Had mine installed since something like 2009 55w 3000k? cant remember but the same as Kieren's. Fine for 12 months but lately one takes three attempts to light up and they're never really pointing in the right direction no matter how hard I try. Also whats the deal with the stock rubber boots that seal the stock h3c bulb protecting inside the light from moisture? anyone fitted these with their HID's? Mine wouldn't fit since the HID bulbs don't really lock into place like the stock bulbs and would they have melted anyway? Ballasts are installed under the headlights above the smic's so they shouldn't be getting wet. Unless there's some way to sort the aiming and sealing issues I'm considering going back to stock cos the way HID's sit just seems dodgy. Yea they put out good light but at what cost to the headlight itself?
Have read that the 55W have a much shorter lifespan than the 35W due to greater heat generated in order to produce the same lighting from an identical sized lamp. Regarding the rubber boot. Never had an issue getting them to fit on either of mine. Adjustment on the NA is poor, but the adjusters on it are fubared. Have a set of later model fittings to hopefully fix the problem. TT is perfect.
Do you know where I can get new rubber boots from? or should HID's come with some? ones that actually fit our cars. Mine came with some attached but are too small in diameter for the plastic ring to seal against.
Quite sure that the headlights I got from member mmarshall come with the boots. If so, you can have those off of my old headlights. Wont know till Monday when I'm home.
Thanks if they're in good condition. so the ones that come with the hid's never fit and everyone's adapting the old stock ones?
personally cut the boots that come with the HID lamps off. The OEM boots required no modification at all to get them to fit. Picking the car up from painters on Monday. Should have a free set of OEM boots should I have them spare.
Cool I don't mind sending some money your way for them. Maybe I'm blind but I cant see them listed on CZP.
I am just curious also in regards to HIDs mine are 8000K and tend to flicker a lot time of the time, everything has been installed correctly but just can't figure out why it happens at random times. I also noticed recently putting them in if I put the car into P the engine goes up to 2000 revs. Quite alarming - with the stock lights in the normal 1000 revs in park.
Ok. All easy stuff. As suggested cut off the silicone weather seal from the hid globe leads. Then take each hid globe lead terminal and push through the center of the oem weather seal. This will allow you to reinstall the oem seal and fit perfectly. Fitment can be fiddly but doable. Sometimes the wire retainers get all bent out of whack as some clowns have issues clipping it back in and bend them. So resolve that if needed but you should be able to fit the bulb snuggly. Now adjustment can be hard as when you look at the oem globe next to the hid globe. You'll notice the element in the oem globe is closer to the base when compared to where the hid globe emits light from. This means when inserted into the light assembly the reflector is slightly out of "tune". The focal reflective point has changed. So you end up with a wider beam spread but also taller beam output. Hence people coming the other way get shitty as you're in their face with the light. You really need to adjust this best you can. Using the tamiya gears is the best method for fudged oem adjusters. For the issue with having to turn them on a few times. That's a ballast issue. The capacitors are discharging internally and need a few tries to be able to supply the required voltage to run the globe. You'll probably find listening to the hid ballast box the squeal will be more noticeable. This squeal is the capacitors constantly being charged. Higher the frequency the more it's being charged. And this is happening due to a slight failure with the cap. One day it will just burn out and your light won't work. That should answer the other guy with the 8k light issue too. Get new ballasts and you should be good to go again. For a while. Lol. Cheap kits are cheap for a reason. We have to turn ours on and off a few times, sometimes. Also the idle issue. Check the plug connected to the idle valve. Probably dodgy and the car isn't idling down when in park. With the oem globes there is more drain on the electrical circuit and it was bandaiding the problem. Hid kits use less current and you're now getting more usable power at the idle valve. Which is having issues due to the dodgy plug. Give the plug a wiggle and or a proper service. Hope that answers a few q's.
agree with above.... Here are a few links to help you along the way? http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.346 Main bean and high beam left/right adjustment are the ones that usually break. http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.26 Tamiya kit is 50602 but it?s best to disassemble the headlight units to replace them as they are tight fit and the housing can be damaged if the shaft isn?t supported (I know, and I was being careful) ? also give you a change to do a proper clean of the lights. http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_images/H-L_Disassembly.pdf and I ran a relay for my HID?s to take power direct from the battery? made mine more stable and last longer.
flickering is cheap ballast/ ballast issue or poor grounding common link between both (if any) is ground - so check your ground
lol... let the internet search engines be your friend.... or we could continue to spoon feed you.. try ebay.... http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...3&_nkw=Tamiya+50602&_sacat=See-All-Categories
