I have very little experience but I did ask as many questions as I could because I am keen to learn on the subject. I only mentioned the AFR because I wasn't sure if it was okay to talk about timing as some Tuners can be rather protective of their trade / skills. We settled on an 11.5 AFR and timing was adjusted in almost I believe every cell. The lower RPMs weren't changed much but we found there was a lot of room in the upper RPM before we detected any pinging. He didn't keep it right on the edge as I asked for a balanced tune. When he detected pinging, he dropped timing as far as I know, after we settled on 11.5 AFR earlier on (the other options was 11.8 and 11.2). While I agree you probably should use much more sophisticated equipment as some point later on, it only makes sense to me if you have a lot of funds invested in a very high power build and are shooting for every single point of power extra you can pull out of it, where money is no object. For my lightly modded Daily / Street Car, I'm more then happy with it now. MoulaZX
I can do tune on the road tune. I can do dyno tune (hire dyno). Also I can do road and dyno tune. Road and dyno tune is best but cost more than road tune. Hire dyno cost $80-90/hour and my labor $85/hour. If road tune after customer go to dyno shop for check power and dyno sheet power line is not smooth I will fix on dyno. Customer pay dyno cost and my labor is free. Im adjusting Power AFR is around 12. Very safe AFR is 11.5. Drift car AFR around 11. Power line is able to guess from AFM volt data log chart. Power is able to from TP load data log chart. If TP load more than last run it is more power than last run.(if its same boost) His cars power line is bit dent around 5000rpm.(AFM volt 0.03v dent) But this map is fastest map our feel.
welcome toshi i have nistune already installed and dyno tuned about 4000km ago but i noticed it playing up on me just last saturday i had Sav "CUSTOMTT" on the forum in my car at the time he might be able to elaborate but once i put power down and it started making boost it started splattering and poping and didn't go anywhere like it was missing firing or running to rich, but after the car wash we drove back home and it was fine. i really couldn't understand it maybe you could fix this problem for me i was thinking it lost the tune but then it was fine on the drive home maybe a tune will fix it. any ideas what it may be if not tune related. thanks
Hey Danny, thanks again for Saturday mate! - I think we should both go & see Toshi for a Full dyno & tune after my rebuild - should have it back by the end of next month (hopefully) & a big welcome to Toshi - something tells me I'll be seeing you in the not too distant future, based on the reviews/ comments in this thread Yes - there was a strong hesitation/ almost bogging down when you hit the pedal & squeeling noise coming from either the tailshaft or diff in my opinion - I wouldn't say it was the tune Danny, but you never know mate - Anyhows, once the engine or whatever the problem was straightened itself out, I was slightly squirming in my seat when Danny gave it a small squirt - pulls harder than an inmate! - awesome car! Danny, if you wanna go see Toshi before my rebuild or whenever, let me know & I'll come with cheers
Hi mr0300 I am able to check your ecu data. Its free. How was engine check light? I think sounds like crank angle sensor problem.
Update. Dyno booked in for next Monday, 31st. Will have pictures and dyno charts and all the goodies up by the end of that night. Its at MRC, same place I took her before almost 2 years ago now. Mark is doing it again I hope so, same dyno, same operator... should be good results. MoulaZX
no engine light i was told it could be Ignition as i haven't changed it yet so im going to order in -SplitFire 300ZX Super Direct Ignition Coil System and a -Selin Design Dual MAF Translator / Elbow Kit Combo Kit w/ ISIS MAFS then ill be in for a tune
MoulaZX, I hope you don't mind, but I included this thread in an "Official NIStune" thread that was recently started on 3ZC. I hope you don't mind the sharing of information as I find your thread extremely informative. Many thanks!!
