I didn't like how the mechanic Installed the bypass for my LadyZ as it was bending shockingly as you can see in the THIRD picture below. I am red, he's purple. So i decided to do it myself, get a nice hose and worked on it. It's my first time working around the engine by myself. What do you guys think? My installation These are the two openings that i sealed and connected with some extra protection This is the length of it without bending the hose at all However, My Hose is a bit longer but at least it's not bending at all. Does the length matter at all or is it going to affect anything around it?... The way that the mechanic installed it was shocking and i didn't trust the way it was as probably 10% was still open at the middle where it was bending. He said it wouldn't make any difference but i just had this strange feeling about it.
why do you have 2 clamps on one of the pipes? is it just for extra protection as you mentioned lol? other than that your bypass looks fine. the legnth wont affect anything so thats fine. your mechanic was right to a point, i mean when the heater core tap is closed no water or little is suppose to be passed through, so same thing if the pipe is kinked. but if bypassed better to obviously have it nicely free flowing...could you not find any hose that has a nice u-turn in it instead of such a long hose? by the way there is nothing wrong with the legnth as i mentioned so if your happy with it being there then thats fine...
should have got the EA falcon hose dude. costs a whole 3 bucks from most auto shops. and is alot neater... how much did that cost you?
That hose costed me $12 because it was long. Like i said. I didn't like the short one that was bending and that was the only position to get it perfectly straight. I couldn't find any other once or the one that was in the tech guide
you have done it, kink free .. you are ahead ... ..well done .. relax and enjoy .. until you decide to do the core replacement .. good stuff ...!!!
Another option is a 90 degree nylon bend from autobarn (about $4). Use existing hoses, you'd never know it was done unless you knew to look for it.
Not right Chrispy. Have a look at the circuit diagram in the tech section, or actually do it yourself on a TT, it's imperative that there is water flow through the by-pass hose, it's an integral part of the water flow throught the engine. No kinks, no blanking
my mechanic raises a good point. what does the tap in the heater core do? it stops the coolant flow into the heater core. so blanking off the heater core pipes or if the hose has a kink in it, will not cause a problem.
I'd imagine that flow would be redirected rather than stopped at the heater core, you've got turbo coolant lines going to the heater pipe after all.
I think i'll do it this way as i'll be able to get the pipe from a local hardware place I reckon- what diameter pipe do you use? cheers
I did my bypass the same way with the long hose wrapped around the master cylinder. Works fine, just isnt very neat. Been going strong for about 3 months now. I must get around to ordering those new heater hoses someday
Clicky Still don't see the issue of blanking off the end of the heater hoses. If you have one of those silly TT's the coolant will still pass through the throttles (unless bypassed), the turbos and the aac valve and return. The ONLY thing that will be removed from the circuit is the heater. I don't see the problem, can someone enlighten me?
******** coolant MUST flow between the 2 heater hose hardpipes. Your mech is right that the heater core tap is closed when heater is off but the system must allow circulation between those heater core hard pipes. Blanking both ends means no cooled coolant from radiator will circulate thru all the water galleries as required. Half the coolant galleries will not get cool water and will almost certainly sieze / destroy the motor. It is the exact same principal as when the thermostat gets stuck in the closed position. and the same end result. Consider how fast the coolant temp rises when the thermostat hasn't opened yet... Crispy: some (if not all?) of those pipes that run to the throttle body water galleries connect to the spigots on the heater hose hard pipes we are discussing. IF there was a stray circuit that doesn't use the heater hard pipes to complete, then all the engine circualtion would be limited to those 7-8mm circuits instead of the 20mm (approx) hard pipes.
There are no spigots on the heater side of the hardpipes (on NA's anyway) you would have considerable trouble pulling the heater out otherwise. According to the manual the coolant flows like this: Cylinder hear Right > Left Throttle > Left Turbo > Water Pump Cylinder head Right > Right Throttle > Right Turbo > Water Pump Cylinder head Right > Heater > Water Pump Cylinder hear Right > Water Pump No matter how you look at it coolant can circulate. The Throttle/Turbo coolant lines and the heater are all in parallel, so blanking the end of the engine side heater hard pipes would have the same effect as shutting the heater tap. As far as I can remember from changing Macman's heater that there is no diversion for the collant when the tap is shut, it's just shut.
