ok heres the thing , i have an electric power steering out of a ts holden astra ( 1998 to 2004 ) i have powered it up and is working properly ( about 6 months now ) now i want to connect it to my ecu so it can cut out over 40 50 ? k,s . In the elec pump we have a main + and a - plus another 3 , blue , black and a brown that i would assume go to the ecu of the astra , for control . ( what i have done in order to make this pump to work was just connect all 3 wires together so yeah its running , but not the correct way ) i have been looking up on the net to find out what those 3 wires are but i cant find anything on it so i dont know what is what . i would like some help from you guys to look up where these wires go, as ive had no luck read on for step 2 this is the oil pressure switch on the 300zx , its on the rack ( as you know ) this cuts out some the oil feed as we go over 40 50? ks so this hole system can be eliminated once ive sorted out where these 3 wires go. so at the end of the day what im asking is for help to find out what and where those wires go , and what one would go on our ecu in order go to it to cut out 40 50 ? ks and on what pin on the 300zx ecu to control this pump ? ( NOTE if i have said anything that is not correct please tell me ) guys thanks in advance
hmm, I'll be planning to go down this path also, but do you really want it to completely cutout at 40/50ks? Why not just leave the zed oil restrictor in place?
Well i guess we can play with the boost solenoid , all the wiring on my car has been taken out , in order to clean up all the wiring , so now we really have to start from scratch . the vct is being used . the boost is not . aux fan is not ATM but will be running the thermo fan as far as the boost soleniod goes i would like to use it , ( talk to me ) keep in mind all the wiring has been taken out
well you dont need it there once the pump is working correctly ( via ecu ) but it seem as eric said that we can do it that way. . and would i like to be 100% of at those speed ,well yes you dont need it to run anything over those speeds, its fine , ( it will no be 100% of but really low ) this is why i would like it to be controlled via ecu .
eric what do i do with the brown and black , i would say the brown would be maybe power ? and the black an earth ?
Thank you Eric. As far a the solenoid goes. I want to pull it out all together and I'm going to plate it up. I'll have a better look at it when I pull it out. That's step 2 after I get this jaycar system connected and working.
If you set it up so the pump turns off at a given speed the car will be a pain in the ass to drive, what say you set it at 60kph as an example, Midway through a hard turn you go from 59kph to 60 and the pump turns off = suddenly far more input is required on the wheel. It's going to drive like a sack of crap. You need to establish what the wires on the pump are and what inputs they require to get various outputs from the pump motor, do they use PWM or do they use variable voltage? The stock power steering control unit on the Z32 uses variable voltage to control the oil control valve on the rack doesn't it? I would assume it increases voltage to reduce assistance (valve will open further with more voltage) so this will be useless to you as it works in reverse to what you want. Use a signal from the speedo drive as suggested BUT convert it to the signal that is required to drive the power steering pump motor, there are units that you can buy, there are components that you can buy and build your own circuit etc. You need to know what inputs those speed control wires on the pump require OR you need to run the pump via a speed control unit that you can control.
From the IPRA link; 99 model (the left pic) Red 10mm Battery Tan 10mm Ground Black .75mm 12V Ign Blue/White .75mm 12V Running Alt,Check light (or oil p.s) 00 model (the right pic) same wiring but Brown/white? .75mm diagnostic link for system check Hope that helps! General consensus from these guys is connect + & -, and IGN or a toggle switch, and ignore the rest. Also if as per a2zed's post in the following thread the stock valve has lag than that's good enough reason to remove this. http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319343 I'm still wondering why you want to control the speed of the pump though. Are you finding it too light over 50kphs? Seems like a lot of over complication and a lot more to go wrong?
a2zed, are you running yours with a controller on the pump? And assuming from your other post that you have removed the valve solenoid from the steering rack? How do you find it at different speeds? Including high speed cornering?
When you got around corners at 150ks on the track it can get little light. You really need it firm and not to light.
