No starter when key turned.

Discussion in 'Technical' started by woofer, Dec 20, 2015.

  1. woofer

    woofer Active Member

    Hi,

    1989 J-Spec TT

    I little while ago i got a random instance of when i turned the ign key to start there was a momentary delay of the starter , then it would start , then eventually nothing no matter how many times i try.

    From what i read i thought it would be the starter relay located under the drivers side wheel arch, so i got a couple from the US and installed a new one......same deal no starter.

    When i turn the ign key on i hear the fuel pump activate and all appears normal. When i turn the key to the start position the warning light on the instrument panel with the exhaust/heat symbol lights up, when i release the key to on the light goes off.

    I dont hear any relay,s clicking when trying to start..

    Any help much appreciated..

    Thanks..
     
  2. woofer

    woofer Active Member

    Just another note.....when turning the key to start, as well as the light with exhaust/heat symbol coming on ...the clock and the display on the climate control go out until the key is released.
     
  3. East Coast Z

    East Coast Z Well-Known Member

    Have you got an auto or manual transmission?
    Have you got a copy of the electrical circuit diagram?
    Have you got a multimeter?
     
  4. MikeZ32

    MikeZ32 das Über member

    That's all supposed to happen.

    I had a problem similar after an engine swap. Turned out to be my aftermarket immobiliser being faulty.

    Which was actually caused by a short circuit between the starter motor power wire and the heat shield.
     
  5. woofer

    woofer Active Member

    Auto trans..
    No copy of elec circuit diagram
    Got a multimeter.
     
  6. michandy

    michandy Active Member

    try

    try starting in Neutral, might be the gear position switch ;) just something else to try
     
  7. East Coast Z

    East Coast Z Well-Known Member

    As michandy suggested, try shifting the transmission lever, the neutral start switch on the transmission prevents the car from being started in gear.
    If the switch is defective, worn or not mounted correctly the circuit will be open & the engine won't start.

    If that checks out OK, check the open circuit voltage at the battery.
    What is your voltage reading?
    Try & start the engine, what is your voltage reading?
     
  8. woofer

    woofer Active Member

    I have tried both park and the neutral positions , no luck.
    Voltage of battery is 12.4v.
    I have tried a new battery using jumper leads...still no go.

    Where is the neutral start switch located?

    On one occasion when it first started playing up, i remember holding the T-Bar lever "in" and it started...
     
  9. stumagoo

    stumagoo Active Member

    also check the security of the power cable to the starter (porbably even the start signal wire as well). would not hurt to check earth cables either.
     
  10. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    What is the voltage while cranking?
     
  11. woofer

    woofer Active Member

    Starter will not operate , so i dont know the voltage while cranking...
    Voltage when key is turned to start position does not change, approx 12.4v
     
  12. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    Ok -it's quite possible your starter motor is stuffed. Stick a multi meter on the terminals of the starter and see if you are getting power with the key in "start"
     
  13. SrAfciGeR

    SrAfciGeR Member

    Check battery terminals for oxidation and wash them off.
    Best thing to take terminals off, clean them with send paper - same goes with battery +/-.
    Get some Vaseline and grease them with that stuff.
    Put them back on and tighten them up.

    Try starting / recharge the battery and try starting.
     
  14. East Coast Z

    East Coast Z Well-Known Member

    That's the expected result.
    There are three wiring connections on the starter solenoid.
    One connects the positive lead from the battery, the other large nut connects a wire from the solenoid to the starter.
    The small wire (which I think from memory is Black with a Yellow tracer) is the wire connected to the ignition switch.
    Disconnect the small wire & connect the positive probe of your multimeter to the wire.
    Connect the negative probe of your meter to any good ground & turn the key to the start position & you should see battery voltage, or in your case around 12.4VDC.
    If there is no voltage on this wire, there is an open circuit & the first thing to check is the transmission neutral start switch that was mentioned earlier.
    If you do have voltage then the starter solenoid is defective.
    While you're under the car jam a heavy screw driver across the two large terminals on the starter solenoid.
    Expect sparks & the starter to engage, so make sure the car is not in gear!
    If nothing happens then your starter motor is junk.
     
  15. woofer

    woofer Active Member

    Well the mystery is solved..BUT another mystery arises..

    Jacked up the car for access to starter. Upon looking at the wiring i noticed wires that looked very non original.
    I see the main 12v supply to the starter and the small yellow/black wire to the solenoid . What i noticed was the yellow/black wire had been cut and a new wire put in which ran up to a relay in the engine bay. The wire returned from the relay to the other side of the yellow/black wire to the solenoid . Also from the relay was a 12v supply from the starter to the relay.

    I have had the car for years and never noticed this oddity ....

    I connected the yellow/black wire as original and tried the ignition..... Fired up straight away.....

    THANKS... to everyone for their input on this..

    Could anyone theorise as to why/what the idea was of placing the relay in between the black/yellow wire to the solenoid??

    See pics....


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. gmbrezzo

    gmbrezzo Moderator

    That would be a form of immobilising.
    Question is either the relay has failed or why is there no power to energise the relay.
    Effectively you may have just bypassed the security of the car.

    Oh and FORD parts on a Zed.. oh the humanity :eek::rolleyes:
     
  17. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    Could also be a secondary relay -commonly installed to combat voltage drop across aging ignition circuits. You would need to trace the wires to find out. A dead relay or dead immobiliser certainly fits the symptoms.
     
  18. MORBOOST

    MORBOOST Active Member

    had the same sort of problem, traced it to the ignition barrel the solenoid on the back was loose, poof design it is just press fit. Tried to glue it didn't work. Ended up cable tying it hard up against the barrel been fine for 2 years.

    Oh and if it all falls out, spring bearing. Use a mirror to work backwards.
     
  19. East Coast Z

    East Coast Z Well-Known Member

    "Could anyone theorise as to why/what the idea was of placing the relay in between the black/yellow wire to the solenoid??"

    How's this for a theory?
    It was installed to reduce current flow through the ignition switch.
    Is there a prize?
     
  20. woofer

    woofer Active Member

    Ha! no prize sorry..:D

    Put the wiring back to "as found" and installed a new relay...... started fine , so the relay was the fault.
    Obviously the relay was installed for a reason, and most probably it was for the reason you stated, so thought i would be a good idea to go with that set-up..:)
     

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