Hwo got a OEM crank pulley they dont use?

Im in the prosses of converting my Z to a triggerwheel on the crank.
I contacted Rossperformance to see if they had a solution on the steps. They seem to have it for the other nissans but not for the 300.
They asked if i could sent them a picture of it (which i have done) and later if they found it doable send them a pulley to R&D on. Now i live on the other side of the world (Norway) so shipping would sting a bit, so i thought i would ask here if someone might be interested to help out. Hwo knows, maybe this is the beginning of a new performancepart for the ZX.

Here is their adress for proximity assessments

Ross Performance Parts
Postal: PO Box 769 KINGS LANGLEY NSW 2147
Office: UNIT 5&6/16 FORGE ST BLACKTOWN NSW 2148

 

Which state in Australia are they? Might help your cause a bit.

 

No idea!

Do this help.
http://blog.rossperformanceparts.com/map/

 

Ross do actually make one cause JP had one on the UAS slot car.

Suggest you ask John what they did for him.

 

Hm. Will do. John is the guy i am in contact with. Thanks Tek

Oh. I now realise you might be talking about the John at UAS not Ross... Thei are both John`s..

 

We modified the stock balancer many years ago and made a custom bracket for the crank sensor and modified the CAS. I currently have a custom Ross chopper wheel and balancer on my VQ motor.

 

The stock CAS, by its design, can introduce timing scatter, but the scatter is on all cylinders equally relative to crank angle. Just belt stretch when running blah.
In most cases, its academic and not significant enough to be bothered with. Once ideal ignition angle is reached, there can be significant ignition angle changes for little gain, or loss in horsepower so unless the engine is grossly over advanced chasing the very last Lb/Ft in torque for dyno queen tyre kicking contests, tiny trigger angle variations, altho undesireable, are largely academic.

Just about all aftermarket ECU's made in the recent past are capable of interpreting the Nissan optical CAS trigger/synch time scheme with their unusually large trigger offset angle withoutany trigger wheel modifications.
Even the funky crank/cam position scheme employed on the later VQ engines are easily accounted for with no mechanical mods.
Aftermarket trigger wheels are usually made for funky one-off installations to engines that might have used a distributer to begin with which are always prone to excessive timing scatter from mechanical backlash.

newhoo, just having a quick look at my ally UD pulley, it would be a very simple and straightforward matter of fitting a generic 60-2 wheel to the pulley for a Hall-effect type trigger.
I cant easily see if there is sufficient room behind the pulley but no problem whatsoever to fit between the larger belt runs and the PS belt run.

You'd machine a shallow step, either on the very back of the pulley, or just in front of the larger belt runs to accurately locate the trigger wheel on, which has been machined out from a "wheel" to a "ring" and just drill and tap 6 x M4 holes to secure the timing disk. Add a sturdy bracket for the actual trigger and away you go.

Another method is drill the area between the larger belt runs and the smaller PS belt run and embed some Neodynium magnets in there to trigger a magnetic reluctor type of sensor.
The magnet alternative is probably the easiest to do but the magnets must be not only be spaced evenly around the pulley, which goes without saying, but they also must be secured into the pulley at exactly the same depth or timing scatter can result. Even a few thou can affect trigger timing significantly.
Secondly, due to the close proximity between the magnet end and the sensor, you cant easily stake the magnets into the hole so the magnets have to be pressed and glued in place and have been known to fly out if there is insufficient interference in the hole due to sloppy drilling.

You have to ensure total accuracy in both magnet spacing and installed depth or timing scatter will result, in which case your better off just staying with the stock CAS, AND using an ECU that interprets Nissan CAS output.

E

 

Here is a log that clearly shows why i want to convert to a triggerwheel on the crank. Look at the top section. RPM. The jump around where the marker is is about 600 rpm.
I run a Link G4 xtreme at the moment, and i am very happy with this ecu. Exept for how it reads the CAS. This is a problem that many ecus are struggling with. AEM for example(which i had for a while to. Piece of crap...). Motec is another one. As i understand it Haltech apparently got it right but i cant confirm it personaly. As many know AEM sells a cas disk that have a 24 hole pattern with only one camsync hole. This helps alot, but it doesnt really let you to light up your cigar. In the Skyline-world it is also discovered that the blue Gates timingbelts also induces problems on their own. It starts to "flap" around on certain conditions. So i will be swapping my Greddy belt with an OEM one just to be sure.
Problem isnt only that logging looks shit. But the ecu thinks that its time to fire the sparkplug at the wrong crankangles which in turn may result in detonation.
Only chance to get rock steady timing with my ECU though sems to be with a crank trigger.

