Cool thanks! That is a good solution for me at the moment while I have a dedicated PDA for the car, but I intend to move over to my Htc diamond2 phone and one of the aircable bluetooth devices sometime soon and think that the alarm I'd like to use for the warning might be a pain day to day (as I'd want something short but quite loud & striking to grab my attention). That is what drove me to think a seperate sound config option seperate to standard windows sounds. On a side note, have you had any experience / reviews about the airnet bluetooth serial devices?
have tried a few bluetooth adaptors but never managed to get any to work. havent heard of anyone who has either. probably half the blame is because bluetooth is a bit out of control trying to do everything, cant even get a simple serial port working. though i should try test it out again at some point. but its (bluetooth/serial adaptors) are pretty expensive so its often cheaper just buying an older ipaq than a bluetooth adaptor. all i wanted to find was a bluetooth adaptor that ONLY did serial, no other bs or complications, and didnt cost the earth.
I think I have to put my Ipaq H4150 in it's cradle in the house when it's not in use in the car. I think the battery isn't holding much of a charge and dumps all of my settings including my ECUTalk shortcuts in it's folders when it loses it's battery life. I just had to reload V1.3.4 and I'm back up and running again. I had no idea how much I've started to rely on it. One note however. There's a function to change the refresh rate in MS. I got it to refresh much slower so that I wasn't seeing a blurr of numbers in the bottom of the guage which I thoroughly like. Now I can't get it to that same settinf again. To select the slowest refresh rate do I select 1 or 1000?
higher value = longer time between lcd refreshes, when logging only from memory. if you're not logging itll go at maximum refresh i think. thats probably what has got you
Wow - I thought you'd dropped off the face of the earth. Good to see that's not the case! Yeah I take my PDA in and sit in the cradle in the house when I'm not using it. My PDA only lasts 3 days sitting in the car before it resets itself. And as my car is generally a weekender this is an issue. As a fall-back in case I'm stupid and leave it there for a week unused, I created a backup of the system working the way I want it on the SD card. Then I do 15-30 mins of driving to charge the PDA battery enough for it to begin operating again in the hard-reset state, then simply restore the backup!
Thanks Peter. That makes complete sense now since I was for a period of time unknowingly logging. Bad part of that was that it got to a point my PDA was slowing down due to overfilled memory. That took some figuring out since those log files only revealed themselves on Active Sync and not through any means scrolling through the PDA directly. I had to delete a lot of logged files through Active Sync. I also just learned that Active Sync doesn't want to work with my new laptop running Windows 7. Or at least it didn't when I tried to install and use it today. Hey thanks for that!! I thought my battery was a bit dodgy but since you need to bring it in and cradle it too, makes me think that it's normal. I usually disconnect the serial cable after each use but that wasn't enough in itself. I do have a copy of V1.3.4 on the SD card as well but of course I have to use the cradle and Active Sync to copy and paste the shortcut. I was fortunate some time ago to actually have an icon for ECUTalk on the PDA homepage just like my Tom Tom one that was automatically placed there when I loaded that program onto the SD card. I can't seem to be able to do that now. I can't remember what folder to place the ECUTalk shorcut in. For now, I just use the 2 of 4 quicklaunch buttons on the face of the PDA to initiate either ECUTalk or TomTom Navigator which serves me well for now.
Peter: It's great that we have a multitude of different gauges/readings to choose from but knowing exactly what each one is would making the selection process much easier/accurate. Is there a complete list of all the expected/normal readings/values that we should see at idle and what we should anticipate at speeds above idle? I have no idea what some are or how to differentiate one from the other. IE: A/F Base & A/F Base RH A/F Base SL & A/F Base SL RH O2 Sensor & O2 Sensor RH Injector & Injector RH Duty Cycle & Duty Cycle RH Air Flow & Air Flow RH AAC
i cant really provide expected values as they are car dependant (remember this software isnt just for Z32). need to refer to your service manual or similar to know what readings should be. that pic is an older version, newer version combines the a/f base and a/f base SL readings (given this is what the actual consult II does, not sure of the accuracy of the seperate values, or even if they are valid to be seperate at all). as for all the RH, thats just primary/secondary or left-hand/right-hand banks for the V6 or similar engines with dual AFM/O2 etc. a/f base i figure is to do with O2 feedback corrections o2 sensor is o2 sensor (helps ecu fine tune fuelling) injector is injector pulsewidth (how long injectors are open for, in milliseconds) duty cycle is percent of revolution injectors are open for (so if u reach 100%, you're getting as much fuel in as possible). AAC is valve that lets air into engine and bypasses throttle - i.e. allows the car to idle with throttle closed (air has to get in somehow). explanation of the is somewhat outside the scope of the software and is expected knowledge for using it, just like it is for all other consult software out there (i think full conzult has manuals explaining some of the readings, but then with all the $$$ they make from it, then can afford to spend the time on that). its something i have on the 'todo' list, to put an explanation on the website, but its not high priority right now.