Is that with the existing solenoid valve still connected? So once you remove this I guess it will be lighter again? Thing is if you go down the path of a controller for the pump, you'll need to either have it switch off at say 40kph (a speed you will never see on the track) or run a variable controller that you would then need to tune. Last thing you would want on the track is the power steering cutting out mid way through a low speed corner. So, why not just run a toggle switch Edit, this was reply to badxtc
Sure no problem. Those speed I said were just what I tho the stock system turns it of so all good. 10 20ks is very good as it will not cut on or of. On the track. So what are the suggestions I should do. ? ( 10. 20 ks is good for me )
Personally I like to keep things simple. Toggle switch as you leave the pits Also you then can turn it off when working on the car, idling down, etc.
sorry a2zed, that was more a suggestion for badxtc, I got the impression his is more track focused, agree for a street car you would want it automatic. Mine will be toggle switch Also I like the idea of using the HICAS pipes to mount this in the rear. Has any done this?
In a non variable assisted rack, full assistance pressure is available to the rack aqt all times. Assistance is fine at park and slower speeds but reduces steering "feel" and feedback from the road as speed rises. The steering becomes very light and seems "disconnected" from the road and is unnerving as speed increases. The ECU controls PS effort as a function of roadspeed. Higher the roadspeed, the less assistance is needed or wanted. As the speed increases, the ecu applies a PWM output to that valve on the steering rack and reduces line pressure thereby reducing assistance. The Zed steering is quite finely calibrated or "tuned" from factory and by all accounts is superior to most of its contemporaries with regards to a smooth transition from slow speed assistance to high speed directness. UNLESS something is faulty in either the rack, the valve solenoid or the wiring. I know my own Zed steers very well for a power assist setup with unnoticeable tgransition from slow assisted to reduced assist at speed (245 x 45 x 17" fronts on 8" rims) and i could not see in a million years why anybody would see the need to either modify it or remove it altogether other than for hybrid engine swaps where the donor engines pump cannot be easily utillised. Now, switching power in and out on a track only car??? What are you? A girl?? need assistance to come into the pits???? Be a man and swing on the wheel and remove all that extra rubbish from the car and save "X" kilos in weight. However, no PS in a race car with large wheels is an exercise in futility and purely the domain of stubborn he-men who eat raw meat for breakfast and pick their teeth with railways sleepers!!!!! In fact I believe PS is pretty much a MUST on any saloon car above 650Kg. Jeez, i race a 500kilo (combined) Formula Vee with skinny 15" front tyres and even THAT results in major fatigue after 10 laps.......... Id confidently predict unless your a masochist, or possibly just plain foolish then youd give up after a 5 lap sprint and hit the switch!!! THEN youd be asking urself why on earth you removed ANYTHING of the stock system in favour of "Armstrong" power steering. Racing a car is hard enough without the need for a 3 foot diameter steering wheel to lever on after you get tired. Sheesh! Now, I could think of nothing worse that having my steering effort suddenly change from absolutely nothing to totally unassisted at some ambiguous road speed and this is what your going to get with your setup and a changeover switch. Take the roadspeed changeover out and your steering will be full power assisted at up to and beyond "go to jail" speeds which is downright dangerous with the very fast and direct Zed steering. Id personally calibrate mine to reduce overall effort at all but parking speeds but thats just a very picky personal thing. If the stock system was fitted and working then altering it in this way with the electric pump is, IMHO a lot of unnecessary work and just a "change for changes sake" and will yield nothing positive at all. PS pumps, brackets, pipes and hoses are available in legions on this forum and Id confidently predict the vast majority of wrecked Zeds on this forum would have these parts eventually thrown in the bin. Rarely would pump delivery pressure be controlled by the electric motor speed alone. In fact Id say it would NEVER be done in this instance. "IF" any of the electric pumps control delivery pressure internally, then it would be in the exact same manner as what we have now stock by controlling a simple solenoid valve with an ecu generated PWM signal and limiting pressure off BEFORE the fluid gets to the rack. Otherwise there would be a solenoid valve out on the rack somewhere on the Astra. These pumps would have a couple of extra wires again on top of what you have to control even a simple 2 wire solenoid valve. E
Thanks a2zed, I'm planning to go have a chat with John sometime in the new year. Based on this thread it sounds like I won't need to use it out on track, so a bit of lag won't be an issue around the pits. All subject to testing though. Very useful thread, thanks guys
