i have seen pictures arround of the hicas delete and cutting the banjo bolt and attaching to a n/a power steer res. just curious why can u not use a tt res and do the same thing, something like this cut red/ join yellows with hose and clamps http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/818/hicas.png/
rough as... 1. Remove TT diff/subframe and replace with a NA 2. Remove all the Hicas lines, solenoid, 3. De-vein the rear section of the TT pump, reassemble and block the outlet of the rear chamber. 4. Us a NA resevoir
not realy what i was after, wanted to know why people swap out the na res instead of just cutting the banjo and putting it into the tt res
well its neater, there is no re routing, looks more professional, na res are cheap 2nd hand.. so why not
well and truely to much work for me to make it look neater. figured instead of putting a banjo to banjo just for the thing to go right back to the res as per a standard hicas delete why could i not cut the top of the banjo of and go right back into the res. would look tidy and a hell of a lot less work
There is a hicas delete and a hicas DELETE Both will work to a degree just the DELETE is more professional and neat
I just connected the 2 HICAS hard-pipes together above the Diff. That way, if anybody wants to revert back to HICAS at some later time, they only need to replace the rear HICAS Steering Rack and connect the pipes. It doesn't take any longer to do it this way(and it certainly works without any downside).:zlove::br:
i would love to do a full delete trust me. 2nd year apprentice on 550$ a week living out of home working 45 hours a week makes it hard, just want to have the hicas deleted for the moment as its leaking from the rear this seems the best way out for me
You don't need to do any of that. Get the kit from Z1 it connects the hose back into the power steering res, leaving the long hoses where they are only they aren't attached to anything on either end. I did this, easy as. No de-vaining anything either. If you haven't already purchased a lockout bar, now is a good time to grab the Z1 kit with it.
yeah i have a kit like that and will be doing it this weekend, but what i was getting at is have a look at where the hose runs after u join it, right back to the res. can i just fit cut the end of the bottom banjo off and use hose to connect it to the res, so its just 1 hose running to the res without the joiner and banjos
Will depend on the hose diameter once you cutoff the banjo at the crimp connector, and if the hose is long enough to reach? Also I don't know that you will be able to effectively 'clamp' that type of hose?
there is a article in the tech section that says to cut the banjo and hose clamp it on / http://tech.aus300zx.com/ / if u look at the top hose it already looks like the top one is hose clamped to the other side of the banjo will, once the hicas kit arived i will try this and post results. thanks to all for info
I know how you feel, 2nd year apprentice on $620 a week paying 380 a week in rent 3 kids and a wife who is too sick to work, thats why the plates just got handed in on my Z rather than it going over the pits.
Yeah but the top hose is a different type of hose. I think you'll find the bottom hose is too 'hard' to clamp effectively with a screw type clamp. I'm guessing though going on the top hose that it's not high pressure so you may get away with it, risk is that it will leak. Will also depend on the internal diameter of both hoses, if the bottom (banjo) hose has a larger internal diameter it will not work. You won't be able to clamp it tight enough.
shane i will not be cutting the hard pipe, just the O of the banjo so it is a small bit of metal with the internal hole, then useing some "soft" power steer hose and clamping it onto the cut banjo line
actually I am retraining, I am a plumber/gas fitter by trade but that was never something I wanted to do - just ended up doing it so now I am learning to be a panel beater. and loving every moment of it.
