Hey all I notice that the turbo actuator ( a garret 12psi super actuator) just hits on the oil tree branch, I filed the tree down as much as possible without compromising the integrity, but I still need another mm or two for clearance. I loosened that actuator bracket to see if it would give any extra space but it did not help any...... Wondering what others do or have done in this case....... I think my only option is to bend the actuator/ actuator arm to clear it then recalibrate them......... Thoughts...ideas...suggestions are welcome Regards Jamie :zlove:
My 28R kit came with a pre-bent actuator shaft. If there's enough adjustment available in the tip then yes, bend it and readjust the preload to suit.
Do you know what fitting kit they're using? You could probably re-clock the compressor housing to lift the arm up a bit but you'll need to re-set the tension on the actuator arm too to make it doesn't over-boost on you.
Not sure of the kit - but its all garret parts I had pre bent actuator shafts - so I figured yours must have been more bent than mine Tight fit - actuator wanted to hit the bracket or oil tree In the end I bent the actuator tab / filed the oil tree down / moved the bracket closer by grinding the locating holes and straightened the actuator adjustment shaft - Finally it fits now..........with clearance on everything Just need to calibrate them ...on the downhill run now..... Cheers anyway guys Regards JC
On a sidenote on calibrating.. I adjusted mine on the "bench" as good as i could before i dropped the motor in but when i ran it one of the sides was .4/5 leaner than the other side on full boost. Had to thighten one of the actuators 2.5 extra turns to reel in the difference. Just shows another of the benefits of running two widebands..
Rotate the housing to the right place and they fit fine. I hope you synced the actuators up on the bench with a compressor before you fitted the turbos.
Cannot The actuator is almost hitting the manifold/ the oil tree and the engine mounts, so there is/was no way I can/could rotate the housing without resitting the actuator - sort of defeats the purpose to rotate the housing and still have the actuator in the same location . Why sync them on the bench when you can do it fitted to the engine?? What's the difference?
The motors on an engine stand - I figure if you hit the actuator accidently the settings could change - hence it's better if they are calibrated once on the manifold rather than a test bench I feel relieved I haven't missed something here
I just did mine today on a stand and the driver's side (right side) is a PITA with turbo attached to engine. Much easier to do while off but if you'd rather mount it first, it can be done. Just takes more fiddling.
Doesn't look like too much of a problem to do - I have the room to swing a spanner in there - I have had to modify so many parts for this to happen that this is the least of my problems! Just spent an hour getting a single bolt in - on the compressor 90 degree outlet housing inner bolt- the manifold is just so oversized it ain't funny and its why I have had to do so many mods already Downhill run now - compressor is about to fire up - then I can modify the turbo heat shields to fit the actuators - then I'll confirm the settings once again and make sure the actuators don't catch on them at the same time (not much room left for the shields with less than 1cm of room around them- another PITA job I feel - owning a Z is not all fun! :rofl: ) Cheers guys.... Jamie Jamie
I had the manifolds and dumps ceramic coated and getting rid of heat shields all together. they interfere with turbos and the ash spec intakes. since engine is out consider doing that too. yes it's more work and money...
Thought about that but the nearest place that could do it was Brisbane. Will have to be next time....I am having Z withdrawals and want it back on the road! Rego inspection is due soon, so don't want to risk ending up blue slipping it by delaying anymore I will be able to fit the turbo wrap shields on o.k., it will just take a bit of time and fiddling getting them around the actuators (will use metal ties to make sure its kept in close near them) Do you reckon the ceramic coating will eliminate the heat soak from the manifold to the turbo's (since most use metal gaskets and the studs can conduct) - would definitely like to do the Z1 dumps but I guess can do that anytime since I can get at them in situ later on JC
Unreal............ Just noticed the turbo inlet pipe is now hitting the actuator and it won't bolt on (lucky I checked it now.....) So the Actuator lever is now up against the turbo housing, the rod is now up against the oil tree and the bracket itself, the actuator is now against the engine mount and now the inlet turbo pipe wont bolt on :rofl: I get the impression the newer garret super actuators are larger than the previous actuators - hence all the issues .........the grinder will be out again tomorrow........ BLOODY UNREAL!!!!!!
Last I looked you CANT keep an eye on Both actuators when there is one on each side of the engine. Setting them off engine is way easier and more accurate.
Cheers tekky I see what you were saying..... I can actually see them fine........I guess side by side would be easier but it's not required given I can still see them both clearly... I was going to calibrate with a regulator and some ticker paper to confirm they both open at the same time just to make sure as accuracy is my priority. (independently then combined to confirm) I just figure that knocking them on the install could change the value and given the clearances - will opt for on engine calibration..... If I had more room and everything wasn't such a tight fit then I would do it on the test bench as you suggest - but accuracy on engine is my first priority and I need to check actuation on engine anyway, so will do both at once Its easier to test on bench for sure - but in situ is more accurate I reckon Cheers for the reply tekky Jamie
Are these turbos off the shelf or bought as a z32 kit? Last I remember the actuator and brackets are slightly different for the z32 kits , as in bracket and shaft angles. .might be your problem . GCG sells the actuator/bracket kits if needed. .
I think your right????..makes sense given previous installations claim few issues Given its all Garret components leaves me to think it's an off shelf (new but purchased off forum) Figure kits would still be using the HKS / or other actuators etc...given the previous Garret actuators weren't much chop. Don't think a GCG bracket would help without replacing the actuator complete. Had a look at GCG and could not find anything there suitable to replace with? The size of the super Garret actuators appears to be the overall problem here and not so much the bracket or rod, certainly much larger than stock and apparently larger than the previous garret actuators I figure the grinder will sort things out by shaving the turbo outlet flange a few mm - it should be right then Having 12 PSI as the minimum setting is the downside with these ones other than the size of the actuators JC
