Yes, it was showing error code 13. Strange, maybe it was because earlier in the week I cleaned the plug and connector. Either way, took it off and reconnected and code 55 now. I tried starting the car again & it ran the longest it has ran since the problem occurred some three weeks ago. It almost sounds like it is starved of fuel. It run very roughly for about 5 or more seconds (no smell of fuel from exhaust). My gut feeling is the regulator is fooked. There is a slight whiff of fuel from the regulator area after trying to start.
Pull the coilpacks out with plugs. Connect the coilpacks and plugs and arrange them so they can spark on plenum or similar. Now pull the cas off and turn by hand slowly, listen for injector firing and look for spark corresponding to correct injector. This will ensure u have fuel and spark in the right sequence.
Cause found: It has been bitter sweet, but I'm happy to announce I've found the issue. Can't believe it myself, but it is dodgy wiring to the CTS that has been causing me all this grief. Since the initial non-start, there were no faults. But of late, the car had been showing code 13 if left sitting dormant few days. The break in the signal is near the plug, as when wobbling it while car was running the AUX fan came on and car stalled again. Big thanks to all who have helped with suggestions etc... I would like to specially thank Eric (drz400y) for putting up with me on MSN. Huge thanks to Chris (chrispy) who posted me a fuel reg & damper to swap out. Words can't explain how appreciative I am (even though they weren't needed in the end), thanks again
I spoke too soon. After cutting back the wire installation to the CTS I found a break in one of the wires. I fixed it all up & took the Z for a test drive. Everything was fine. Now this morning it won't start again.
Are you getting a CTS error code? Try measuring the resistance between the CTS plug and the ECU plug for each of the wires. Should be very close to 0 ohm. Did you get that fuel pressure gauge in? Tried the new reg yet?
Check for a CAS error code (code 11). Moving the wiring loom for the CTS may have disturbed the CAS wiring plug. It doesn't take much to slightly dislodge it off the CAS.
My coolant temp sensor & temp dash sensor have been re-routed, Mark. I wasn't in the area of the CAS. There are no faults again. Car will crank over, just won't fire. Just like initially. I removed the fuel lines just then without depressurising the system & there was no pressure what so ever... I bought myself a fuel pressure gauge, but struggling to find a suitable T piece. So at this point in time, it seems it is no receiving significant fuel.
Not sure if anyone sugessted this, but have you tried jumping your ignition coil relay. I've done this on my zed and another one which has the same symptoms as yours and jumping the relay got it started.
Update: Fuel regulator & damper were changed over. It seemed to have fixed the problem & car was running well. Sadly, again it wasn't the case. Though the car does seem to start more often than not, it doesn't start easily... & this morning it started, ran rough then conked out & now won't start again. I installed a fuel pressure gauge & fuel system is a tad over 40psi. So fuel issue can safely be eliminated now. I have noticed a loud buzzing noise when the ignition is on. The noise is coming from where the starter motor bolts to the auto trans. It only buzzes when the throttle is opening & changes pitch when moving throttle. I have no idea what it is, or what it could be, or even if it is related to the problem. When the car does start, I remember turning it off and checking for the noise & it wasn't happening. So there is a chance that there might be a short or something that is taking away the spark. Any logical theories out there?
Pull the slush box out & do the manual conversion then see if she starts :rofl: you are going to do it anyway & chances are you may stumble across the gremlin causing all this grief while you are at it Check the plug is in the ECU correctly.
Move to QLD, it will be fixed within minutes! On a serious note, I feel sorry for the walls in your house and your forehead.
Update: Found out what the buzzing noise is. While holding the throttle open from the engine bay & the buzzing was present I unplugged the big orange auto trans plug closest to the 1/4 guard (near HICAS solenoid). The second I unplugged it, the buzzing stopped. Still have no idea what this means, but at least now I know where the sound is coming from. Too true, r33K... on both accounts!
What hope do we mere mortals have?? When someone who has done so much work on their car falls prey to this 'issue' W ever TF it is .. I've read this and been watching 'SIM' progress for years. These issues are well documented and so costly re time and effort ..its a wonder we still love the Z so much when you read this kind of problem .. I hope you can find the problem soon ...its running out of places to hide by the looks of what has been done already. Just imagine the cost to (us) common or garden Zedder if it was at the local mechanics? Good Luck .. we wait with baited breath. Please post the outcome soon Coolum
Update: Still no closer to finding the cause of my issues. This morning it started as if there was never a problem. Then this afternoon, she doesn't want to start again. I jumped the the coil ign relay, but that made no difference. I finally got it to start again after lots of cranking. I disconnected the plug to the auto trans that is related to the buzz, just to see what would happen, which was nothing at all. Does anyone have a spare auto TT ECU I could borrow (even better if it's socketed). I'm really running out of ideas here!!! Thanks for the kind words, coolum. They put a smile on my face (which is very rare at the moment)
