'd stick with it before deciding anything drastic. Talk to the "engineers" who worked on it for you, or try some Nulon lifter cleaner (much cheaper than a new motor) to see if it will 'un-gum' your lifters and stop the noise. Works quite well, you've just gotta let it work for 500kms or so.