Just wondering is there any point getting a car with that much power, reason i ask is will it make much of a difference as compared to a 250kw machine....im talking about putting that power down and also what instead of doing 0-100 in 5 seconds it will be 5.2???? Ive just noticed a little trend in the last few years of people buying newer sports cars such as evos wrx's that have 200kw-230kw atw, as compared to GTRs etc with 300-350kws......whats the go..... i cant comment as i havnt owned those types of cars but what i can comment on is that the 300zx seems to be more drivable compared to some 4 banger turbos that only give a kick once you go beyond 3500 revs....even type Rs or 350z seem more drivable around town as you have this contant reserve of power you can put down effortlessly at any revs..... anyone follow me????
Most i have had my TTZ at is 240rwkw. The members or owners of a Z with 300+ RWKW will rarely if ever actually have it tuned for that whilst driving on the streets. as for putting power down, thats more of a suspension and drive set up as compared to what power the car has. AS for the trend u noticed i think its still in the same stanza is was a few years ago. If there is a shift its probably that the EVO is becomming more accesable for adverage people.. EG the new GTR35 i think fetches.. $160000... an evoX fetches... about $65000 i think (corect me if wrong on those prices).. See how one is ALOT more accesible and affordable for what would be percieved as the "ADVERAGE" wage earner.. Also the currunt efficiency war with cars might lead people to go for a 4cyl engine over a 3.8 L Twin Turbo V6
I think what you are talking about is torque. KW are for bragging, torque is fun. You could get a lawn mower to make 300kw, but it would have to scream its head off and would only last one dyno run. But, if you want some thing to use on the street look for torque.
What are good ways to increase torque? Does power and torque come hand in hand with similar mods? Or is it more to do with the tune of the car?
Wow what an open ended question. Well, a simple rule is power = torque x rpm, But what you want is torque through out the rev range. A good start is not to have huge turbos, or wild cams. It needs to be an integrated approach. As a general rule keep you air cool, but reduce you intake pipe work overall volume. Keep your intake air velocity high, and your exhaust gases slow. And, don't confuse high boost pressures, with air flow. I suggest that you get on to a couple of engine build books from amazon. Just the basics, not a specific engine type. There are heaps and they are cheap, especially when you are considering what you are doing. A lot have lovely pictures to help.
not a big fan of the wrx.. bro has one and its kinda gay.. no power whatsoever when your below 3000rpm... once you hit 3000rpm it boost too much.. and thats a standard tune (its a sti) really stiff suspension stock and... i just hate it as a daily... but going around corners is heaps of fun
i follow you. All i can comment on is that a mate of mine had an FC RX7 with 300+ rwHP that ran 11's at the strip. he sold it on the grounds of "it's just not drivable on the street anymore". Now has a Legnum. As for the Zed being more streetable than an Evo or WRX, im not sure that's the case as all the "4 bangers" i've ever been in come on boost quicker and are hence more fun "within the limit" than a TT zed. Once you get up to freeway speeds however, the Zed just laughs at them and leaves them for dead Keep in mind this opinion is based on my Zed which comes on boost late (3.5Krpm) at the moment. however I also borrowed my mates Zed that has stock turbos and 1 bar of boost, and I'd still maintain a WRX kicks you back into the seat more at low RPM.
did you mean to say 300kw+ or hp as you said? 300 hp is just a mildly boosted TT. 300kw on the other hand is about 400hp
Having come from a Z making in the low 200's RWKW to a Z making 329 RWKW at a relatively low boost pressure (17 PSI), I know which one I prefer to drive. Yes there are issues with traction in 1st and 2nd gears (and sometimes 3rd gear depending on road surface and tyre temps etc), but I reckon it's a good power level for a street car for drive-ability. As others have said, you need a car that makes good usable power across the top 1/2 of the rev range (3500rpm to 7000rpm). Careful turbo choice and supporting mods on the engine, intake and exhaust will help. I'm making good boost at 3500rpm, and my power curve is still increasing at the red line In closing. 300+RWKW scary as hell - YES Drivable - YES Better than 240 RWKW - YES
You need better tyres.... semis if you don't drive it alot or spend up big (like $3k ) on some sportsmaxx or similar if you need them to last high kms.
there is some truth to what you say, the rear tyres are old and cracked on the outer tread. None the less, 300+rwkw is drivable and fun:thumbup:. Nothing like dropping the foot at hwy speed and being pinned back in the seat, rear end of the car twitching trying to overtake the front end.
300+rwkw is no problems on the street. depends on the tune and suspension set up like everyone has said. My car doesnt chirp through gears at all and locks up and straightens up quickly after a slight initial burnout. All depends how much $$$ you wanna throw at it. Mind you my car is over 300rwkw on its everyday tune. No point having 300rwkw+ if you break traction throughout all gears... It really is up to you if you are happy with 250rwkw . If you race someone with 300rwkw, if he beats you by a few car lengths, do you care? If not, stick with the 250rwkw as it is 'fun' to have. People who chase big power to race VLs and smash them on the street == ego's...as you can tell you can get 18" semi slicks for 265$ new for some TOYOs. Good shit.
I meant to say 300hp. But i was wrong. It was 345rwhp at the time of the 11 second passes on a day with track temp of 51degC Much lighter car = need less power to run good times But yeah, hard to put the power down on street tyres on street conditions. Esp on a nice high reving rotory
Wise words actually. It's all about what each driver is HAPPY with. eg, I'll be happy when Im running 12's. To me, that target time is more important than a power figure. However, when I have my "12 second car" and some dude in an XR6 Turbo makes mince meat out of me......will I still be happy with my "12 second car"? oh well...baby steps
when you have your 12 second car ugame, someone will always have a car that can run 11.9...... so you go "ill spend more money andake my car faster" and then you run 11.8.....but someone else will still be faster, and so on and so forth.... my point being, doesnt matter how much you spend, how much you WANT to be the best, or how much effort and time you put in, there will always be a quicker/better looking/nicer/more expensive or whatever car........ so build your car for you, and dont be afriad to lose every once in a while, because it really doesnt matter, so long as your happy with what youve achieved..... we all drive 20year old nissans, and as much as i love my car (sometimes lol) i understand that its not at the top of the game anymore.....but theres still nothing id rather own, or else by now i wouldve sold my z and be in/working towards that hypothetical next car......z for life baby, oh yeah.... and just for you "may the metal live on":bow2:
No I 100% agree with you and I "think" ill be happy with mid 12's. but i also totally understand where iCer is coming from. For me, I know I dont have deep pockets to that's why I've picked a very doable target.
There's a good read in the latest Motor Mag (Oct). Basically they test a whole bunch of current production cars that have been modified to varying degrees. Interesting to see how different cars perform with vast differences in power levels. The mega power (400+rwkw) domestic stuff could barely crack the 12 sec mark due to inability to get that power down on launch, although trap speeds in excess of 190km/h show they aren't lacking in go once they hook up. Meanwhile your evo's and sti's were achieving mid twelves with around half that power at all wheels... as well as being significantly quicker around Oran Park. Expectedly the GTR and Porsche GT2 (for anyone rich enough to modify one) beat all comers.. although not by as much as you'd hope given the Porker was about 400K more pricey than the MRT Evo X. I guess the point is kw at the treads is a relative figure...
Exactly All 300 + rwkw cars are making that on a dyno at full noise. It's not as if your driving around on full boost all the time. Mine can be as docile as the rest of cars around it, or it can be as aggressive as you want it to be, it's knowing what you have and driving according to the conditions at the time.