Yea, no problem mate. Had a quick look over on the that thread just now, seems interesting. I'll go through it properly later tonight. Happy to answer any questions. Cheers, MoulaZX
So... I slept in. Dyno appointment was for 8am, I got there at 9:15. So today's schedule has been thrown off a bit. I think I have 4 sheets to scan and upload. General consensus is, again I'm happy with what she pulled for what condition she is in. I'll post everything up before the end of the day. MoulaZX
The Results... First off, like I said before, happy with the result considering the condition of the Engine: Those were the figures from nearly 2 years ago. More then certain its dropped a more points since. Turbos also am also certain are on their way out. While back when I installed the new dump pipes I noticed a tiny bit of oil on the Turbine side which I was told is also a sign the Turbo is on its way out. So the fact that the engine is even less healthy then it was 2 years ago and it managed to pull harder... I count that for something . Now I also know I'm gonna cop some flak for driving an unhealthy motor harder... meh. I'm gearing up for a big HP build in about 6-12 months time. I'm not taking her to the track and more often then not I drive her like a b*tch since its my daily. Now, done with the depressing news. Below are some sheets I had printed out. Somewhat of a disclaimer, today was a bastard of a day. Very hot. In the room it was at 33c. Last time I went, it was 22c. There are two sheets that'll illustrate just how much of a difference temp can make. Also, it seemed boost wasn't hitting the desired set level so for simplicity sake I will refer to the pulls as to what boost the EBC was set at for that run. Oh and if you're curious about my current mods, I've mentioned them in the opening post of this thread. We did 4 runs at different boost levels. 1 Bar (14.5 PSI), 1.05 Bar (15.22 PSI), 1.1 Bar (15.95 PSI). The only ones I was interested in was 1 and 1.1 for comparison purposes. The last two at 1.1. First up. Dec 2008, 1 Bar (Purple-ish Blue?) vs Jan 2011 1 Bar (Green) This first one sort of confused me. The last time I went, with an almost entirely stock setup, boost seemed to come on sooner, approx 300rpm according to the charts. No one could really nail the reason. I'm suspecting the massive temp difference was a giant contributor... anyone else have some ideas? Having said that though, I'm somewhat discounting the power being lower at sub 4800rpm because boost didn't come on at exactly the same time, can't quite compare them equally I think. The thing to note here is the better top end. Also to note, the same EBC was used way back in '08 and today. Second. Jan 2011 1 Bar Not much here, just showing boost against AFR for that same 1 Bar pull in the first graph. Love my EBC Third. Dec 2008, 1 Bar (Green) vs Jan 2011 1.1 Bar (Purple-ish Blue?) Heres where it gets interesting. Note the max power. This pull was done right after the first 2 pulls, all in quick succession. Hence she was getting very hot. Fourth. Jan 2011 1.1 Bar Final Run This pull was done about 5-10 minutes after the previous 1.1 Bar run. Nothing was changed. We were just off talking on the side. We decided to do one last run and it managed to almost touch that 230 mark. So yea, this was about 5-10 minutes later after the car was just idling and the two giant fans at the front were blowing away at her. She went from 220 to 230. I imagine on a cold, crisp and fresh night she would almost touch 240. I knew temperature played an import role but I wasn't aware how much of an effect it had at such relatively low (compared to the BIG HP builds around here) power. I did take one vid but the quality aint that great... mostly because there ended up being too much glare from a F'ING YELLOW COMMONWHORE UTE! :bash:. Might upload it later. Some pictures... Back in '08 lol. Notice the stock rims? Today: And the interior shot, and yes I know my gauges aren't straight, I will be remaking them once I get my new leather interior . They were more a 'proof of concept' at first, the 2nd set will be properly fixed and aligned. ....and thats it. MoulaZX
That's a really good figure considering the state of your engine man! I got Mark to Dyno/ tune/ install NISTUNE on my car as well - I will be heading back to him after my rebuild gets run in to dyno & tune again So how does the car feel compared to Toshi's tune? were there many adjustments made by Mark? Well done!
Mark didn't adjust anything. That was all Toshi's work. Hes also aware of the results already and suggested some minor tweaks which I'll do at a later date. Today was purely just a Dyno day, no tuning. And as far as the 'Seat Dyno', she pulls harder for longer to me so yea, I'm happy. MoulaZX