 

Mmmmm............... you have something going on there which is very not right! That large an error is not right.

I use Adaptronic 440 select on my VG30det and the timing trace runs in a nice straight line. The Adaptronic does not look at every synch slot tho. Ive forgotten for the minute what the divisor is set at... might be 15...?
The spline between the cam and the CAS on mine is a snug, almost firm fit and i get almost no timing scatter at all.

Im not aware of timing scatter issues from countless other VG engines, many producing stupid horsepower, so Im guessing you have a combination of issues contributing to your uneven trace.
Id be looking for rooted bearings in the CAS along with excessive backlash between the drive and CAS splines.

Failing that, Im guessing these other ECUs are having difficulty counting the 2 Deg synch timer slots. The 6 trigger slots are easy to interpret and the ECU just looks for the slot which corresponds with #1 and ignores the time (size) of the rest and just uses the leading edge other slots to trigger the system so the error has to be introduced by misreading the synch timer or mechanically as mentioned above. But THAT magnitude of error is a little ordinary........
To bring things more into line you could punch out every *blah* number of slots to bring it down to a more manageable number, say 60 and then rotate the timing disk around 50 degrees (retarded) by enlarging the locating hole.
This will give you a much slower synch count and 10 degrees initial trigger offset which all ECU's will easily deal with.

Anyway, there are plenty of cheap and simple alternatives for you if you decide to go along with the pulley mounted timing wheel.

Just make sure you dont mount to timing wheel to the outer radius of a stock type damper pulley.
Ensure the wheel is securely attached to the fixed inner hub of the pulley.

Or just use a cheap and simple billet aluminium pulley and attach anywhere.

Good luck with it.

E

 

Agree with "kickerzx" especially if you are running big Turbo's/Boost and big CAM's with heavy valve springs... you want/need that timing spot on.

Fitted mine today, not hooked up to the ECU... leaving that to the Tuner.
Planning to have it setup and tuned the week after next.

 

First, if i seem slow to respond here its cause there is a 12 hour timedifference between us...

Tass.
As i mentioned there are ECU`s that dont have this problem and i think they, as your Adaptronic, dont count every tooth on the wheel, where mine and others does. This resuts in some teeth getting read more than once as the wheel "flickers" back and forth in front of the sensor. So a ECU not reading every hole is a good thing in this case. Not in every case though, but thats irellevant here and now.
The cams are pretty new and the CAS is almost brand new. I swapped it out resently to see if it helped. Not at all. So the root of the problem is not there.
I think a combination of a ECU that reads every hole in the disk (if it really does that. I dont know for sure) and a timingbelt that flapps is the cause of this thing.
I will probably go for a crankwheel and a AEM disk in the CAS for single hole cam synk.
I was initially going to source a wheel to install on the big fat ring on the pulley, but that was before it struck me that it was on the wobbly side the rubber.

Lostsoul.
What wheel/pulley is that and why is it so far out?

 

Pulley = your normal alloy UDP and it is fitted it's normal fitted ... the Trigger wheel is in this position because if fitted to the inside edge of the Pulley you can't fit the lower Timing Belt cover.

Another option would be to machine the Trigger Teeth into the Pulley it's self, the thick area between the 2 inside belts is suitable for this... just costs more.

 

Haha. I just now realise there is a rather important part missing in your pics.

Rob. I looked a little into that option as i have one of those boxes. The thing is that the sensor is positioned to read teeth at the starter-ring and the Link ECUs cant have more that 60 teeth when running in multitooth mode. God knows how many the flywheel has but it sure is more than 60.

 

Yes, looked at that but the Link ecu doesn't support the number of teeth on the flywheel

 

Correct.

E