Left Exhaust Cam - CAS Drive

Hey guys

As far as I know all exhaust cams are exactly the same for all series 1 zeds. With the only variance on auto TT intake cams with less duration.

Now my existing left ex. cam has the CAS drive broken off, I have a spare ex cam from an auto TT can I simply swap this over or are there potential issues with cam journals not mating up? Or cam journal clearance issues?

Don't want to swap them if there is a risk of the journals 'catching'.

Matt.

Edit: wrong section mods please move to tech.

 

So that's the journals on the new cam that will be going in correct?

 

Yes Coz does sell them but it's a fukd job to replace them.

 

Yeah they are, it is a Jim Wolf Technology product (available from CZP), and you can find an install doc of their website.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/VG30DETT_CAS_COUPLING_MISALIGNMENT.pdf

If you read that DOC you will see the problem is related to a "machining error of the CAS mounting bracket", how you identify you have a bad bracket or the wear/breakage of the pin is just incidental I do not know, if I had a broken pin I would probably buy a new CAS bracket unless I could prove my current bracket had nothing to do with it.

That is the way I would go as there is a known problem with early CAS pins wearing/breaking.

As far as exchanging cams like for like, I am interested in the answer to this question also, there are no bearings as such, just machined surfaces in the alloy heads, it is common to keep caps etc in sets so they go back in the same spot, but it seems cams can be changed without too much drama.

Is it a case that the tolerance is not that critical and or they are all fairly similar and rotation can be checked for assurance during assembly ?

 

Cam caps definitely have to go back exactly the way they came out, exactly the same as rod caps.

 

Yeah that is the "procedure", I can see that the "tunnel" could be slightly centred differently cap half to head, but the cams size is consistent allowing cam changes with out to much trouble, but to check smoothness of rotation you would have to get the valve weight of the cam, almost impossible with heads on, maybe it is not such a problem.

EDIT: Or is it just a case of removing the lifters on our heads ?

 

Are you reffering to simply removing the lifters installing and torquing the cam and then rotating by hand??? I was going to do this.

 

Yeah, have never done it, but I imagine that is what you would do. Using assembly lube preferably to just a slap of oil I think.

 

What do you normally do, would you test fit for smooth rotation or mic it up ?