lost track of Davies-craig controller GB -UPDATE pls ?

Well when you get one

and connect it up right, then plug it into datascan you will see that it does in fact begin pulsing for about 5 seconds at 35c thereby giving optimum convection because you can see the temp fluctuations very well.

 

Thank's for the good questions henpecked,

and yes I'm sorry to have gone off topic a bit. But to answer your questions in order,yes I have the recent one. The temp sender is supplied with the controller harness and yes it looks to be fairly standard. It's location is vital to get the system working 100% and that is NOT as the instructions say of locating as close as possible to the thermostat because that is the lower hose and that is the inlet so that is obviously the wrong place for it, it needs to be inserted as far as you can get it into the top radiator hard pipe as this is the hottest part of the engine. It is also where the oem one is and I thought of just connecting into it but was advised against it. Anyway the result is that both probes read the same which is best. My pump is located in the 90% bend of the large bottom hose. I must say henpecked that I am really very happy with the final end result. Bring on summer.!

 

So let me clarify,

Your datascan is measuring temperature at the top radiator hose
- it is seeing 35C

Your EWP Controller has a temp sender in your heads, it begins pulsing at 55C

which accounts for a 20C temp differential

So if anyone else that implements the EWP and mounts it in their top radiator hose, when it sees 55C then the temp inside the heads would at least be 75C - possibly higher

75C is ok i would think, but *what if* it's much higher than that? that is the point i am trying to make.

But if you located your EWP in your heads, then that may be a good way to do it - can you post pics of it? and descriptions/explanations etc so that others can learn from what you have done?

 

fan will blow air in the correct direction regardless of orientation.. this wind direction is governed by the electrical connections and hence the direction the fan is spinning, however.. the shape of the blades is an aerofoil and is far more efficient in one direction than the other.. hence why you need to flip the blades around.. davies craig are defaulted to push setup when purchased.. however this would not explain why you are overheating at 100ks an hour on the freeway

 

Maybe..

I dont think it got that hot before (prior to going new rad + thermo), the only time I can remember was during summer going out for a hard drive and it hit about 90ish.

I will give it a go swapping the fan around, but I could have sworn the air was flowing the correct direction but maybe ive stuffed it, cant hurt to check. The radiator isnt leaking and there are no coolant leaks. The radiator cap is new the overflow bottle is all hooked up properly. Maybe an air bubble? I filled it up when the front of the car was jacked up and also checked the level when it was parked on the hill facing down the hill. I topped it up a few times when I initially filled as it slowly purged. Hmmm.

If the fan is going the wrong way it could be forcing against the air comming through and thus not cooling very well at all.

 

I swear to god for the LAST time that the new

DC controller does pulse for about 5 seconds while the datascan (oem probe reads 35c, as a result of this pulsing you can actually see any fluctuations in temp disappear at this point. Then as soon as the temp gets to 55c it begins again. Also it takes twice as long as it used to ,to get the gauge to move. This tells me its running much much cooler as does the datascan I watch it with. Sorry I can't put it any simpler.

 

WHAT HAPPENED RE THE GROUP BUY OF THE NEW DC CONTROLLERS ???

as per above heading

WHAT HAPPENED RE THE GROUP BUY OF THE NEW DC CONTROLLERS ???

was there one I missed out on - or are people buying the controlers straight from DC ?

On their website I see nothing about an actual release of the Series 2 controller for the 110 pump - just some help here PLEASE ???

 

re; waterpump removal

this is an adendum to the above questions by henpecked. Sorry I forgot about your final question but it is very straightforward. I removed the oem w/pump and blanked the hole with a 10mm alloy plate.(I first tried to use 3mm S/Steel but found that at high speed/temp it would begin to leak(tiny leak) around the seal. Whether this was caused by the bolt holes being to restrictive or just different expansion rates, I'm not too sure.) Now only two belts needed, plenty of room, looks tidy, Shroud not needed to stay at 75c. I've got some pics somewhere if you really want to look.? All the best with your setup.!

 

Yes Henpecked I was too impatient to wait,

for a GB to get it's act together etc, and had requested DC to inform me the moment I could have one. It cost me $236+freight,I think rrp is $330. I believe GB price could be worked out for about the $160-$180 mark which is a very good saving. I fully recommend this product to everyone concerned with overheating issues. I actually have some control over temperature for a change, and it may only be 20c of control but it works very well.

 

Fixed

Flipped the fan blade over (polarity was correct already) and yer 84c she maxed out at on the same drive as before. Saw about 80-82 for most of the way though.